The above is pretty much it for the rear "lift" thing. If you want a level truck you can do an add-a-leaf or a lift block for a cheap way to pick the rear up an inch or 2 so as to sit level.
These trucks tend to sit higher in the rear, so when lifting the front some people don't even mess with the rear if they are doing things for a stance/looks only thing. By doing this the front sits slightly higher than the rear. I've had 35" tires on a stock rear with autofab 4" lift front. Note you'll need to do some fender trimming or fiberglass fenders on the front for 35's.

Like mentioned above though, many of the people buying the autofab kits are after performance and that's when they go to Deavers or similar. This is done for ride quality but mainly for wheel travel. Often with the deavers they are paired with a longer shackle or even a drop shackle hanger and a longer shackle. This allows the spring to droop out more for more downward travel and then the longer shackle allows the spring to compress more on full bump.

If you want to get "crazy" or creative on the cheap there are lots of write-ups online about how to put a set of newer leaf springs (Chevy 64" leafs are the common one) to help with ride quality, wheel travel and stance. Keep in mind this is time consuming and slightly involved to do right as you'll be relocating your front and rear spring perches and will need to run a longer shackle most likely, etc. I got into this a bit in my supercab build thread and also my crew cab build thread as I had deavers on each truck. Crew cab uses 4" lift deavers for a 2004ish Chevy 2500 and the supercab had Deaver "link killers" which are a super high arch, spring under (leafs go under the axle tube instead of on top) that offers a ton of wheel travel.

 

So not saying I know anything but the way I lifted my 77 F100 on the cheap is the following.

1) I got F150 leaf springs for the rear from a junk yard. They have an extra leaf and although they don't provide much lift they let you haul a little more.
2) I got these shocks for both the front and rear. Gabriel 43099 (Rear) Gabriel 34058 (front).
3) I have a 300I6 so it is a lighter engine. I got the front springs for a 460 and bolted those in which nets a couple inches of lift since the engine was lighter.
4) I used 1~ inch lift blocks in the back to level everything out. I would do the front end first and then figure out the lift block you need to make it level.

 

How is the ride quality with the stiffer springs in there (both front and rear)?
And how is the camber and associated tire wear on the front? Wondering if the 460 springs lifted it enough that it would affect wear on the tires.

 

So I have driven this truck since I was 16 and I'm now 42.... I changed everything out about 15 years ago. The ride quality is definitely stiff when there is no load but I wouldn't call it uncomfortable. Compared to my 89 jeep with 4 inch lift springs it's a lot softer. The handling is better than when it was stock in my opinion, I can still take corners at a good clip and feel in control. I have gone through 2 sets of tires and I haven't seen any weird wear issues. You could check this before you buy anything by lifting the front of the truck from the body and see how the suspension reacts. I also replaced all the bushings when I did it. I would think the I Beams is where the issue will be but I didn't have one.

 

Thanks for the info/feedback. The reason I asked on the tire wear is that in lifting (or lowering) these trucks without bending the i-beams to compensate you will get wacky camber and therefore have the tires wearing more on the outside of you have lifted, or inside if you have lowered. Sounds like the 460 coils didn't lift enough to make this noticeable which is good.

 

I was worried about that as well but a couple of inches didn't seem to make a difference but hard to say if this is going to be true for every truck.