potential project need some advice
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: coldlake Alberta
potential project need some advice
hey guys im looking at a 66 F-100 i found up in alberta canada. the drivers floor boards have rotten through and there is some rust on the back wheel wells that arnt rusted through yet with some smaller rust spots around (all surface). now the big problem he lent the truck to a friend who was driving it and heard a loud CLANK and the engine stopped dead. now it wasnt leaking any fluids and didnt start smoking but as of right now the truck wont turn over. any ideas on what caused that? but after all that he is only asking $700 obo and im sure i could talk him down to at least $500. what do you think? trash bucket or potential gem? (will post pics once i have them)
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2005
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From: Spokane, WA
Depends on how bad you want it. Sounds like it will need a motor. I bought a 65 Custom Cab with solid floors and a good running 352 with automatic for $800. You could probably do a little better with the same or not much more money. Lots of those around here in the Pacific Northwest.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Chino Hills
In Canada I guess it would be a gem. You can make your own floor boards with sheetmetal, and a bead roller.
Well if the engine stopped dead I am thinking something major broke. I wouldn't worry about it, and try to get the price lower. Like say $300.
Ford used the FE in tons of vehicles for many many years. So getting a suitable re-placement here in the states is easy. Learn to search craigslist. Look for a C6 when your getting the newer motor. There tough as anything ever made.
Well if the engine stopped dead I am thinking something major broke. I wouldn't worry about it, and try to get the price lower. Like say $300.
Ford used the FE in tons of vehicles for many many years. So getting a suitable re-placement here in the states is easy. Learn to search craigslist. Look for a C6 when your getting the newer motor. There tough as anything ever made.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: coldlake Alberta
thats what i was thinking. in canada here these trucks are harder and harder to find and any parts i need i would have to bring up from the states besides an engine i could find a new engine up here pretty easy. with the V8 352-CID is there any other engine that would fit the mounts? or would i have to find another 352? and could i put a newer 352 from a 67?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Had simular situation with the 65 w/ the 390, piston siezed and snapped the connecting rod, fortuanately I was able to coast to a turnout, no evidence of any problem no water in oil pan, oil leak, etc. Might try draining the oil and check for metal, may end up having to pull the pan. Hopefully nothing as serious; however, if find simular problem may check to determine if engine can be bored and rebuilt, believe the max piston bore is around .60 over, which is what I ended up doing. Later found a created long block would have been cheaper.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2005
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From: Spokane, WA
thats what i was thinking. in canada here these trucks are harder and harder to find and any parts i need i would have to bring up from the states besides an engine i could find a new engine up here pretty easy. with the V8 352-CID is there any other engine that would fit the mounts? or would i have to find another 352? and could i put a newer 352 from a 67?
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Freshman User
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From: coldlake Alberta
so i could put a 390 from any truck up to 76 and it would just bolt right in? no new mounts no conversion kits nothing?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: coldlake Alberta
well this is good news then i like the 390's and they are a dime a dozen. so as long as the rust is not to bad this sounds like it could be a good project then. the trucks drive train is good he was driving it daily until the engine went so i know there wont be to many problems with that. but if i changed to a 390 wouldnt i need to change up some wiring?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Texas
I would view the dead engine as a negotiating tool.
I've bought multiple antiques over the years with non-running/siezed engines and solid bodies, but I've limited these purchases to vehicles with very common (and therefore easily replaceable) engines.
As someone else mentioned above, I would negotiate the price down to below $500, then start your search for a drop-in replacement engine.
As an example, a little over a year ago, I bought a Plymouth Valiant with a near perfect body and interior for less than $300. The slant six had a warped head and was siezed up tight. I trailered it home, pulled the slant, dropped in an identical one (that I paid $150 for) and had it running, all within a few weeks. All total, I had less than $600 in the car, even after replacing some other things like shocks, etc.
I've bought multiple antiques over the years with non-running/siezed engines and solid bodies, but I've limited these purchases to vehicles with very common (and therefore easily replaceable) engines.
As someone else mentioned above, I would negotiate the price down to below $500, then start your search for a drop-in replacement engine.
As an example, a little over a year ago, I bought a Plymouth Valiant with a near perfect body and interior for less than $300. The slant six had a warped head and was siezed up tight. I trailered it home, pulled the slant, dropped in an identical one (that I paid $150 for) and had it running, all within a few weeks. All total, I had less than $600 in the car, even after replacing some other things like shocks, etc.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2005
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From: Spokane, WA
Wiring will be the same, just use your distributor if you get a later 390, mounts will be the same. You may have to swap the oil filter adapter if you use a motor out of a car. Also some of the early 60's FE's have different motor mount holes so I'd avoid those.
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Freshman User
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From: coldlake Alberta
thanks for all the advice guys. my biggest problem is that this is my first rebuild and i tend to get a bit of the "buyers eyes" when im looking at potential projects. so how much rust would i need to see before i say hell with it? he tells me the rust around the wheel wells is not throught yet but it may be thin enough to put a finger through i wont know until he sends me pics of the damage. and does anyone know a good website for ordering pannels and parts for these trucks?
Freshman User
Joined: May 2011
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From: North Texas
LMC has panels in my catelog. They're pretty good about sheet metal I've heard ( no personal experience ). I did pick up my 66 f100 (although in Texas) for just under $500 and I had to buy a battery and clean a carb for it to run and drive. $700 sounds steep, and I think he's probably just fishing to see what he can get, knowing he has a blown motor and a rusty body. I would go with what Ziegel said and not pay more than around $300. JMO
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 562
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From: Texas
You mentioned that this is your first rebuild.....another question for you....
Is it your first old car?
If so, I recommend getting something that you can drive....either immediately, or only after doing a one-for-one, no modifications engine swap.
Otherwise, I'm afraid you'll end up having a broken truck in your possession that will sit there for a long time and sour you on the whole experience.
Is it your first old car?
If so, I recommend getting something that you can drive....either immediately, or only after doing a one-for-one, no modifications engine swap.
Otherwise, I'm afraid you'll end up having a broken truck in your possession that will sit there for a long time and sour you on the whole experience.