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I've had these "Line-of-Fire" style LED strips laying around for a few years, so I decided to do something with them. I studied the circuit board, and decided I could cut them in half, and wire them back together. Also, when cut in half, they are almost the same length as the taillight. Here is a shot of what I started with, compared to how it fits in the taillight housing.
Here's a closeup of the wiring reconnecting the two halves.
Here's a shot of it lit up, with the lens back on. The LED's are red also.
I plan on adding some sort of divider between the strips and the backup light area. I'd also like to wire them to an old 1157 bulb base so they plug in, instead of splicing into the wiring.
Looks good. Eventually I'll upgrade to led tail lights as well really just waiting to buy the electronic blinker boxes. So I don't have super fast blinkers.
I bought some 39 teardrop led's for my flareside and mounted them flush . After 1 week they quit flashing , auto parts store gave me some electronic flashers and no problems since , also need to replace hazard with same . Just a heads up if your turn signals stop working in the future , great job on your lights !!!
did the same with my 78 just as bright and a whole lot more reliable i picked up 2 2"x6" oval red led tailights from a truck/trailer place [all ready a complete sealed unit] cut out the back to fit,siloconed to seal wired up the included pig tail i now have a sealed dot approved tailights will last the life of the truck + more at a rateing of 10.000 hrs i would like to see if the clear lights would be any brighter note,these fit inside the upper light i still have my backup lights seperate i used these after trieing a few of the 1157 leds but wasnt happy with the results [to dim,not bright enough for the day time with brake lights]
I got the strips on ebay around ten years ago, so sorry, can't make anymore. I had them mounted in the rear window of my S-10's camper shell. I've already anticipated the electronic flasher, just haven't bought one yet. Now I need to get busy on the other side!
The previous owner of my truck installed LED tail lights in the truck. When I was looking at buying the truck, he told me that the cruise control did not work. Later, when I bought the truck from him, he told me that he and a friend had worked on the truck and they got the cruise control working again. He removed the LED tail lights and put the original light bulbs in, and that allowed the cruise to work again. He told me that LED's, even when they are not on, draw a small amount of current. Because of that current, the cruise control thought that the brake lights were on, which prevented the cruise from engaging.
Andy
360 thats funny never had that problem with both my trucks and they both have cruise the thing i like about the 2x6 truck lights is they already have the resister built in so they work with the stock flasher
The previous owner of my truck installed LED tail lights in the truck. When I was looking at buying the truck, he told me that the cruise control did not work. Later, when I bought the truck from him, he told me that he and a friend had worked on the truck and they got the cruise control working again. He removed the LED tail lights and put the original light bulbs in, and that allowed the cruise to work again. He told me that LED's, even when they are not on, draw a small amount of current. Because of that current, the cruise control thought that the brake lights were on, which prevented the cruise from engaging.
Andy
How can they draw power when theres no power being supplied to them?
Those strips would be fairly easy to make. Radio Shack sells copper clad circuit boards and etchant. You just use a paint pen to draw where you want the copper, leave the board in the etching solution for 15 minutes, then pull it out when theres no more visible coper. Just pour some thinner on the board to remove then paint, drill holes for components, and solder. Nothing to it.
How can they draw power when theres no power being supplied to them?
They can't. If the brake light switch is open and there is no power applied to the brake lights, it's impossible for them to draw current - LED or no LED. There must have been something else going on in this case.
The only kind of "leakage current" that's generally associated with LEDs, or any diodes for that matter, is reverse leakage current - meaning when you apply power the opposite direction. It shouldn't conduct at all, but in practice it conducts a little bit. But that doesn't apply here. If there's no power source, there's no current.
Originally Posted by devino246
Those strips would be fairly easy to make. Radio Shack sells copper clad circuit boards and etchant. You just use a paint pen to draw where you want the copper, leave the board in the etching solution for 15 minutes, then pull it out when theres no more visible coper. Just pour some thinner on the board to remove then paint, drill holes for components, and solder. Nothing to it.
It's even easier than that, actually - Radio Shack sells perf-board with 0.1-inch spaced copper-plated through-holes; you'd simply bridge the connections you want in between with solder. It doesn't look as pretty as an etched board, but no one would know the difference since it's behind the lens.
Hey Guys... I just got back from Harbor Freight and noticed they sell a 9-inch red LED strip for $10. It's rated for 12 VDC too.. Here's the link: 9" LED Red Strip Lamp
I figure two strips in each tail lamp can do the job. I've got a 73 so my lenses are separate compared to yall with the single housings. Anyhoot, have at it and post up some pics if ya take this route.