When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On a recent trip to the local parts store, I noticed that black, blue, and red permatex are all the same price. According to my knowledge the only difference is the temperature range. If this is the case, and they are the smae price...... why buy anything but the red? Is there some other difference that I am unaware of?
I believe they are all resistant to different chemicals ie. trans fluid, gear oil, gasoline, etc. Not entirly sure, should say on back of package if this is the case.
Go to the Permatex site www.permatex.com and you will find a link to product selection. I will work through your requirements and applications and display the correct product with some information.
I think the colors are difernt strenghs or how strong they are, blue is low strenght or for1\4 inch if you use red all the time you will be breaking a lot of bolts when you take things apart later if you have to use heat it will help to relese it.
hope this helps
I generally use the red for parts which bolt directly to the block, such as water pumps or thermostats. and use blue for valve cover and oil pan gaskets, which don't usually get so hot.
The main difference between the colors is how they cure. Some cure in air, some sure in the absence of air (red). Some always stay flexible, some do not. Some can be used with gasoline, some with anti-freeze, some can not. Application chart is the best guideline.
Black is a great RTV, unless it comes in contact with gasoline or vaoprs. They sell a gray that is great for anti-freeze and thermostat housings that I like to use, where black, red, or blue will not do.
Good info, John. You just cleared something up for me that I had always just glossed over. As a biologist, I am familiar with aerobic and anaerobic life forms -- but I never made the connection with anaerobic gasket makers, till I read your post. You put the right amount of material on it, install the part -- don't wait for it to cure, 'cause it's not gonna --- not till it is all sealed up and away from air.
Now I got it! Thanks. If we still had the old point system, I'd give you a couple.
You know what we need on the little emotion icons -- we need one with a "Dope slap", that's what we need. I'd put one right here.
I usually use the blue for most things. Seems to hold well and I can still hand spin the nuts and bolts off fairly easy after a few rotations. I go through quite a bit of it on all the external engine stuff.
I've had a small tube of the red in my roll around for years. I don't do much engine rebuilding, but when I do, I put it on the internal engine stuff or bolts that just seem to vibrate loose no matter what I do. Years ago I used the red exclusively, but just got tired of fighting every single turn, and frankly, I've found replacing flat worn out lock washers takes care of most of my problems.
I don't see it much, but they make a purple thats just great for small stuff, like 4/40 thread. It's a little gummy and not real hard. Works well for small applications. Ever notice how on small dia. ATR, once the nuts vibrate loose from the star or lock washer, they take on a mind of thier own? Purple takes care of that and you can reuse the hardware.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.