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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Clutch Release Lever Stud

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Old May 10, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #1  
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Clutch Release Lever Stud

Hello again everyone,

Well, after I got the engine running well, I decided to see if I rebuilt the clutch correctly. The first time I pushed the clutch pedal in it went all the way to the floor and did not come back. I also heard a ping like metal hitting the floor. Well, I immediately shut off the truck and looked underneath. Sure enough the clutch fork popped out. I can't really see any damage but several people have said that the clutch release lever stud is probably worn and isn't holding the fork like it should be. I am going to order a new clutch fork but I can't seem to find the stud anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas where I can find this part? It's for an '85 Ford F350 460ci. Thank you all.

-Jeremy
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Pretty sure the stud is integral to the bellhousing, but I've been wrong before.

More likely, you didn't have the clutch fork mounted properly to the throwout bearing. This happened to me.

It's also likely that you blew the slave cylinder in the process.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Well, you're just a ray of sunshine. Anyway, I'll look a little bit later to see if that is the case or if I got lucky. I heard also that greasing the stud could be a good idea. Thoughts?
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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lavatan,

Are you referring to 7B602 here?

 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lavatan
Well, you're just a ray of sunshine. Anyway, I'll look a little bit later to see if that is the case or if I got lucky. I heard also that greasing the stud could be a good idea. Thoughts?
Yes, grease the stud and the pocket on the fork where it mounts to the stud.

This should help eliminate the bird chirping noise with your foot off the clutch.

I still have it, though.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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BTW if you're talking about what I think you're talking about (the ball-socket joint between the fork and the bell housing) I greased mine when I put it back together.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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ctubutis, yes that is exactly the part I'm talking about. I haven't really looked at it yet to see if it needs replacing, but just in case it does, is there any place I can buy that?
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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The parts diagram (awesome, btw) does make it look serviceable...
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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E4TZ-7B602-A STUD CL REL LEVER Fits 84/87 F250/F350 6.9L Diesel, 7.5L Gas (as well as others), T-19 Transmission Available

Our sponsor Ed Olsen www.partsguyed.com has it; MSRP $32.39 Ed's price for FTE members = $23.32


Just for kicks, I looked up the clutch fork, too....

E6TZ-7515-A LEVER ASY CL RELEASE Marked E4TA 7515 CA or E6TA-AA Fits 84/87 F250/F350 6.9L, 7.5L

Ed has this, too; MSRP $45.38 our price $32.68
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Ctubutis, you are the man! I have bookmarked the site. I hope I don't have to order the part, but if I do thank you so much for the point in the right direction. Again you and this forum come through for me.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Thanks, man! It's comments like that that keep me doing this.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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BTW if you use Ed's site, do not insert dashes into the part number box, just give it straight numbers/letters.

Also, in the first four characters, use the letter 'O' and not the numeral zero (if applicable).
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
BTW if you use Ed's site, do not insert dashes into the part number box, just give it straight numbers/letters.

Also, in the first four characters, use the letter 'O' and not the numeral zero (if applicable).
If you type the number into Ed's site with the hyphens, when you click on submit, the part number comes up without the hyphens.

Try it: EOAZ-19562-A / Note the O. In this case, 0 doesn't work, though it was correct...originally.

One has to be careful substituting the O for the 0. It all depends on how the number was originally typed into Ford's computer system.

In some cases O will work, in some cases, 0 will work. If neither work, the part is either obsolete, or the number was changed.
 
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