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Ok as some of you know I have been battling a starting issue since March. I have replaced my ICP, my IDM, IPR, and my fuel filter. I have done the 50cent mod along with checking all connections.I also did the Hutch mod and installed an inline filter. It seems like when I replace something it works for a couple weeks then the start comes back again. I have checked my hpop resavoir several times sometimes its full sometimes its half empty not consistant tho. The other day in the driver thru I shut my truck off to order and went to restart and would not restart. I had it towed to my work and put it on the scanner. I can't remember exact numbers its been a few days but after 3 or 4 trys my ICP wouldn't go over 350psi.1st try only went to 128psi and it went up a little more each try. On the 5th try it finally cranked. I let it run for a few shut it off and tryed to restart and it wouldn't. I checked the hpop res and it was half empty. So I picked up an IPR from ford and that didn't change anything. I'm on the wire about it being my lpop but it seems to Run perfect once its running with the exception of sometime right after start up it seems like a cylinder or two is down but that only last 20-40seconds. Also once it starts it doesn't stall. Here are 3 video's of my gauge. 1st video it was sitting all day temp is 85* degrees today. After it started i let in run 30 seconds and the shut down for 30 seconds. 2nd video shows this restart. I let it idle for 5 minutes and shut it off for a mintue or so and the 3rd video shows the results.
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Almost looks like your oil pressure isn't coming up as fast as it should. The first video shows the oil pressure below the low psi cutoff. What code is stored?
I don't think it's a low pressure issue or it would be starting everytime after the first start up. He's getting oil to the hpop. The gauge proves that. Why does the it take so long for the gauge to come up, this is my thought, what ever is bleeding off the pressure is enough for the res to stay at 0 psi till the lpop can catch up. It coul be a lil worn but not the prob right now. Have you monitored the dc while cranking to see if the ipr is being commanded to do what it's supposed to do? If so I'm thinking an injector o ring! If your pump was the problem I'm not sure it would crank at all. What pressure's do you see from the hpop once it is running?
And that cheek engine light every time you rev it, maybe that's from the icp getting out of range like when your down on and it's the pressure is above or below desired. And maybe the prob is making it come on even at idle. We do need to know what code shows up after that!
I've having p1316 for a while replaced IDM and It went away for maybe 2 weeks. Its been back for a few weeks now. It doesn't always come on but usually around 1200-1600 rpms it usually come on and goes away. On the buzz test I have p1292 cyl# 2 last time I had the covers off and checked everything and it all seems good. I am planning on pulling off my covers Saturday and looking into it more. I do fill the resavaoir when its low but it doesn't seem to change once the oil has warmed up a little bit it just doesn't want to start. One of the times it was warm I tried it wouldn't start so I put a small whiff of starting fluid in and it fired up and didn't miss a beat. Once it starts it runs awesome as long as I want but as soon as I shut it off thats it.
Once running my icp is around 540 at idle and goes up to 1800 when revving. While cranking my IPR dc goes up to 64%. After some of the long cranks i get p1211 and p1212
No more starting fluid! So you haven't pulled your vc's since you've been fighting this? Well I guess you have if you did the .50 mod but did you watch it running while they were off? You will want to watch it while it's trying to crank. Id crank on it when it cold so you have a chance to see where the oil is coming from and at that time there will be very little in the top end so if there is a leak it will jump out at you. Also these injectors wont fire till they hit close to 500 psi. Maybe with the oil being a lil warmer after you two trys it is thin enough it makes it that much harder to build pressure! Let us know how it goes!
What is your battery voltage while cranking for those extended times?? May be that your symptom is the sum of different problems. Generally I believe you need to see 10.5v at the IDM to fire the injectors. It's kinda hard to hear on the video, but there is a distinct change in the pitch of the engine will cranking when the injectors stop firing.
Yea no more starting fluid!! I just wanted to see if it would start and stall. I am planning on taking off my valve covers and looking for leaks saturday. See what I can find. I also am waiting on the o-ring combo and servicable plug from Clay because the botton of my hpop has oil residue on it.
I had it on the charger all day friday and a little bit today. I've been fooled by it in the past having less then 10.5 volts in the past so my DVOM has been on my console through all of this.
If i had a cracked injector cup or leaking o rings would that affect drivability? Because it runs smooth and has plenty of power when its running. I also have no oil consumption.
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