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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

oK, I'm having major issues today. I think I have a front wheel bearing going out. I have grinding (sounds like metal on metal) in the passenger side front wheel. I have removed the front wheel, brake caliper, and the 4wd hub (auto lock). Now I need to removed the locking nut. I have read several of the posts on wheel bearings, and they all talk about a 4 pronged removal tool. Mine only has 1 notch. Any ideas what the difference is in mine versus everyone elses. This is my daily driver and I have to work tomorrow. Please help me!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Pretty sure its 2 3/4". Should be like an OTC 1923.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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It appears there is a retainer ring that I can't get off.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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Here is a diagram. Which part are referring to.


Name:  97autohub.jpg
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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have yet to see a truck with auto-locking hubs use the 4 prong nut setup. should be this one if i can remember right
KD Tools 2440 - Spindle Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
should be one lock ring holding the hub in the rotor, then another on the outer axle shaft along with a few washers on top of the nut
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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Part #7 that Pete showed has a tab that goes into the slot you are mentioning. Remove that first, then use the socket like mentioned above.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Ok, looking at the diagram, part #7 is what I'm having trouble with. Problem is that the ring is not there, just the part that fits in the groove. I havve tried pulling the tab out but so far haven't had any luck. The 4 pronged socket is what the guy at Oreillys said that I needed. Thanks for all the input, and especially thank you for the diagram. Now that I know what part it is that I'm trying to get out, it should be a little easier. FYI, it looks like the ring on part 7 has been broken off sometime in the past.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:36 AM
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Thanks a million for the diagram. After looking at the diagram and examining my hubs, I found that there are a few parts missing. This just gives me the incentive to go ahead and replace the auto locks with manual. The diagram was also a temendous help in removing and replacing everything after the wheel bearings. The inner bearing on the passenger side was siezed to the spindle. Once i heated heated it up, I was able to remove everything. I cleaned and examined the spindle, and luckily there was no damage. 2.5 hours to replace passenger side wheel bearings. Went ahead and replaced both sides while I had it up on stands. Driver side took about 30 minutes. This website has saved me a fortune so far on repairs. Thanks alot and keep up the good work.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mdt1992
have yet to see a truck with auto-locking hubs use the 4 prong nut setup. should be this one if i can remember right
KD Tools 2440 - Spindle Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
should be one lock ring holding the hub in the rotor, then another on the outer axle shaft along with a few washers on top of the nut
Thanks for the info, unfortunately that was not the correct one, wouldn't fit inside the hub. Four spindle sockets later, finally found the right one. What a difference the right tools makes.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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Sometimes the lock ring with the holes on it that is on in front of the spindle nuts is a pain to get off and you gotta use a drift and tap it a few times to break it loose.

If you dont have that in there, you need to get the auto to manual spindle nut kit.
Lots of people just slam the lockers in and dont do the spindle nuts. which can lead to the problem your having.

I mighta missread this, but I see you got it off.

there are 2 different spindle sockets for our trucks as well which is the even more Pita part.
 
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