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pulls to the right

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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #1  
n20's Avatar
n20
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pulls to the right

truck was pulling to the right so i went and had it aligned and all was good. they told me to swap the two front tires and see if the pull switched, it did and pulled slightly to the left. well two rotations later it pulled hard to the right, seemed worse the faster you go. so i had them rotate them again and it still pulls to the right but not nearly as bad. I think it could be a radial pull in that tire, but it is now on the right rear after the rotation. could a radial pull still effect the vehicle when its on the rear tire?

Anything else to look for? Brakes don't seem hung up at all
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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From: Gary,Indiana
First all what was the camber and caster # before and after alignment. I hope they gave you a print out. If NOT I'll bet they just set toe and told you they aligned it. I would say they didn't do a complete alignment or bad front end parts. Or it could be brakes hanging up alittle.
I don't think it would be the tires since you moved it to the rear. I would take it back to the alignment stop and talk to manager about print out. The camber and caster will make a big different even if they are in spec. If left is caster -1.0 degree and in spec and right is -1.6 and still in spec the total differents might need to less to not pull.( I am not sure what spec is on your truck I just used them #'s as an example) Alot of guys will just toe in more and hope the customer doesn't say anything.
Good luck
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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ya they gave me a print out, and it was about the same before and after. just slight changes. i'll have to see if i can find it and maybe scan it on here.

Checked my b joints and bearings not to long ago and all was tight.
.
Just odd sometimes it seems worse than others, but that could be the differences in the crown in the road.
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #4  
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BadDogKuzz
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From: Gary,Indiana
Originally Posted by n20
ya they gave me a print out, and it was about the same before and after. just slight changes. i'll have to see if i can find it and maybe scan it on here.

Checked my b joints and bearings not to long ago and all was tight.
.
Just odd sometimes it seems worse than others, but that could be the differences in the crown in the road.
That would be great if you can scan it .If not just let me know what the finished # 's are and we'll see if there are any answers there.
And as far as pulling and the brakes. I have my left front caliber hangs up sometimes and it pulls so what I do is head for a pothole and BAM and most of the time it will stop pulling. I need to change my slide pins and clean the caliber mount bracket.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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Here is the alignment details. Won't let me post pics

Left front before:
-0.2 camber
4.6 caster
-0.20 toe (bad)

Left front after:
-0.2 camber
4.6 caster
-0.00 toe (bad)

Right front before:
-0.3 camber
5.1 caster
-0.08 toe

Right front after:
-0.3 camber
5.1 caster
0.01 toe (bad)

front Before:
Total toe= -0.27 (bad)
Steer ahead= -0.06 (bad)

front After:
Total toe= 0.02
Steer ahead= -0.01 (bad)

Left rear before:
-0.1 camber
-0.18 toe

Left rear after:
-0.1 camber
-0.15 toe

Right rear before:
-0.2 camber
0.24 toe

Right rear after:
-0.2 camber
0.20

rear Before:
Total toe= 0.06
thrust angle= -0.21

rear After:
Total toe= 0.04
thrust angle= -0.17


Another thing, not sure how to best describe this but say i hit a bump or a dip with the passenger front, it likes to pull the steering wheel that direction. Whereas if i hit the same with the driver front, it won't want to pull it that direction near as bad. Not sure if there is anything there?
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #6  
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onelionhunter
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shock

Maybe your steering shock is blown or weak on the bumps pulling, not sure that would do anything for normal driving though.
 
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Old May 8, 2011 | 07:57 AM
  #7  
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From: Gary,Indiana
The biggest problem I see with the specs is that you don't have enough toe in !! It needs to be toed in and the fact that they did NOT do anything with caster or camber. Actually camber doesn't look too bad but I would like to see -.5 on both sides and caster within .5 degrees of each other. I don't know why they would have taken the toe out. That and with the caster on the Rt being 5.1 means it is going to want to go the right if the caster was less that the left or the same and NO toe in it would pull either way. At least take it back and make them at least set the toe in more. And it would nice to to see less caster on the right side. But for them to do that they will have to sell you a caster and camber cam kit. Good luck
By the way what kind of alignment machine did they have ?
 

Last edited by BadDogKuzz; May 8, 2011 at 08:09 AM. Reason: And as far as hitting a dip in the road and pulling it is the RT side caster causing that
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Old May 24, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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well i think i may have found my issue. Brakes were making a grinding/rubbing noise tonight, truck was dirty so i washed it. Didn't solve the issue. So i got to looking and the right rear brake rotor the inside surface was rougher than rough. i wonder if that brake is hangin up. looks like pads and a new rotor are in order.....

odd that just the inside is trashed (??)
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 07:56 AM
  #9  
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That means that your caliper is hanging up. Check the slide pins all around'
then if they won't come apart you will need new ones. When I braked hard
I could feel a clunk then it would pull to right. But I didn't know if it was front
or rear. 3 of 4 were locked and couldn't remove pins so replaced all. Ouch
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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From: Vader
Just my two cents worth, my truck recently pulled to right and drifted to right, shop switched tires, it started pulling/drifting to left (not as bad), turns out I had a bad tire, AND my passanger caliber was sticking, replaced both, now it's perfect.
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #11  
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yeah it pulls to the right constantly, not just braking. But the rotor was really hot as well telling me its hung up. i won't have time til tomorrow night to pull it off and look at it. i hope its just the pins and the rotor can be turned and the pads replaced
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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i think i may also have a bad tire, as i did that as well a few months back and had the same results. i think the brake has just complicated things even more
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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I trusted my brake and Alignment local shop and he says these trucks do this alot, the pins get frozen/sticky, I went ahead and also replaced the driver side at same time for even wear. Brakes are great now.
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by damons
I trusted my brake and Alignment local shop and he says these trucks do this alot, the pins get frozen/sticky, I went ahead and also replaced the driver side at same time for even wear. Brakes are great now.
Your brake and alignment shop did not steer you wrong, these trucks are notorious for the slide pins freezing up in their bores! All four corners, unfortunately.
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by n20
Left front before:
-0.2 camber
4.6 caster
-0.20 toe (bad)

Left front after:
-0.2 camber
4.6 caster
-0.00 toe (bad)

Right front before:
-0.3 camber
5.1 caster
-0.08 toe

Right front after:
-0.3 camber
5.1 caster
0.01 toe (bad)

front Before:
Total toe= -0.27 (bad)
Steer ahead= -0.06 (bad)

front After:
Total toe= 0.02
Steer ahead= -0.01 (bad)

Left rear before:
-0.1 camber
-0.18 toe

Left rear after:
-0.1 camber
-0.15 toe

Right rear before:
-0.2 camber
0.24 toe

Right rear after:
-0.2 camber
0.20

rear Before:
Total toe= 0.06
thrust angle= -0.21

rear After:
Total toe= 0.04
thrust angle= -0.17
Did you happen to notice your rear toe? Total toe is good (should be unless the axle is bent) but you have -0.15 and +0.20 that would be a sign of dogtracking, if your rear axle is shifting, it could make the truck feal like it is pulling intermitently. from thoes # the axle is shifted to the left wich would make it feal like pull to the right.
Just thought I would throw that out there.
 
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