no head lights???
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,243
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From: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada
no head lights???
i have a 2001 ranger xlt supercab 4x4, with a 4 litre, auto. i have a problem with the headlights. i don't have any headlights at all. i don't have any low beams, or high beams. i do have the factory driving lights in the bumper,and they do work properly. also if i pull back on the turn signal lever, i get the high beams. i have checked all the fuses,they are all good. i even swapped out the fuses to see if there may be a faulty one i had over looked. i took the dash apart and looked at the light switch,it looked fine too. i did clean the copper contacts on the switch just for extra percautions. if i run a hot wire from the possitive side of the battery to the headlight fuse i get high beams on constantly, and you cannot turn them off with the switch.they are on all the time until i disconnect the hot wire from the battery. the truck has had the factory daytime running lights disconnected for about 6 years. i don't see how that would have any affect on the headlights not working now. it has never interfearred in the operation of the headlights before. i wonder if there is a relay somewhere that i have missed or something? anyone have any ideas for me to try? -thanks
i was wondering if i have missed a relay or something? 
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nova Scotia
Multi function switch
It sounds like the MF Switch to me. I had to take mine apart and clean it to get the turn signals to work. According to my 97 Ranger shop manual, all of the headlight, fog light, turn signal, hazard, & wiper wiring goes through the MF Switch (turn signal/dimmer/wiper). The contacts are small & the current is high, so the contacts get covered in crud.
Assuming (hate that word) that your '01 has the same wiring as my '97, test for voltage in and out of the MF switch. Use a test light on the red/yellow wire coming from the headlight switch, and the dark blue/orange wire coming from the Power Distribution Box (20A fuse #11). Both go up into the steering column. If voltage is good on both wires with the headlight switch on, then test the red/black & grey/orange wires leaving the column. These go to the fuse panel, the red/black feeds fuses #4 & 8 (10A) which feed the left & right low beams. The grey/orange wire goes to fuse #33 (15A), which feeds both high beams. All of the above depends on whether the color codes & fuse panels didn't change between years.
To get the MF Switch out, first disconnect the battery-you do not want to blow the airbag! You need to remove the covers on the top & bottom of the steering column, take the switch out, carefully dis-assemble (*note the spring location*), and clean all of the contacts, I used a Dremel tool, buffer wheel, & jewelers rouge. Lube the contacts with some dielectric compound, & put it all back together. It took me about an hour to remove and replace the switch, plus another hour to clean it, not counting the trip to Home Hardware to buy dielectric grease, or the 2 times I had it put together but the spring wasn't in the right place (see ** above). Or buy a new switch and put it in. Good luck.
Assuming (hate that word) that your '01 has the same wiring as my '97, test for voltage in and out of the MF switch. Use a test light on the red/yellow wire coming from the headlight switch, and the dark blue/orange wire coming from the Power Distribution Box (20A fuse #11). Both go up into the steering column. If voltage is good on both wires with the headlight switch on, then test the red/black & grey/orange wires leaving the column. These go to the fuse panel, the red/black feeds fuses #4 & 8 (10A) which feed the left & right low beams. The grey/orange wire goes to fuse #33 (15A), which feeds both high beams. All of the above depends on whether the color codes & fuse panels didn't change between years.
To get the MF Switch out, first disconnect the battery-you do not want to blow the airbag! You need to remove the covers on the top & bottom of the steering column, take the switch out, carefully dis-assemble (*note the spring location*), and clean all of the contacts, I used a Dremel tool, buffer wheel, & jewelers rouge. Lube the contacts with some dielectric compound, & put it all back together. It took me about an hour to remove and replace the switch, plus another hour to clean it, not counting the trip to Home Hardware to buy dielectric grease, or the 2 times I had it put together but the spring wasn't in the right place (see ** above). Or buy a new switch and put it in. Good luck.
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