84 Ford F250 with a 460, t19 trans, 4x4.

The clutch pilot bearing made some noise and I noted recently during my around the block drives my clutch was slipping. I am just curious as to how hard this is to change out?

I've been reading my shop manual, other forums, and browsing youtube and it looks like it may not be too terrible hard.

I unbolt the slave cylinder (entire thing so I don't have to rebleed it), pull the tailhousing/drive line connection at the rear of the transmission, remove the starter, pull the shifter lever up top, remove the bellhousing bolts and drop the transmission. I then pull the clutch, pressure plate, and have my fly wheel resurfaced. Install the pilot bearing, clutch and then pressure plate and reverse. Am I missing any thing here?

I've heard some business about jacking up the rear of my motor, but I don't care for doing that so much.

To get an idea of my working conditions drive way slab, a few regular hydraulic jacks, and the will to get er done. Can I do it?

 

When I did my Mustang, I used a floor jack to hold the trans and be able to roll the trans forward, as the iron transmissions are a little heavy. Yours is heavier that mine.

If your floor pan comes off or if the shifter hole is big enough to help, a used V-belt of the large variety can be used to help lift/hold/wiggle the trans from above. Or a chain, etc.

Do support the back of the engine--it may stay in place, or it may flex enough to put your fan into the radiator. You dasn't want THAT.

I used to assemble the bell, throwout, fork etc to the trans, then roll the hole thing on to the motor. I couldn't get the trans into the bell without knocking the throwout off the fork. Make 'em plenty mad....

You may have to pull a cross member or at least the mount off it.

BE SURE you block those wheels BOTH WAYS. Get some cardboard to lay on. Have some small wood blocks, pieces of plywood are good as they don't split like a short piece of 2x4 for example, to use under the engine or anything else you need to jack.

How is your drive shaft attached? Slip yoke or bolted on? If slip, you have to pull it from the rear axle if a one piece shaft.

 

Good to know, so I was under the impression that the rear of the motor was on motor mounts. Once I remove the transmission I assume that weight is reduced and the motor rocks forward or back?

 

Motor mounts are one on each side, allowing the engine to rock back and forth if not supported in the rear. It may or may not, but you DO NOT want to find that out while you are under the truck with a loose transmission and nothing available to hold it.

 

Very true I guess they are side to side controllers. So would I use just a regular like bottle jack or 2 ton jackstand for supporting the engine? I am curious as to if I can leave the shifter boot and just drop the transmission just a tad and slide it back like 3 inches or so?

 

3 inches is not going to be enough room to replace your clutch.
Your going to swear less if you just drop the tranny.

 

Most bottle jacks don't spread weight enough.

What I did, once I had the trans x-member loose, was jack the transmission up just a hair and stick a jack stand with a 2x4 under the motor. I think used an oil pan rail or something, can't remember now, then let the motor down on the 2x4 so that it was at roughly normal height. Then removed the trans.

Recommend highly that you have a plan for the flywheel - I did, but the flywheel turned out to have the wrong bolt pattern and I didn't know until we were getting ready to put it on. $#!%!!

So ended up grinding the old one clean.

If you go with a new flywheel, give the pressure plate a test fit before you go forward.

 

I used a piece of a 2x4 to hold the rear of the engine up, that seemed to work OK.

Installed the flywheel, clutch, etc. followed by the bell housing.

The T18/T19 weighs something around 100 lbs empty....

Rent a transmission jack for re installation, it'll make the job easier - it allows micro up-down-tilt-left-tilt-right-angle-up-angle-down adjustments.

To further help re installation, I installed studs in the top two transmission-mounting bolt holes, they help guide the transmission into the proper placement.

You then use the micro-adjusters on the transmission jack to stab the shaft into the engine (motors are electric) and, once you're at that point, the thing just slides into place and life is happy.

 

All engines are motors, not all motors are engines.

An engine is a motor that converts heat energy into mechanical motion, such as ICEs.

You can say that a Toyota Prius has a gas motor and an electric motor, but not a gas engine and an electric engine. You can also say that it has a gas engine and an electric motor.



Definitely agree on the transmission jack, I bought one at harbor freight for this job that did just fine, and it's come in useful for a lot of other stuff. (mostly injuring myself trying to move around it in the garage)

To your tips above, I'd also add the following:
USE THE ALIGNMENT TOOL TO HOLD THE CLUTCH IN THE RIGHT POSITION, or you have a high risk of warping it.
Install a new pilot bearing.
Hopefully your slave cylinder still has the plastic restraining strap to hold it in the retracted position, or you'll have a bear of a time getting it back on, and probably introduce air in the system.
Absolutely DO NOT touch the clutch pedal until the slave cylinder is reinstalled, or expect to start chasing clutch hydraulic issues.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone, I guess I shall start pulling stuff here soon and I guess I will certainly be back with more questions.