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Ok, I am wanting to paint my 71 F-100 to give it a little better appearance and maybe in the process do some rust prevention as well. It is currently painted, but alot of it has began to oxidize and of coarse there are few rust spots that I am in the middle of fixing.
I am little short on funds to afford a new paint job and there are no Maaco's or anything like that close to me. I know alot you talk about not really wasting the money and time in a rattle can paint jobs and I tend to agree, but like others I don't have access to anywhere that I could paint my truck.
The question I have is I would be willing to buy a basic air gun and some paint from Sherwin Williams or something, but what kind of results would I get if I painted it outside in a somewhat wind shielded area?
I haven't got any personal experience to relate but I've talked with friends who have painted outside more than a few times outside. As long as the body is prepped properly indoors (bare metal primed) they spray the vehicle under a cover and out of the wind. They tell me painting on a cool wet day is best, the paint doesn't dry as fast and there's no dust. I think you'd have to compensate for the humidity by mixing the paint appropriately.
There's one opinion.
If you use a paint with a hardner, you can sand and buff to get a perfect job but takes time. I have found knats to be the biggest problem. They are attracted to drying paint.
With modern urethane paint I don't think humidity is a factor like it was with laquers and enamals, since modern paints don't 'dry' but anctually 'cure' instead.
I also would agree with painting on a damp day and wetting down the floor before beginning to paint for dust control but I would want the paint mixed to dry as quickly as possible rather than slower.
Last edited by Huntsman; Mar 25, 2003 at 09:27 PM.
We set up our carport with pull down plastic sheeting for my sandblasting and painting booth. Definately need to hose everything down and it's best to paint in the morning. Most of those little flying critters aren't out that early.
Avoid painting on wet or damp days if possible. They only help to get condensation in your compressor, air lines, and ultimately in the paint. You can use disposable 'air desiccant' filters that screw on in front of the regulator that screws onto the gun. The way to control drying, (or curing), of the paint is to buy your reducer or hardner, (depending on which paint system you buy), for the temperature when you spray. Try to put some kind of protection up around the 'booth' and over the truck. If I were you, I would use a solid paint instead of basecoat/clearcoat. Then if little critters do get in the paint, leave them alone, let the paint cure and color sand the paint in a few months. After you do that, polish it and wax it and you will probably never be able to tell that they were ever there...unless it was a bird or squirrel.
Also, wear a mask that is at least suitable for non-hardened enamel. You won't find anything out there where the manufacturer will say it's okay for hardened paints unless it is a positive air supplied mask designed for use with isocyanates. But a least a mask is better than nothing and you really don't want to be breathing any of that crap.
I've done a few jobs outside and the results can be better than if you have a garage that isnt set up for painting.
Natural sunlight gives you nice even lighting, and since your not enclosed, theres less hazards associated with fumes in enclosed spaces.
You do have to make certain that your not going to paint upwind of your neighbors, or where the fumes will get into any buildings where poeple could be affected.
I have had best results with hardened urethanes with fairly fast reducers, as the stuff tends to dry before bugs, etc become a problem.
I have found that sunny dry weather is best. Yoo much humidity and I find that paint dosen't flow as nicely .
I have even had my work rained on within 20 minutes of application without affecting the finished product!
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