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ok, i was talking to a friend and they wanna know if its hard to swap a 9" in place of there 8.8" which they killed on a 95 f-150. they wanna know if the speed sensor can be adapted or would it be best to rebuild or get a new 8.8"
With enough time and money, anything can be adapted to fit anywhere. Fitting the exciter ring from the 8.8 to the 9"would qualify as major surgery though. The sensor itself would be easier, but it needs the exciter in order to have something to sense. It would be simpler and cheaper in the long run just to rebuild the 8.8 with bulletproof parts.
the 9" will physically fir in there, thought like sr said that speedo gear/sensor would not be happy there. try to find an 8.8 in the yard, should be plenty of, theyre on basically every rwd car and truck from about 85 on.
No need for a 9". The 8.8 is a strong axle when modified. It'll handle 500hp. The most popular mods are the diff cover, converted to a nice piece that has caps for the bearings. The 8.8 has a wear diff. I've heard of welding the axle tubes to the housing. Also, they make kits that convert it from a semi-floater to a full floater. What more do you need???
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .
Acutally, the 8.8 is comparable to the GM 10 bolt diff in strength. Both use a form of C-clips to hold the axles on. Not a good design, as if the c-clip breaks, you're axle goes flying off with the wheel. My 8.8" self destructed at 51,000 miles, so I'm not a big fan. But the rebuild has held up fine.
>Acutally, the 8.8 is comparable to the GM 10 bolt diff in
>strength. Both use a form of C-clips to hold the axles on.
>Not a good design, as if the c-clip breaks, you're axle goes
>flying off with the wheel.
What holds the 9" axles in place? I've seen more of them go flying out than GM or late Ford.
The C-clips are the only problem the 8.8 has that I didnt mention. The ones I mentioned are easily modified. I havn't seen a kit to fix the c-clip problem, but I havn't heard it actually be much of a problem to people. I'll dig up some links of info for the 8.8.
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .
There are C-clip eliminator kits which are stronger than the C-clip, but not as strong a 9". I know that C-clip eliminator kits are manditory in certain drag racing classes, but faster classes don't allow them because they just aren't as strong as the 9" design.
I should also correct my earlier statement. 8.8" diffs are comparable to GM 12 bolts, not GM 10 bolts.
The 8.8 will take a crap load of power, enough for what he probably wants to do with a few modifications. I don't think the 9" swap is nessessary, but that's just my opinion. Friend of mine has 350hp going to a stock 28 spline 8.8 with 160k miles on it and it's running just fine. They are a good unit.
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .
What is he nuts, the 8.8 will handle up to 37's perfectly fine according to 4wheeler's magazine.
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .
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