Mix and match FE parts- use which?

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Old 05-09-2011, 03:17 AM
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Mix and match FE parts- use which?

I have the following-

Blocks (Does either have a better chance to bore further?)
C7ME-A
D4TE

Heads- (Higher compression? Better valves? Anything?)
C8AE-H
D2TEAA

Exhaust Manifolds (Good, Bad, crap?)
RH C8AE-9431-B
LH C5Te-9430-C

Intake (No Brainer)
C7TE 8425 (2bbl)
D5TE 9425MB (4bbl)

The older parts are original from a '68 F350 360 (the truck I'm restoring)
The newer parts are from a 390 that I was going to put in the truck. I'd like to mix-and-match anything here that may be better for performance. Truck has a NP435 4 speed and isn't a race car, just going to be fixed up for my grandfathers enjoyment.
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:23 AM
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Block
whichever block is better... use that one.
Measure the bores and get an idea if it's been rebuilt or not. If you cannot check the bore accurately take them both to the machine shop and ask.

Heads
If you are on a budget the d2 heads may have hardened seats. I don't know when they started but maybe someone will confirm that.

Manifolds
I wouldn't use either, I like headers. on a budget? $125 gets you a set at summit

Intake
You obviously want to use the 4barrell. I would check craigslist or locally for an aluminum. Better? maybe, lighter? certainly. If that doesn't matter there is absolutely nothing wrong with an iron intake for your uses.
On another note, I bought an F427 intake on craigslist a few months ago for $75. For me it's worth not having to pick up a manifold in the engine bay.

good luck!
Drew
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:42 AM
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The C8AE-H and D2TE-AA heads are identical. The only difference is they induction-hardened the exhaust valve seats for unleaded gas. The problem is, the hardening disappears over time because of the exhaust valve slapping into it, and if they need to be cut AT ALL, usually the hardening is completely gone.

So, I'd still get hardened exhaust seats installed. But again, both heads are identical castings, or at least, close enough not to matter.

The blocks, you might stick with the truck one (DxTx), but I'd it checked before you do anything. A sonic check will determine how far you can bore it, but any stock block should be able to go .030" without issues.

As for manifolds, I'd go with headers anyway. The stock "logs" are just that - logs. If you are interested in any sort of performance, headers are the way to go.
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Handegard
Heads- (Higher compression? Better valves? Anything?)
C8AE-H No hardened valve seats.
D2TE-AA Hardened valve seats.

Exhaust Manifolds (Good, Bad, crap?)
LH C8AE-9431-B 1968/71 Galaxie/LTD 390, not original to the truck.
RH C5TE-9430-C F100/350: 1965/67 352 / 1968/76 360/390
The C8AE Passenger Car exhaust manifold has the collector in a different location than the one (C8TE-BA = C8TZ-9431-B) for the F100/350.

C8TZ-9431-B .. L/H Exhaust Manifold-1968/76 F100/350 360/390.
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:43 PM
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Blocks: Regardless of apparent condition, either block will need to be sonic checked before rebuild.
The book I have states the C7ME-A block as a 428 block. These books are well known to have conflicting info though so if anyone can confirm this, or if you know of this casting in another cid, that would be helpful.
Do a search on this forum on the drill bit test.
If it is a 428 block then you could use it or sell it to make some $$ (assuming it checks out with the sonic). 428 blocks @ std or +.030 are worth considerably more than a 360/390/410 block.
The D4TE block often has the extra webbing around the mains (you'll have to check). So it is also a good block.
Either one will be fine for your intended use.

Heads: as stated by Krewat

Exhaust: ditch the logs

Intake: It's up to you if you want to use the hernia inducing 85lb D5, or find a cheap aluminum one on CL, Ebay, or from someone around here. I've got a couple I'd be willing to let go pretty cheap. PM me if you're interested.
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:58 PM
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Since the FE blocks were all cast as 352's and the casting number on the block is a foundry mark that cannot be cross referenced to a Ford part number...

Any casting number you find on the block is worthless for ID'ing what size the engine is., or what vehicle(s) it was used in.

Some of these blocks have 352 cast onto them. Is the engine a 352? Maybe yes, maybe no.

I've seen all sorts of references where peeps claim the engine is one size or another based on its casting number, but they are basing this info on their specific engines.

Another engine may have the same casting number, could be a 332/352/360/361 (1958 Edsel only)/390/406/410/427/428. A C7ME marked block could be a 352/390/410/427 or 428.
 
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:52 PM
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I hear ya bill.... seems like for years the only Fe's I had were 105's and 352's

On another note, after reading jay browns book and looking at all the dynos, it seems the smart thing to do with a 428 block is to sell it and buy a 4.25 stroker kit.
 
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:32 PM
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If one of the blocks had been more likely to bore further, I'd have kept it for later use. I'll do the drill bit test I suppose, see what I find.

While I don't have casting numbers, I also have a ~70s 361 available. I did a little reading last night, and that may be the block to keep for later use. I'll try and dig into that trucks engine bay and find out what it's got.
 
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Handegard
While I don't have casting numbers, I also have a ~70s 361 available. I did a little reading last night, and that may be the block to keep for later use. I'll try and dig into that trucks engine bay and find out what it's got.
The 361 is an FT (not an FE) engine. These and like 330 2V M/D & 330 2V H/D, 391 4V FT's were installed in 500 series and larger trucks 1964/78 (330 M/D's will also be found in 1973/78 U-Haul F350's).

The 361 is a boat anchor, is based off the 330 H/D & 391 4V. No aftermarket performance parts are available for FT engines, AFAIK.
 
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Old 05-11-2011, 04:49 PM
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Bill, he's talking about the block itself, which is actually usable to build an FE.
 
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Old 05-14-2011, 12:43 AM
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Exactly, the 361 block can be used with regular FE parts. The FT is just a variation of the FE.

Surprise surprise, my '75 390 that I picked up for this swap has beautiful new looking Clevite .010 over bearings, and a new set of gaskets that just peeled right off. Valves and springs look new. It's obviously been rebuilt very recently.

We're going to hot-tank the iron parts, put it back together with a fresh coat of paint, and install it.
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:07 PM
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Been thinking about adding a clutch fan to a 74 F100, auto, 360 engine! I dont think Ford offered Clutch Fans for these engines, but does anyone know of a Ford style clutch fan and blade combo that might work?

Thinking mabe one out of a passager car with 428 LTD might work, I know my dad had a 68 LTD with 428 and it had one! Mabe Number Dummy could give some old Ford part numbers for this!
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cwj99
Been thinking about adding a clutch fan to a 74 F100, auto, 360 engine! I dont think Ford offered Clutch Fans for these engines, but does anyone know of a Ford style clutch fan and blade combo that might work?

Thinking mabe one out of a passager car with 428 LTD might work, I know my dad had a 68 LTD with 428 and it had one! Mabe Number Dummy could give some old Ford part numbers for this!
A clutch fan (cools the clutch?) has never been offered by any automaker in any period AFAIK.............. now a fan clutch, thats a different story........
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:47 PM
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Mustang and Cougars used a clutch fan on the FE's. Not sure which app is best for you but check out the Hayden website. Hayden - Home The Mustang and Cougar fans can get expensive and there's a few different bolt pattern sizes. I'm sure you can find something workable. Some of the Hayden clutches use a brass spacer on the water pump snout for the FE application. Be sure it's in the box if you buy one.
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:02 PM
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I stand by my post........no clutch fans ever....................
 


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