2002 ford excursion spark plug change
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2002 ford excursion spark plug change
I'm getting ready to do a change on my friends 2002 excursion and it has the V10 in it and I was just wondering if you all had any tips on doing it cause i'm sure the very back to will be a pita
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 2
From: Greensboro, NC
The rear 2 plugs on the passenger side are awful. Have a good assortment of extensions available - I usually use a 3" on my spark plug socket and put in in the hole. Then have another 2-3" on my rachet and join the two extensions together if that makes sense. It's worse if you have a coarse socket as there isn't a lot of room to swing the rachet to loosen things up. An 80 tooth or higher socket makes things much easier - I actually like this one:
Good luck. I find it easier to actually sit in the engine bay but that doesn't work for everyone.
Good luck. I find it easier to actually sit in the engine bay but that doesn't work for everyone.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
These are some good write ups:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html
A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html
A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
These are some good write ups:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html
A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html
A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
The only must have tool in this job is an inch pound torque wrench.
This is used for torquing the spark plugs...oh...dont forget the antiseize on the plug threads. Dont follow the above (especially on your 4 thread heads) and you will be asking for a ejected plug.
As for the install?
Personally...I say jack up the fuel rail and lift it high...gives you a lot of room and only takes 2 bolts to do. Plus, you can yank all the injectors and inspect them. Reinstall with some vasoline on each o-ring and it slides back together with a satisfying pop. If you use no lube, you'll wonder if the rail is all the way down.
After all the crap is outta the way, you can sail down the line. Use some dielectic grease on the plug end and harness end of the coil packs (and on the injector connectors)
People make much more of this job then it really is IMO
This is used for torquing the spark plugs...oh...dont forget the antiseize on the plug threads. Dont follow the above (especially on your 4 thread heads) and you will be asking for a ejected plug.
As for the install?
Personally...I say jack up the fuel rail and lift it high...gives you a lot of room and only takes 2 bolts to do. Plus, you can yank all the injectors and inspect them. Reinstall with some vasoline on each o-ring and it slides back together with a satisfying pop. If you use no lube, you'll wonder if the rail is all the way down.
After all the crap is outta the way, you can sail down the line. Use some dielectic grease on the plug end and harness end of the coil packs (and on the injector connectors)
People make much more of this job then it really is IMO
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 2
From: Greensboro, NC
I'm not sure I'd call a flex head rachet from Snap On a bunch of 'wobbly stuff' and the extensions are a requirement. I better go read your write up so I learn how to do something I do on a weekly basis.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
.Snap On flap on, it's just another brand.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I hated snap on ratchets because they were too smooth and slippery and hard to reverse but thanks for your photo and contribution, I'm just fussy about my wrench's.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 5
From: chicago northwest suburbs
I did mine at 50K. from all the reading and doing them on an F150 of the same year I was expecting them to be a PITA. turns out they were a piece of cake! being built on the F250 platfrom there is plenty of room under the hood. I had mine done 30-40min.! with air tools. the rears are easy. don`t know why everyone says you need special tools? I needed no wobbles or special extensions.
Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).
Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 2
From: Greensboro, NC
Are you always this way? Seen some of your other posts but thought it was a fluke. Oh well... glad you liked the picture and hope you figure out what good tools are at some point.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I did mine at 50K. from all the reading and doing them on an F150 of the same year I was expecting them to be a PITA. turns out they were a piece of cake! being built on the F250 platfrom there is plenty of room under the hood. I had mine done 30-40min.! with air tools. the rears are easy. don`t know why everyone says you need special tools? I needed no wobbles or special extensions.
Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).
Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).