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I tried a search but didn't quite find what I was looking for. I was on my way to work this am and my charge light illuminated. I turned off all electrical load that I could and turned around for home. I called my local rebuilder and he was out of our alternator and couldn't get around to rebuilding mine until Friday. I bought a new unit from another rebuilder in the area and it would not charge. I check the wiring at the alternator I have 12 volts on the one at all times and 12 volts with the ignition switch on the other. With the engine running, I have zero volts on the output terminal. (I even shook the wires a good bit, I read the stories about the plug)
Is there anything I'm forgeting to check? For 250 bucks, you would think that I would get a good alternator!
.....With the engine running, I have zero volts on the output terminal.....
I don't understand this part, because even if the alternator is bad you should at least be reading battery voltage. The wire which reads 12V continuously is the remote sensor wire which the alternator uses to keep ~ 12V at the terminal block. The wire that goes hot with the key on is the circuit which goes through the dash light, so that all sounds good.
Can you verify continuity between the large cable that connects to the alternator post and the batteries. Something doesn't sound right................
I don't understand this part, because even if the alternator is bad you should at least be reading battery voltage. The wire which reads 12V continuously is the remote sensor wire which the alternator uses to keep ~ 12V at the terminal block. The wire that goes hot with the key on is the circuit which goes through the dash light, so that all sounds good.
Can you verify continuity between the large cable that connects to the alternator post and the batteries. Something doesn't sound right................
Thats what I thought as well....I've had time to think about this and I'm wondering if maybe my fusible link is blown. Headed out now to check.
ETA..I had voltage there as well. Looks like I've bought 250 bucks worth of CCJ- Cheap Chinese Junk.
I took both the new alternator and old one to my usual rebuilder this morning. My old one was definitely fried. He said that is is very common, the internal short to ground. The new one tested good. He told me to go back and check the fusible link. I had 12 volts there, however with the batts and alternator disconnected I had 35 ohms resistance. Further investigation I found this as shown in pic. I have maybe enough wire, a strand or two, to show continuity and voltage, but nowhere near enough to carry any load.