Coolant change?
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Coolant change?
Hey fellas, I am new to the diesel world and I have been reading nightmares about the 6.0 PSD. I just found out that the previous owner deleted the egr valve and replaced the oil cooler (5000 miles ago). Does anybody know if it is necessary to replace the coolant with an ELC coolant as he did not do this, he used the gold that ford puts out.
Thanks, Rob
2005 F250 Lariat 74000 miles
Thanks, Rob
2005 F250 Lariat 74000 miles
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Tampa, FL
There are many here that say the Ford Gold coolant is a contributing factor to some of the problems that plague the 6.0. What I've read about that makes sense, and I am in the process of doing a very thorough distilled water flush. When I am ready to add new coolant I will be going with Zerex's CAT-approved coolant part # ZED1 (this is the one gallon concentrate part number). If you're going to do a change I would see no reason not to switch, and this coolant is extended life spec which is a bonus- not that I probably won't be changing it every few years anyway, but still probably a better overall quality of coolant.
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From: Inverness, Fl
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Oregon
Hey fellas, I am new to the diesel world and I have been reading nightmares about the 6.0 PSD. I just found out that the previous owner deleted the egr valve and replaced the oil cooler (5000 miles ago). Does anybody know if it is necessary to replace the coolant with an ELC coolant as he did not do this, he used the gold that ford puts out.
Thanks, Rob
2005 F250 Lariat 74000 miles
Thanks, Rob
2005 F250 Lariat 74000 miles
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/149749-replaced-oil-cooler-still-difference-temps-21.html#post2063212
Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.
To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.
Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.
Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.
Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* for these products to work on both products. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.
Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.
After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.
Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.
new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LI33024-GB.pdf
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Can someone explain the reasoning behind this statement?
I was going to do a flush next w/e, and use Peak FinalCharge, which is an OAT coolant. It meets Cat EC-1 spec, and is nitrate free.
Thanks for the help!
I was going to do a flush next w/e, and use Peak FinalCharge, which is an OAT coolant. It meets Cat EC-1 spec, and is nitrate free.
Thanks for the help!
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From: Inverness, Fl
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From: Oregon
. The answer is out there
One thing that importantly needs to be corrected, and a mistake than many misinformed people make, is that not all OAT coolants are like what GM uses. GM typically uses a "Dexcool" forumulation, which is specifically not recommended for your diesel engine. Dexcool type coolants were never intended for diesel applications. There are many modern Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants specifically designed for diesels. Delo ELC, Rotella ELC, International's Fleetrite ELC, <ACRONYM title="Catalytic Converter or Cat Rebel">CAT</ACRONYM> ELC, Mobil 1 ELC, and a host of others. They will address diesel cavitatation, provide superior metal corrosion protection, provide better heat transfer, require no testing and maintenance, be free of harmful abrasive silicates, borates, and phosphates, and have an operating life up to 1 million miles (Delo ELC). In fact International, who made your engine, recommends and factory-fills with these Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants (Fleetrite ELC/Shell Rotella ELC). And in fact almost all heavy duty diesel manufacturers use Heavy Duty ELC's meeting the most strict requirements in the industry...Caterpillar's EC-1. Very little to do with GM's OAT coolant.
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From: Oregon
It meets EC-1 standard and that's the important thing. Others on this board have used it as well. My personal choice is Delo for obvious reasons but I have been referring people to Napa for the Zerex ELC part# ZXED1 because it is pretty much universally available. There is a Napa store just about everywhere and if they don't have it on the shelf they can order it by that part# and have it in a day.
Not all OAT based coolants are like Dexcool. That is a for sure no no.
OK--- CASE CLOSED
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Being I am a complete noob at this and have never attempted it I have a couple of questions.
Your draining the coolant system what are you catching the fluid in? How much are we talking? If you are doing this 3 - 4 times I am thinking that is a whole hell of alot of fluid. 55 Gal drum? <-- I know thats overkill but for reference sake.
I am just trying to understand as once my truck comes out of warranty alot of these repairs I will have to take on myself. Since I live in California the land of "If they can bitch they will!" I am curious is all. In So Cal I would get fined and have the po po & Hazmat at my door if I had coolant running down the street.
Thanks,
Your draining the coolant system what are you catching the fluid in? How much are we talking? If you are doing this 3 - 4 times I am thinking that is a whole hell of alot of fluid. 55 Gal drum? <-- I know thats overkill but for reference sake.
I am just trying to understand as once my truck comes out of warranty alot of these repairs I will have to take on myself. Since I live in California the land of "If they can bitch they will!" I am curious is all. In So Cal I would get fined and have the po po & Hazmat at my door if I had coolant running down the street.
Thanks,
Elder User
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From: Inverness, Fl
When your flushing 3-4 times or more we are talking about water..not coolant. You only add coolant after your last flush. I used about 15-18 gal of distilled water. I used tap water for the Restore & VC-9 flushes. After that I used distilled water till water came out clean..I catch mine in a 5 gal pail.
Senior User
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From: Oregon
Being I am a complete noob at this and have never attempted it I have a couple of questions.
Your draining the coolant system what are you catching the fluid in? How much are we talking? If you are doing this 3 - 4 times I am thinking that is a whole hell of alot of fluid. 55 Gal drum? <-- I know thats overkill but for reference sake.
I am just trying to understand as once my truck comes out of warranty alot of these repairs I will have to take on myself. Since I live in California the land of "If they can bitch they will!" I am curious is all. In So Cal I would get fined and have the po po & Hazmat at my door if I had coolant running down the street.
Thanks,
Your draining the coolant system what are you catching the fluid in? How much are we talking? If you are doing this 3 - 4 times I am thinking that is a whole hell of alot of fluid. 55 Gal drum? <-- I know thats overkill but for reference sake.
I am just trying to understand as once my truck comes out of warranty alot of these repairs I will have to take on myself. Since I live in California the land of "If they can bitch they will!" I am curious is all. In So Cal I would get fined and have the po po & Hazmat at my door if I had coolant running down the street.
Thanks,
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