Just my two cents, could it be your waste gate acutuator? When I only had 5 pounds boost, we unplugged the line to the acutuator and suddenly I had 17.

 

Yep, that would do it, but I've had it disconnected for years. I even cranked up the tension on the actuator arm, so 30psi is easily obtainable on the road. Keep it coming though, I need to figure this out.

 

Was the truck up to operating temperatures in both of these videos?
Any soot on the connections pre-turbo? Still thinking the boost numbers are the key here.
Any difference if you manually shift the truck into 1?
I'm grasping at straws here now....

 

I just watched your second video again and there is either something wrong with your boost gauge of there is something going on with your boost levels. Your boost pressure peaked up there quickly after 2000 RPM but falls to zero as soon as the RMP falls below 2k again. When you were cruising at around 1750 RPM the boost gauge was resting on the peg, even though you can still hear the turbo spooling. I guess I'm not that familiar with the 38R but can that really be the case? SHOULD that really be the case?

With the TC stall speed being around the 1700 - 1800 RPM range, you're not building boost until after the TC reaches stall speed. That would certainly limit your power braking abilities and your ability to jump said parking barrier.

 

Well that is a great observation, drove the truck today and noted some intel;

@63-65 mph, ~63 degrees F my EGT's were ~650-690 (Good), and boost was around 1.75-2.5 PSI. Could hear the turbo the whole time. Coming home, a little warmer, and the EGT's were about 25 degrees higher.

This means either the coating I put on the exhaust, or the renewed seal of the manifolds actually may have made a measurable difference in the EGT's. I'm hooking up the AE tomorrow, but if my oil is good, what next. Also, both mes the truck was fully up to operating temperature.

 

So worked my A$$ off tearing apart the truck again this weekend, pulled the intake plenums, resealed them with FORD OE TA-31 (concrete in a tube), and put everything back together. So the big question... did fixing the boost leaks do the trick??? Well take a look...

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EPIC FAIL! For some reason the change in injector pitch has my attention. I'm going to up the size of my custom lines from 3/16" to 5/16". I ordered 1/4" but was told for the PTFE SS braided line, it's always 1/16" smaller do to the reduced friction, and flows the same. We'll see. Just means I have to take all my CAC plumbing back off, and fight with those dang fittings on the rear of the engine while the turbo is perched on its pedestal. I'll keep going until it works.

 

I'm baffled, Where you able to brake stand before the Tru-Trac install?? Maybe with that upgraded rear and it being able to sense just the slightest spin it engages to a posi and a high mileage trans your not able to spin. Pickin more straws..

 

I don't know, but it sure is quiet now . Most of what I hear under the hood is the solenoids firing. Just am not sure I have a good enough flow to the injectors.

Need someone smarter than I to help me out. I had the mechanical fuel gauge hooked up to the head, and it never dropped below 70psi. But this is suppose to be indicative to the volume. If my injectors were starving for fuel, wouldn't I see a drop in pressure at the head, even if the pressure at the filter was good due to the feed lines being to small? I don't know, just disgusted right now, sorry for the ramble.

 

Never back down! I been supported on this site and I'm here to support anyone else who needs it!

 

Theres more help coming, don't give up ship yet, Bulla above has been thru the wringer but he's got the bugs worked out..You will too..

 

I had a pressure drop to 35-40 psi, down from 68, under WOT before I changed to my Walbro fuel pump. I had, and still do for now, the stock fuel lines and have never had any trouble with breaking the tires loose, even with my Tru Trac.

 

So what is your MAP gauge reading VIA AE?

If it isn't seeing any boost you aren't going to get any fuel.

Let me know if you need one, I have spare you could have.

 

Thanks guys feel much better this morning, it's all good. I'll hook up the AE hopefully today and get the DC and ICP, along with the MAP. Thanks for the offer, options are always good!

I also want to check my up pipes for leakage. I know I just R&R'd them TWICE!, but need to ensure they are tight. Problem now that they are painted with BBQ black, much harder to tell. My thought was cold engine, white paper about 3" wide, with slits cut in the paper about 2" deep and 1/4" wide, zip tied to the up pipe with the 1/4" wide strips pointing toward the collector. Then mount camera, illuminate, start, let idle for short period and give it some juice. Then inspect white paper for traces of soot/review video for movement of paper. I'll remove the fan for this test to reduce air movement in the engine compartment.

 

If we are to believe the boost gauge, he isn't getting any boost, so I'm sure the MAP gauge isn't seeing any.

What sorts of boost numbers are the rest of you seeing in the 17-1800 RPM range with your SD's? Anyone else running a 38R that could give us a baseline? Were you able to fry them when you first installed the 38R?

 

Nope! Last time the beast acted untamed was in AK, with the OE e99 turbo at Brian's. He and I went on a test drive, with Cale's tunes... it would smoke the tires on every tune. It had AB injectors and an Auburn L/S (both tires were spinning.) It was explained that with the different A/R of the 38R, changed things and I excepted that (2-3 years now.) Then I saw a video where Joe (Izzy351) was passing a fire truck, was moving already, and he just got on it a bit and broke his tires loose like there was no tomorrow! Soooo, I know these trucks should do it.