signals fail
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signals fail
Have an 2006 Escape equiped with an aftermarket trailer plug module,when not hooked up to trailer,signals/flashers work fine,as soon as trailer is hooked up,signals will fail,sometimes left,then right,shut off truck,then signal function is ok,then fails again...any ideas?
Posting Guru
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From: Warren, MI
A common problem with after market wiring. The SJB monitors the current drawn by all lighting circuit, if it senses a higher than normal draw it opens the circuit. Like a resetable fuse. In later years they got fancier yet where DTCs are set when too much current is drawn.
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A common problem with after market wiring. The SJB monitors the current drawn by all lighting circuit, if it senses a higher than normal draw it opens the circuit. Like a resetable fuse. In later years they got fancier yet where DTCs are set when too much current is drawn.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
The only other solution to excess current load that I can think of is to supply the necessary amperage through a relay. The load for the trailer tail and marker lights could be supplied by a relay operated by the headlight switch, which is a very standard option. If the aftermarket box had a connection to allow for external power, the relay operated power would take the load for the trailer brake and turn signal lights. IOW, use the standard headlight switch to operate a relay which would feed power from the battery, through a fuse, to the aftermarket connector.
tom
tom
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From: Ct
You may also want to try hooking your trailer up to a different vehicle that is also using a direct wire set-up, or try a friends trailer that works fine on your vehicle and make sure it is not the trailer causing the problem. I have 4 different trailers and the car hauler - being the longest of the four - will not work right on one of my relatives trucks but works fine on my big Bronco & Explorer. Both of mine came with the factory trailer rig that has dedicated wires & relays for the trailer so it can handle a lot of load. When we tried one of my smaller trailers on relatives truck it worked fine. We think it is the amount of lights on the car hauler and the length of the wires it has to feed; but the bottom line is that one trailer does take more power than the other. You may have to run the trailer lights from a seperate supply and use relays to trigger them. Also agree with above that if body computer (SJB) sees too much draw it will turn off thinking short in system. In other words you would need to do the wiring different (dedicated power & relays) either way but just for the knowledge see if the vehicle is the issue or the trailer. You may find the trailer is just drawing too much current and you can try to change it. (put in LED bulbs, check for shorts, disable extra running lights, etc.)
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From: Warren, MI
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From: Ct
Right - On my trucks that came with the factory set-up trailer kit they have their own power / relays and all / so even if you overload the trailer wires, or short a wire on the trailer it does not hurt the system for the truck. The aftermarket units just tap in to the existing wires and if too much load it will trip breaker or blow fuse or SJB will turn off relay. My brother in law could use my large trailer that can haul two quads but the car hauler would turn off his parking lights until you un-plugged the trailer. The hauler has many more side lights on it and the length of wire is at least double the small trailer so draw was more. Also had boat trailer do this to him when in water because (I am not electrical engineer) but I think when under water it was drawing more resistance. Bottom line is try the trailer on another vehicle and make sure trailer is not the overload.
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