I just bought a 1977 f250 and I know the engine has been changed. Does anyone where I can find the engine I'd number on the block so I can Id the engine.

Thanks

 

It won't help much to find a casting code. Within an engine family, the different displacements are virtually identical externally and often have the same castings. Count how many valve cover bolts you have.
5=FE series
6=289/302/351W
7=429/460
8=335 series
Start here and then we can go into more detail once you figure out the engine family.

Edit: Oh and Welcome to FTE!

 

Thanks very much, I will get back to you tomorrow when I have time to look at my truck in the day light.

 

Alright just checked and the engine has 5 bolts on the valve covers.

 

Alright here's what you need to do. Get a wooden dowel that will fit in your spark plug hole. Anything that will fit will work really but it needs to be straight and not metal. Pull a spark plug (might as well pull them all and check them since it's new to you, plus it'll be easier to turn over). Insert dowel and have a friend turn it over by hand from the crank bolt. Mark the dowel at the highest and lowest point of the stroke. The distance between these 2 marks is your stroke. 3.5"=352/360......about 3 3/4" (3.784)=390.....if you happen to get about 4"(3.984)=410/428 <--doubtful but it would be a great find. You never know what has been swapped in.

 

thanks very much I will give it a try

 

I have a '79 F250 Ranger 2wd 400 C6 trans....which I bought from the original family. I have completely removed the block, cleaned, and rebuilt. I can not find a VIN stamped anywhere in the block. I am confident that it is the original 400. A friend with a similar '79 says he had the same problem, and never found a VIN stamp. Does anyone know why this is? Thanks. JC

 

You won't find a VIN stamped on the block.. that's typically a GM thing.

2x with Sleepy...

... and to the best of my knowledge, only 65-67 "K" code Mustangs had a VIN block stamp.

 

Thanks. So then, there's no way to determine if this is a numbers (engine specific) matching vehicle?

 

Nope..

I may be muddying the water but the best you can do is determine if the engine (and various parts for that matter) is "period correct" and configured correctly for your 77 F250 (and for how it was optioned).

For example, if the build date is 1977, then engineering ID numbers (up to D7Tx-xxxx) cast, labeled, or tagged on various parts/harnesses is accurate. Even then, some parts were not re-engineered and may be cast, labeled, or tagged with D3, D4, D5, and D6 for the entire production run of this series.

Are you trying to determine originality or determine what you are working with???

 

I felt accomplished when I found a very straight '79 F-250. Owned by an older man (original owner), and babied it's whole life. I want to be able to brag that it's all original and numbers matching. I am sure that it is, but being accustomed to Mopars, I am surprised that there's no way to determine that it's the original factory motor.

I also found the casting numbers on the transmission and valve body were D7... (1977). Remember truck is 1979. I think the engine had 200K+ worth of oil and grime on it, so it's very possible the C6 trans was rebuilt/changed once. I don't care much about that, but I'm told Ford was using older parts when they did the last year of this model, so maybe it's original?

In terms of value, is numbers matching just not as important on these trucks as it was on my 1969 Ply Barracuda Formula S 383? BTW, I love owning and working on this truck! Thanks for your help.

 

Ah.. I was referring to OP when citing D7nn engineering ID numbers. Yeah, the trans could have been replaced but a D7nn ID would probably be period correct too. If it was replaced, think of the odds that the replacement would also have a period-correct trans given that, we can assume, a trans would last for around 100K miles which puts its replacement in the late 80s or early 90s. C6 trannies were still available until the 90s IIRC.

It is unlikely that there are D9 engineering ID numbers because Ford would not have spent on a one-year only part unless the engineers knew or planned that the specific part would be carried forward into the next series (1980 and forward).

"Numbers matching" on these rigs does not increase value since they are not highly sought after to begin with - unlike vintage muscle where an actual VIN block stamp is a criterion for verification of originality. In my opinion, it would be inaccurate to use the terms "numbers matching" when referring to Fords. Therefore, "period correct" is a more accurate statement for 99.9% of Fords.

I've got a couple of Mustangs (just drivers) and have noted sheetmetal stampings which verify, through deduction, that the quarter panels and fenders are OEM since they are stamped within 30 days of their build dates. For example, my 68 was bucked December 1967 and the trunk lid gutters are stamped with the code for late November 67. It also explains some parts that were never installed because the UAW went on strike in late December 67.

Have fun with your rig and don't worry about correctness unless you want to maintain its correctness. In that case, I'd get a statement from the previous owner as to what had been replaced. In the end, I wouldn't sweat over it. I think it is more a testament that it is still on the road in good condition given their mediocre rustproofing and that these were built to work.. not cushy comfy accessory laden trucks produced these days where engineers put hours and hours into addressing noise, harshness, and vibration.

 

For your original question, here is the casting number location.

 

Thanks guys. I have the casting number from the bottom rear pass side of engine, and we're good there. Using the VIN and seller's info, All indications are that it's an original engine, and I'm good with that. Not having a VIN stamp was a surprise but I'm "code correct" all the way around, and I guess it doesn't get any better than that.

The truck was assembled in SJ CA, sold to a dealer in New Mexico, and bought/driven in Colorado, so the rust isn't too bad. My floor pans need replacing, but other than that, I only have some surface rust. It has never been in a wreck, and I only have dings to deal with when I get to the body.

I don't see a way to attach pictures (I'm a guest member), or I'd send some cool photos.

It may not have all the comforts of a newer truck, but at least I can work on it. Every time I have a problem with my newer company truck, I have to take it in a write a fat check.

Again, thanks - JC

 

302 block number visible with starter removed looks like D3C or D6 or D3G.
There is another number preceded and followed by a screw looking stamp. That number is 3C3. An 80 appears beneath the exhaust manifold. All the numbers are visible with the starter removed. The harmonic balancer is 28oz external imbalance with 3 bolt holes. 6 bolts per valve cover. Any idea what it is?