I was doing some pondering in the garage last weekend and came up with this simple contraption. I read somewhere here about a member using a basketball needle to grease his BJ's and I decided to try it. After some fine tuning and some cussin' I came up with this. Needle threaded into a fine thread nut and a grease zerk on the other side. I cut the end of the needle off with some dykes but I recommend a dremel with a cutoff wheel as I crimped it and had to squish it back open with pliers.
I took a 1/16" drill bit and poked a hole into the boot of the BJ's and TRE's, inserted the needle already attached to the grease gun and slowly pumped some grease into the boots. BJ's took around 12 pumps whereas the TRE's 7 or 8 IIRC, but I pumped until some grease squeezed out the hole when I removed the needle. Not sure about poking the hole in the boot so flame me if you must but its only 1/16", almost self-sealing after some of the grease spooges out. A good grease tip is important as I tried several I had and a new one with a tight seal against the zerk produced minimal grease spooging out. Might help if the grease is warmer, it was a cool day when I did it and warm grease flows better. My apologies if this has already been discussed or if I stole someones idea, it was unintentional.

 

Good idea, its sad that OEM manufacturers no longer put in zerk fittings.

Just FYI, you can buy the needle grease fitting at the store for about 5 bucks.

I have one and use it in all my sealed suspsension cars.

 

Didn't know that, thanks! Buy I had a few minutes to goof off and being an equiptment operator I have spare zerks and a few grease guns. Maybe next time I'm in an auto parts store I might pick one up. My set-up works OK but if the manufactured one works better I'm all about it!

 

Probably a good idea. If the greasable ones need periodic greasing, the non-greasable ones probably ought to get it too.



Wow D8, you said: "dykes", "BJ", "spooging", and "poking the hole" all in one post! I'm proud of you!

 

Sssshhhhh! I slipped it past the mods

That was my thinking, especially with a leveling kit, more strain on the BJ's I did the tie rod ends also. We have a saying in running and maintaining heavy iron- grease is cheaper than parts. Especially when it comes out of my pocket.

 

Pretty cool, Tim.

 

I have used one on my Mustang for the past 15 yrs. Works great.

I saw all of your innuendo's there D8

 

I actually did not intend to have an X-rated post, didn't think about it until n578md pointed it out and just played along. I will edit it or you can if you wish as I do not wish to offend or get a vacation.

I guess you were the one I read about because I remember you said you had used it on your Mustang. Thats what got me to thinking and tinkering.

 

I have a new 2010 F 150 with just 3000 miles on it and haven't been under it yet. I am assuming that is has No grease fittings- is this correct?

Thanks

 

That is correct

 

Quote frome above post: " We have a saying in running and maintaining heavy iron- grease is cheaper than parts." I thought that was my saying.................been saying that for over 20 years...............BTW I'm a heavy equipment/truck mechanic..............LOL

 

FWIW: You didn't actually get any grease into the 'working part' of the ball joint. The actual ball/socket part. You just filled the boot.

 

Thats what someone else told me. This is good input. Consider me the guinei pig here, my thinking was that somehow it would work itself into the working parts. Maybe I'm wrong, but I didn't figure it would hurt. Thank you sir for the input. Maybe I need to provide a disclaimer with my post- try at your own risk!

 

Not true. Mine was squeaking which is why I did it in the first place. After greasing, the squeak goes away for 6 months or more. So yes, the grease does get into the ball area of the ball joint.

 

I have no problem with that post