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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Wiring Harnesses...looking for feedback

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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #16  
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Nice to read about EZ wiring.
As a novice to all this... I just got my EZ wiring harness in (ordered it blindly) and will put all efforts into my install (hope it's as EZ as stated).
Paul
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Ron Francis though, one gets the feeling he has a pretty high opinion of himself.
My feelings too ......BUT I kind of feel the same way about myself !!

Also Ron helped me out with a wiring diagram for a discontinued “Ron Francis” old school stock panel that I morphed into this?

It's just me ........but I prefer (like Julie) to scratch wire everything.

Now you don't see it, .................................................. ........now you do!
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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Jack,
I went with the 21 circuit EZ Wirirng harness in my 49. Sure, there are a lot of circuits I'll probably never use but I figured its better to go in with too many than not enough. I bought mine off of Ebay (It was a new harness). Installation was very easy, I'm happy with the quality of the harness, all the wires are color coded and labeled, wires are easily removed from the fuse panel if you don't need them.

If you would like to see what the harness looks like I'd be glad to let you crawl all over my truck and check things out. I still have the install manual and other parts and I'd be glad to lend a hand when you start wiring your truck

Bobby
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Jack,
I went with the 21 circuit EZ Wirirng harness in my 49. Sure, there are a lot of circuits I'll probably never use but I figured its better to go in with too many than not enough. I bought mine off of Ebay (It was a new harness). Installation was very easy, I'm happy with the quality of the harness, all the wires are color coded and labeled, wires are easily removed from the fuse panel if you don't need them.

If you would like to see what the harness looks like I'd be glad to let you crawl all over my truck and check things out. I still have the install manual and other parts and I'd be glad to lend a hand when you start wiring your truck

Bobby

Bobby, thanks, I just might take you up on that. My concern about all the harnesses, actually is length. If I put the fuse panel behind the seat and run the wiring up over the door will I end up too short with The EZ harness? RF and Am. Autowire have long wire kits for a premium, of course, and I'm not sure if EZ does. I'm going to try and call them Monday.
I'd like to put all the electrical/electronics like the amp, Fuel Injection controller, and the fuse panel behind the seat. The other routing alternative is to go down and under the cab, bringing it back up at the dash and firewall.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 05:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Cooter55
My concern about all the harnesses, actually is length. If I put the fuse panel behind the seat and run the wiring up over the door will I end up too short with The EZ harness? RF and Am. Autowire have long wire kits for a premium, of course, and I'm not sure if EZ does. I'm going to try and call them Monday.
I'd like to put all the electrical/electronics like the amp, Fuel Injection controller, and the fuse panel behind the seat. The other routing alternative is to go down and under the cab, bringing it back up at the dash and firewall.
I could be wrong, but I don't think you'll have nearly enough room in your windshield post to run all your front wiring through there comfortably. Best to save that route for only the under dash stuff, and run the engine and lights wiring thru the floor and along the frame rail fore and aft. You should have plenty of length then.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
I could be wrong, but I don't think you'll have nearly enough room in your windshield post to run all your front wiring through there comfortably. Best to save that route for only the under dash stuff, and run the engine and lights wiring thru the floor and along the frame rail fore and aft. You should have plenty of length then.
You're probably right about the room in the windshield post and I'm going to need to bring the FI wiring up front as well. I'll probably end up doing as you suggest.
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 10:14 AM
  #22  
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Jack,

I don't think the EZ Wire would be long enough for up and over the door frames. The harnesses give you a generous amount of length and have extra length for the passenger side lighting circuits as most people mount the fuse block next to the steering column and route everything along the driver's side of the truck.

I mounted my fuse block in the standard position (just to the left of the steering column) but then I routed the harness over to the passengers side and out the lower part of the firewall to meet up with the starter on my Caddy engine. I then ran everything up and down the passenger side of the truck. Doing it this way I had to swap the labled and color codes for the lighting circuits from side to side or splice in some extra length for the turn signal circuits.

If you were to drop the harness out the bottom of the cab instead of going up and over the doors The EZ Wiring harness would probably be long enough.

In any event, you're still welcome to look at my harness and manual before making your mind up. My offer is still good for helping you out as well.

When I routed my harness I probably had it in and out of the truck 4 times. I put the fuse block where I wanted it then started routing wires but not making any terminations. I wanted to make sure I was happy with the routing for everything before making any cuts or splices. All in all, I think I had it in place and everything hoked up in the course of a weekend. No biggie

Bobby
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #23  
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Have you considered buying the small fuse block option, making a insert and placing it in the glove box? Easy to check/replace fuses especially in rain/cold weather. Don't need to stand on you head or on your knees to find the correct fuse, etc. If you got to have it in the fuel tank area, weld a 3 inch plate raised 1/4" along side the driveshaft cover on the passenger side, inside the cab. Rug will hide it.. chuck
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #24  
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Just a general wiring thought.....

Whenever someone talks of wiring their truck the subject of replacing fuses without having to contort oneself always comes up. For the most part, and especially if care is taking on the harness install, there is hardly ever any need access the fuse block.

Basically, if you take care to always use proper protection (no...not that kind of protection) split loom, grommets for pass throughs, avoiding pinch points , etc then a wiring harness is pretty trouble free

....ok, I'm done with my random thoughts
Bobby
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 05:18 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Just a general wiring thought.....

Whenever someone talks of wiring their truck the subject of replacing fuses without having to contort oneself always comes up. For the most part, and especially if care is taking on the harness install, there is hardly ever any need access the fuse block.

Basically, if you take care to always use proper protection (no...not that kind of protection) split loom, grommets for pass throughs, avoiding pinch points , etc then a wiring harness is pretty trouble free

....ok, I'm done with my random thoughts
Bobby
Bobby, I'm going to talk to the EZwire guys tomorrow and see if I can get some measurements. I'm going to see if they offer what's called a trunk mount kit because that would have wires long enough to run to the front. Thanks for your input and I may take you and Ross up on your offers to help.
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #26  
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I used a Rebel wiring harness. They are marked every 5 inches so you know which wire is which. Easy to understand directions for all 3 manufacturers. I had never done anything wiring before this truck and I was able to do it over a couple of days and if I had any questions all I had to do was call them and they would talk me through it without making me feel like a retard...
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #27  
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Jack,

Excellent, just let me know

Bobby
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #28  
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hey guys not to go off topic but if i do my 51 with a 12v wiring. what if anything can i use to still use my stock gauges? is there anyway for me to test my old gauges? they still look incredible and i would love to use them if it is at all possible.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 06:25 AM
  #29  
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Doing a RF on my 53,so far I like it .Straight forward instructions pre bagged kit.wires clearly marked.More than i'll ever need for future additions . Kit I ordered did not have a gas sender wire long enough for relocated tank. Ron sent one no charge,Thought that was excellent customer satisfaction.Always on the phone for any questions too. I sure like how F1 put his box in a drawer under the seat.I wish I could have seen that before I started on mine.Good luck on your choice of kits.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 06:50 AM
  #30  
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I really like F1s under the seat implementation as well.. I am no longer a successful contortionist..

Sam
 
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