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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 06:43 AM
  #16  
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Oil weight question

Thanks rusty.
I appreciate your imput.
It seems Amsoil is like the NY Yankees in baseball...either you like them or you hate them.
I do like the fact you feel the synthetic does make for easier start over dino.No matter what the weight.Which means it does flow faster through the engine on start ups.

BTW.I hate the yankees.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 09:40 AM
  #17  
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Oil weight question

ok i've got an idea. anybody who has an inductive ammeter take a starter amp draw test with a dino oil in the crankcase and see how many amps it takes to run the starter with the engine cold. then change the oil with your favorite synthetic of the same wt. and do the same test at the same engine and oil temperatures and see if the starter is drawing less amps with the sny. if the oil is flowing better with syn, the starter should draw less amps because the oil pump is "dragging" the starter less. thicker oil puts more stress on the oil pump. i'm talking about cold temps here not 60 degrees maybe like 10.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 04:06 AM
  #18  
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Oil weight question

RedVet, the difference between 10W-30 and 5W-30 is hardly noticable. Viscosity is the resistance of an oil to flow and is measured by pouring oil through a specified orfice and measuring the time (measured in centistokes, if you know what that is! I sure don't, I just read a lot.) The difference in time is very minimal. I can look it up and post it if your interested. My point is, I don't think you have to change your Amsoil from winter to summer viscosity, unless it gives you piece of mind. I run HDD 5W-30 in my PSD year round, and have yet to have to plug it in during the winter here in Ohio, and have yet to have a starting problem

JM2C
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 04:07 AM
  #19  
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Oil weight question

P.S. Just thought I'd open up another can of worms, its walleye fishing time here in Ohio!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 06:43 AM
  #20  
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From: NE JERSEY
Oil weight question

Originally posted by johnp034
RedVet, the difference between 10W-30 and 5W-30 is hardly noticable. Viscosity is the resistance of an oil to flow and is measured by pouring oil through a specified orfice and measuring the time (measured in centistokes, if you know what that is! I sure don't, I just read a lot.) The difference in time is very minimal. I can look it up and post it if your interested. My point is, I don't think you have to change your Amsoil from winter to summer viscosity, unless it gives you piece of mind. I run HDD 5W-30 in my PSD year round, and have yet to have to plug it in during the winter here in Ohio, and have yet to have a starting problem

JM2C

Thanks John.
I haven't made up my mind on the switching to 5w30 for the winter.I'll need to buy some Amsoil by then so I'll have the choice.

I like bass fishing!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 07:52 AM
  #21  
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Oil weight question

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my cars. 10w30 in my '67 F250 and '91 Toyota 4x4, and 20w50 in both Alfa's - year round in Colorado. The difference in weight you are talking about is nill. The thing is, if your using synthetic, your wasting your money if you don't run it 10K mile, and it does get dirty if your driving short trips. Long trips on the highway will allow the oil to "cook" off impurities. You should change the oil filter every 3k miles or so. All the research I've done shows Mobil 1 to be one of the best synthetics. I don't like Amsoil just because of the company, they cost too much for all thier products.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 08:07 AM
  #22  
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Oil weight question

Originally posted by DarkWolf40
I don't like Amsoil just because of the company, they cost too much for all thier products.
Thanks for the reply, DW40.
I'll probably stick with 10w30 Amsoil year round.
My only dislike about Amsoil is going through a distributor.
I don't have to though.
I buy off the shelf from a local spped shop.Amsoil does cost just a little more than Mobil 1 at $5.85 a QT.A bigger saving comes when Mobil 1 is on sale at stores.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 08:27 AM
  #23  
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Oil weight question

Darkwolf, other then using it yourself, what type of research have you done on Mobil 1 vs. Amsoil? Just curious.

Redvet, I know your probably loyal to your local speed shop, but your probably paying about .65 a quart too much.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2003 | 08:32 AM
  #24  
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From: NE JERSEY
Oil weight question

Originally posted by johnp034
Darkwolf, other then using it yourself, what type of research have you done on Mobil 1 vs. Amsoil? Just curious.

Redvet, I know your probably loyal to your local speed shop, but your probably paying about .65 a quart too much.

John I haven't bought any Amsoil for over a 2 years.I bought enough two years ago to get me to this point for my vehicles.
I paid less than $5.85 then.I don't know what the cost at the Speed shop is now.I got that $5.85 for their 10w30 full synthetic off the Amsoil site.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 08:49 AM
  #25  
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Oil weight question

A few years ago I spent some time searching Internet and library. Found an interesting government study. Have since moved and can't find my folder on it, but many oils were tested at extreme conditions. Things like flow rate at very high and low temp, flash point, and chemical analysis, were part of the tests. Mobil 1 was always slightly better in performance. They also tested oil filters for filtering ability only, quality of construction wasn’t included. Purolator was one of the best for filtering down to the smallest size particle. The problem with filters though is that the smaller they filter the easier they will clog up. Fram did not filter very small particles but did not clog up very easy either. It seems this is Frams position and they claim that there is no need to filter as small as many of the others so they have done this by design. They did not rate all oils or filters but the study was interesting and since reading that particular one I’ve been using Mobil 1 and Purolator filters for the Ford and Toyota, and Baldwin filters for the Alfa’s (just because I can’t get Purolator for the Alfa’s). Basically though after reading that study it was clear that most oils and filters are completely acceptable for everyday use as long as you change the oil and filter on a regular basis. Conclusion: Amsoil’s extra price is a waste of money.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 09:12 AM
  #26  
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From: NE JERSEY
Oil weight question

Originally posted by DarkWolf40
A few years ago I spent some time searching Internet and library. Found an interesting government study. Have since moved and can't find my folder on it, but many oils were tested at extreme conditions. Things like flow rate at very high and low temp, flash point, and chemical analysis, were part of the tests. Mobil 1 was always slightly better in performance. They also tested oil filters for filtering ability only, quality of construction wasn’t included. Purolator was one of the best for filtering down to the smallest size particle. The problem with filters though is that the smaller they filter the easier they will clog up. Fram did not filter very small particles but did not clog up very easy either. It seems this is Frams position and they claim that there is no need to filter as small as many of the others so they have done this by design. They did not rate all oils or filters but the study was interesting and since reading that particular one I’ve been using Mobil 1 and Purolator filters for the Ford and Toyota, and Baldwin filters for the Alfa’s (just because I can’t get Purolator for the Alfa’s). Basically though after reading that study it was clear that most oils and filters are completely acceptable for everyday use as long as you change the oil and filter on a regular basis. Conclusion: Amsoil’s extra price is a waste of money.
Well DW40,
I also have done my homework and chose Amsoil.
On Amsoil costing more than Mobil 1.
In most cases unless you get Mobil 1 on sale Amsoil is maybe .25 to .50 more a qt which doesn't break me.
I've said it on this forum.Dino oil has gotten vehicles to 200K without any problems.
It's a preference thing.
I prefer Amsoil oil and Amsoil filters.....you don't.
I do on occasion use a Pure One or a Mobil 1 filter.
We both use what we like.
It's America...that's ok.
 

Last edited by redvet; Mar 29, 2003 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 09:59 AM
  #27  
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Oil weight question

Well now…I detect a bit of hostility there in your response. I’m new here, just wanted to get info once in a while about my 67 F250, didn’t know replying to a request would elicit such a response. Maybe this forum is too weird for me. DW signing off.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 10:30 AM
  #28  
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From: NE JERSEY
Oil weight question

Originally posted by DarkWolf40
Well now…I detect a bit of hostility there in your response. I’m new here, just wanted to get info once in a while about my 67 F250, didn’t know replying to a request would elicit such a response. Maybe this forum is too weird for me. DW signing off.
It wasn't as hostile response.Sometimes typed words look that way versus being spoken.
You gave an opinion as did I.

On the contrary.I appreciated your words and even thanked for them in a earlier post on this thread.

"The difference in weight you are talking about is nill. The thing is, if your using synthetic, your wasting your money if you don't run it 10K mile, and it does get dirty if your driving short trips."

You answered the question I asked.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 12:11 PM
  #29  
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Oil weight question

I use Torco synthetics myself and I am a firm believer in synthetics. We use to have a oil lab at the place I work and I did a comparison of the oil properties of dino oil and synthetics. For quality of base stock and the additive package you can't beat a synthetic.

Just my .02
 
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