Here is a great story for you all.
Let me tell you a little about myself. I am a Ford technician working at a Ford, Dodge Jeep dealer in Steamboat until tomorrow. I have been out of the loop for a while as I took in another trade from 2001-2010 and went back to wrenching in Feb 2010. I have been slowly getting cought up on modern technology and other repair information slowly as time has passed but it sure has changed a lot in the last 10 years.

Here is the story. I get a 2004 F150 5.4l 3V with typical ticking noise and it supposedly has been in for this problem 3 other times in its 60k miles of life. The truck is immaculate, clean fluids are fresh etc etc etc. I perform the inspection and evaluate all information given to verify the noise is in fact VCT and tappets/followers. Get approval for warranty for a whopping 5.5 hours labor. Performed the job and go to test with a no start condition. KOEO codes gave me code for a failed TP sensor. Find TSB for TP and replace, and recalibrate PCM. now engine runs but not running correctly. Heavy missing at idle and under load after warm. KOEO I get P0345 and P0340 which are CPS and Base timing codes. Check cylinder balance and see all cylinders dropping off the chart. OK everyone says im probably a tooth off on timing. Tear back down and reset timing and reassemble. Problem still exists. Same codes again. Tear back down and verify timing. OK back together and same problem again. Contact Ford Hotline and am told Verify timing again and if ok replace all VCT components. Before I tear down I check PIDS and see VCT ERR and VCT ERR2 fluctuating all over but set at 0 which means base timing is correct. So I let it sit and boil for a while as im also working on a Escape Hybrid with a transaxle issue. As im thinking and working with tech assistance on that. It comes to me there has to be something else causing all of these problems, and its my fault of course because it was fine before I worked on it. Pop air filter out and engine starts to run rough and drop idle and cylinders just like before. OK perhaps the MAF isnt reading right, Barometer is about 147.5 HZ and usually they read about 136HZ up here at altitude. Short fuel trim 1 and 2 dropping off the pids randomly. Engine is very lean and fuel pressure is 38 psi. HEY! low fuel pressure? OK slow down, lets check the MAF and make sure its clean. Swap it with a good known one and no change. Clean it and back in. clear KAM and pull fuel filter off. Black fuel comes out of filter and it is plugged up so bad I cant blow much air through it. I notice there is a freaking cobweb on it. It has been on there a long time alright. But I was told "this guy does all of his maintenance"
New fuel filter, clear codes, test drive and she runs 80 MPH up the pass!

Now if the fuel filter would have been changed when I suggested it this wouldn't have been an issue. I also feel the types of oil run in these engines and frequency of change helps prevent the ticking noises and frozen VCT issues.

Just wanted to share this as it seems to be a common topic on here.

 

Great read! Thanks for the info. I'm retired phone company central office tech. We had to trouble shoot equipment a lot like you guys have to now days. I'm with you on oil change frequency, but what TYPE of oil do you feel is should be used.

 

I prefer mobil 1 for anything not running a pushrod. I am certain some of these newer synthetics from valvoline or catrol are going to be good quality oils. I just havent used them as I run nothing but pushrod engines myself. I had an 06 and ran Mobil 1 and never had any oiling issues which is where most engine problems begin.

 

I have steered away from Mobile oil ever since I bought some non synthetic years ago and opened the cap. It smelled like burned oil so that was it for me. But I may have to give Mobil1 a try. I can get it at Costco for a decent price.

 

Synthetics have some kind of funky smell for some reason. A friend of mine is some kind of engineer was explaining to me as why but I forgot the answer. LOL