Any suggestions for a quality pre-92 pump with a warranty that won't rape my wallet? I already have a $300 pile of junk metal in my truck, so money is getting real tight.
This will be the tird time my old IP has been installed in my truck. First time with the new injectors so that will be interesting.

 

Are you going to try and let them make it right? That is our next step, just need to put my old pump back in again and get the truck running for transportation

They have another pump below that is for auto transmission, maybe we should give that one a whirl?

Diesel Injection Pump Ford 7.3 Diesel 1988-1990 | eBay

 

yeah.this should narrow things down right here.
doing this tomorrow?
if she doesn't want to start when hot,that's a pretty good give away the ip has issues.
the smoke and your truck shaking made me think injectors.who knows we may find out your luck is really just this bad,that you managed to find bad injectors and a bad ip lmao.

 

Hey guys how bout this one: Diesel Care Inc

I talked to these guys on the phone, seemed like pretty good folks to deal with.

 

LSO, let's hear about the IP your mom was able to order for you. I hear you have had good results with it. There is a local Diesel shop here that I will call tomorrow and see what they are charging for IPs. They are Able Fuel Injection services in Lewisville, TX. Next door to me.

I'm going to start removing the old IP and lines bar the fact it is a quarter past ten and dark out but I have been doing this for the last three months, so old hat for me. Who needs light when you can overhaul a 7.3 IDI just by feel? I should sell my services, like a pimp!

P.S. I'm diggin' that straight pipe. She's staying on there! Chug-a-lug-lug *****'s. If you don't like it, move away! I think if I tried, I could blow a smart car or Prius off the road with just exhaust gasses! I think I ran over a smart car not long ago. I heard this "THUMP" sound and I saw some plastic pieces in the rear-view but I ain't sure, maybe it was road trash. Well, it's road trash now, either way!

 

Well, it's off and in the kitchen. I'll swap the lines tonight or tomorrow morning.

 

OK. I have everything back on and she is running. I put the meter on it and finally got a reading after some fighting with the RPM probe. It was at -1, then .1, then 1, now 2.5 and I needed to come in to cool off. Nothing like a 100+ degree day working on a 200+ degree engine.

Judging by where my old IP was, I would put the timing somewhere around 0-1 BTDC. The high idle solenoid was touching the upper radiator hose; I removed the bracket that holds it on so I could move the pump more. I will have to saw off the high idle solenoid to get the bracket to fit so I can attach the throttle spring to it.

My throttle cable completely took a dump on me and now I have a fuel heater leak. I think God hates me.

Update: I am at 3.6 BTDC and that is as far as the pump will move. I would have to remove the pump and adjust the lines on the pump. It starts up right away, though. I'll probably be replacing the old pump with a new one so I will leave it at 3.6 for now. I still need that throttle cable.

 

eaton didnt you just buy a new throttle cable setup? and didnt you just rebuild your heater tower?

 

No, I didn't do either of them yet. I meant to buy the throttle cable but I got lazy and procrastinated it because the old one started working again. The fuel heater hasn't leaked before but I figured it might some day, so I asked some questions so I would have the answers when I needed to do the job. Looks like I need the info now. HAHA.

I'll order that cable from RockAuto. I hope their shipping is fast.

 

They ordered from a place called Industrial Parts Depot Inc. They have a wharehouse in Louisville, KY and one in Atlanta, GA. I think you may have to be a business to order from them but I can find out for sure. If you have to be a business to order from them, I can get one for you through my mom if you decide you want one.

It is a remanufactured Stanadyne pump and is remanufactured with Stanadyne parts. It has the red remanufactured sticker on the side of it.

 

Thanks LSO, I'll let you know. I might try to beat on U-haul's door but it has been like 3 months, so I would be surprised if they even listen to me.
What did that pump run you? Core charge?

 

So, on initial startup and drive, the truck didn't smoke really at all, only if I got into it. With a whopping 140 miles on the odometer, I had to install 17.47 gallons of fuel back into the truck. During that trip, the hotter the truck got, the more it smokes and shakes at idle. Both less than the new IP. When started cold, normal shaking is felt. When warm, it started chugging in O/D and with less smoke than before, it started smoking light black puffs any time it up-shifted or had load like a hill to climb.

Temps are a little more than I would like to see but it is 106 degrees out and I did have the A/C on.

Over all, the old IP seems to smoke less and provide more power than the new IP. It is still only at 3.6 BTDC so what I am seeing could be due to the retarded setting.

 

you can't learn anything with retarded timing like that.you'll have to get her bumped up to at least 8.
man,she's really been blowing out more unburnt fuel out back than she's actually burning.
if your not careful man,your gunna melt some pistons with your testing.
if it still runs like crap with the timing set properly then you finally better send them injectors in.
i see the place you listed tests them for $8.50 each right next door to ya.
they can also test your ip for you.
http://diesel-fuel-injection.com/

there comes a point,where you need to throw in the towel,and say enough before you hurt the engine.
something isn't right,and don't take the injectors for granted as being good.
rather than repeat myself over and over lol.let me show you something:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sho...ight=injectors

 

Yeah, I have spoken to Able Fuel Injection before. They didn't have the time or equipment to time my truck before I got the meter. Maybe I could have them rebuild my old injectors and just install those; they are CAV branded. I am reading through the article you posted. I always assumed since Russ tested the injectors, they would be 100% ready to go. I paid more for the injectors than I did for the pump, so I was hoping they were the best of the best. Maybe not.

Can anyone explain why the truck runs worse after it warms up but fine when it is cool? Short of a failing IP, I don't understand why that would happen. Would a or a few stuck injectors cause smoke and high temps?

 

The pump was $513 exchange. The core charge was $350 so without a core it'd be around $850 but it sounds like you have a couple pumps you could cut loose as a core! LOL. If you do decide to go this route, I'll have them order it for you and you can send me your core and I'll take it to them. You could call Mom's store and pay with a credit card if you don't want to be sending money thru the mail. When the pump comes in I'll ship it to you on my dime, you've had so much trouble you deserve a little break! LOL