Brake Bleeders?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 119
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From: New Hampshire USA
Brake Bleeders?
Had to remove the hydraulic brake cylinder inthe rear drum, any suggestions or advice on bleeding the brakes during reinstallation. Not looking to invest a bunch of money, just looking for tips or feedback on the inexpensive brake bleeders out there.
Thanks
Biscuit
Thanks
Biscuit
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 586
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From: Tottenham Ontario Canada
Brake Bleeders?
I have tried using the cheap one-man brake bleeders & I found they really don't work all that well.
Here's the method I use now - all it takes is one person and one length of vinyl tubing.
When you open the bleeder screw, just crack them open. Put on the tube, drop it into a jar & you're off. If the brake pedal is firm, but sinks slowly to the floor, the bleeder screws are open just the right amount. When the pedal gets to the floor, release it. The master cylinder will refill from the reservoir rather than sucking in past the bleeder screw, because it's less restrictive.
Keep topping up the reservoir & pumping until the fluid flows clean, tighten up the bleeders & you're done.
Cheers,
Eric
Here's the method I use now - all it takes is one person and one length of vinyl tubing.
When you open the bleeder screw, just crack them open. Put on the tube, drop it into a jar & you're off. If the brake pedal is firm, but sinks slowly to the floor, the bleeder screws are open just the right amount. When the pedal gets to the floor, release it. The master cylinder will refill from the reservoir rather than sucking in past the bleeder screw, because it's less restrictive.
Keep topping up the reservoir & pumping until the fluid flows clean, tighten up the bleeders & you're done.
Cheers,
Eric
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 422
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From: Heart Of Dixie
Brake Bleeders?
Just make sure to fill the jar with some brake fluid first so it wont suck air back in. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder then work towards the closest. Good Luck and Have Fun!
West
West
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,214
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Brake Bleeders?
If you're using the pedal, just use light to moderate pressure to keep from setting the pressure differential light. Don't push hard at the bottom of the stroke unless you've already turned the light on and you have the other side open trying to move the switch the other way.
Hope this makes sense.
Greg
Hope this makes sense.
Greg
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Harrison Hot Springs Cana
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
Brake Bleeders?
I have mity vac, and it never worked real well for me. Always seemed to pull air in past the threads of the bleeder screw. I even tried teflon tape, and had no more success. Is there a trick I missed? I ended up cracking the bleeder, hopping in the cab, pushing down the pedal and holding it with a piece of 2X4 braced against the seat, hopping out and closing the bleeder. etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc ... you get the picture.
If I could make the mity vac work, I'd be SOOOO pleased.....
tom
If I could make the mity vac work, I'd be SOOOO pleased.....
tom
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Joe Kucinski
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From: Albuquerque
Brake Bleeders?
The Miti Vac will pull air from the bleeder screws threads but it really doesn't matter as long as you get good fluid flow and retighten the screw while you still have vacuum on it.
I have seen replacement screws that have a check valve in them for one man bleeding but have not tried them.
I have seen replacement screws that have a check valve in them for one man bleeding but have not tried them.
New User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 22
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From: Harrison Hot Springs Cana
Brake Bleeders?
If your hose is in good shape, it will suck onto the bleeder screw with the vacuum. Those bubbles you see aren't actually air ecsaping, they are just the effect the vacuum has on the fluid. I use a box end wrench, crack the line so I don't have to struggle with it, retighten it & leave the wrench on & slip the hose over top. Then I build some vacuum, crack the line for a while, tighten & repeat. Be sure your bleeder isnt plugged with dirt! and leave the cap off the master cyl.
New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 5
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Brake Bleeders?
Works better than the vacuum bleeders in my experience.
See http://www.motiveproducts.com Works pretty well. Hook it up to the reservoir. Pump it up to pressurize. Go around and crack each valve. Done deal. You can use as a bleeder and/or do a complete flush.
Also some similar tools that run from a compressor, but more expensive.
See http://www.motiveproducts.com Works pretty well. Hook it up to the reservoir. Pump it up to pressurize. Go around and crack each valve. Done deal. You can use as a bleeder and/or do a complete flush.
Also some similar tools that run from a compressor, but more expensive.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 271
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From: La Canada, CA
Brake Bleeders?
I've found the check valve bleeder screws work better than my Mity Vac for one man bleeding. I purchased the bleeders screw thru Summit. But I've also seen them on the shelf at Kragen's Auto parts.
New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2
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Brake Bleeders?
This is my first post, so I don't know if I'm supposed to
introduce myself or just jump in, but here goes:
I too bought the Mity Vac, but
was disappointed that it took so much squeezing to
generate enough vacuum just to bleed one wheel
cylinder/caliper. Then it occured to me that I have a
460CI vacuum pump under the hood! I bought several
feet of vacuum hose (I bought it pretty cheap by the foot
at Lowes), connected one end to manifold
vacuum, the other end to the bleeder with the
Mity Vac resevoir in between. After starting the truck,
I crack the bleeder and then just monitor the fluid levels
in the Mity Vac bottle and the master cylinder (to make sure
it doesn't run dry) and in about 15 minutes, I can thoroughly bleed all four corners with no effort. I
usually pump two Mity Vac bottles (4 ounces?) through each
corner and it's easy to see when the old/dirty fluid is gone and
new fluid is coming through. It works well on stubborn air bubbles since you can easily pump over a quart of fluid
through the entire system in a short time.
Hope that helps,
Vince
introduce myself or just jump in, but here goes:
I too bought the Mity Vac, but
was disappointed that it took so much squeezing to
generate enough vacuum just to bleed one wheel
cylinder/caliper. Then it occured to me that I have a
460CI vacuum pump under the hood! I bought several
feet of vacuum hose (I bought it pretty cheap by the foot
at Lowes), connected one end to manifold
vacuum, the other end to the bleeder with the
Mity Vac resevoir in between. After starting the truck,
I crack the bleeder and then just monitor the fluid levels
in the Mity Vac bottle and the master cylinder (to make sure
it doesn't run dry) and in about 15 minutes, I can thoroughly bleed all four corners with no effort. I
usually pump two Mity Vac bottles (4 ounces?) through each
corner and it's easy to see when the old/dirty fluid is gone and
new fluid is coming through. It works well on stubborn air bubbles since you can easily pump over a quart of fluid
through the entire system in a short time.
Hope that helps,
Vince