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Old May 17, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Charging issues

I tried a search but didn't quite find what I was looking for. I was on my way to work this am and my charge light illuminated. I turned off all electrical load that I could and turned around for home. I called my local rebuilder and he was out of our alternator and couldn't get around to rebuilding mine until Friday. I bought a new unit from another rebuilder in the area and it would not charge. I check the wiring at the alternator I have 12 volts on the one at all times and 12 volts with the ignition switch on the other. With the engine running, I have zero volts on the output terminal. (I even shook the wires a good bit, I read the stories about the plug)

Is there anything I'm forgeting to check? For 250 bucks, you would think that I would get a good alternator!

TIA

Duncan
 
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Old May 17, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jetdoc
.....With the engine running, I have zero volts on the output terminal.....
I don't understand this part, because even if the alternator is bad you should at least be reading battery voltage. The wire which reads 12V continuously is the remote sensor wire which the alternator uses to keep ~ 12V at the terminal block. The wire that goes hot with the key on is the circuit which goes through the dash light, so that all sounds good.

Can you verify continuity between the large cable that connects to the alternator post and the batteries. Something doesn't sound right................
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Plankton
I don't understand this part, because even if the alternator is bad you should at least be reading battery voltage. The wire which reads 12V continuously is the remote sensor wire which the alternator uses to keep ~ 12V at the terminal block. The wire that goes hot with the key on is the circuit which goes through the dash light, so that all sounds good.

Can you verify continuity between the large cable that connects to the alternator post and the batteries. Something doesn't sound right................
Thats what I thought as well....I've had time to think about this and I'm wondering if maybe my fusible link is blown. Headed out now to check.

ETA..I had voltage there as well. Looks like I've bought 250 bucks worth of CCJ- Cheap Chinese Junk.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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I took both the new alternator and old one to my usual rebuilder this morning. My old one was definitely fried. He said that is is very common, the internal short to ground. The new one tested good. He told me to go back and check the fusible link. I had 12 volts there, however with the batts and alternator disconnected I had 35 ohms resistance. Further investigation I found this as shown in pic. I have maybe enough wire, a strand or two, to show continuity and voltage, but nowhere near enough to carry any load.

I'm off to get some 12 ga fusible link.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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Remember Kwik's trick of additional, heavy-gauge wires between the alternator and the left battery?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9537823

Would'a saved you some money and grief. Just sayin'.....

What do you think popped that link? Kinda' unusual to pop one of them at all.

Pop
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Remember Kwik's trick of additional, heavy-gauge wires between the alternator and the left battery?

Would'a saved you some money and grief. Just sayin'.....

What do you think popped that link? Kinda' unusual to pop one of them.

Pop
It was an internal short in the alternator. My rebuilder says it is pretty common on these trucks. He sees it alot on plow rigs.


What protection do you have if you add an extra wire from the alternator to the left battery? Do you install a link in there as well?
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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In that case, the internal short in an alternator BECOMES the fuse, and blows open!

That's the downside of using the heavy-gauge additional wire, but at that point, the alternator needs repair anyway. Just more repair.

I suppose one COULD put a 150-amp fuse in-line with the added wire.

Pop
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
In that case, the internal short in an alternator BECOMES the fuse, and blows open!

That's the downside of using the heavy-gauge additional wire, but at that point, the alternator needs repair anyway. Just more repair.

I suppose one COULD put a 150-amp fuse in-line with the added wire.

Pop
Thats a whole lotta amperage under there to be blowin open!!!

The new link is installed and worked great. Just FYI, the fusible links 4 total, are on a relay just behind the passenger side battery.
 
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