lifter tap
#1
lifter tap
hello im new to this, i have a 94 f150 300+ thou miles it has wat i think to be lifter tap... just recently pulled engine changed oil pump, dissy, spark plugs, oil pressure unit, and head gaskets set.... pulled lifters disasembled and put back together when doin all other work. it taps through the whole rpm range and at idle truck somtimes does not have oil pressure..... please help 17 and trying to go to collage soon for automotive tech.
#2
You think it's a lifter tap? You're going to school for this, take it apart and find out!
kidding
You made sure you have the correct head gasket right? I've read some stories of people getting what they think is the right head gasket set and the new gaskets have less holes for some reason, despite the part numbers matching up. You didn't have any "extra parts" after you were done with this right? What do you mean by disassembling the lifters?
kidding
You made sure you have the correct head gasket right? I've read some stories of people getting what they think is the right head gasket set and the new gaskets have less holes for some reason, despite the part numbers matching up. You didn't have any "extra parts" after you were done with this right? What do you mean by disassembling the lifters?
#3
That would be the problem. Was it tapping before you pulled the engine and replaced those parts? How was the oil pressure beforehand as well? Are/were you relying on the stock gauge (glorified idiot light) for oil pressure readings, or are you using a real gauge? Lastly, why wouldn't you at least replace the main and rod bearings on a 300K mile engine while you had it out of the truck with the oil pan off?
#5
broke is my main reason for not replacing main bering and yes using the stock gauge for reading dont have oil gauge readily available. i disasembled the lifters by removing the inerworkings of the hydrolic roller and no parts left over from the head gasket set and it comes and goes as oil pressure goes up and down
#7
Sounds like the sender, wire, or gauge is malfunctioning. As other members stated, put a $10 oil pressure gauge on it to find out.
Was lifter tap "THERE" before the disassembly or develop after? If it developed after, you will need to check torque on the stud mounts. Could be just under-torqued and you are not getting the right amount of "seat" needed to open and close.
^^ Someone correct me if I misspoke about the statement above and below.>>>More
EDIT: The lifters themselves could be "tired", but how did the pushrods look? did you ensure you could look clearly thru the end of each one? When you dissassembled the lifters and the pushrods, did you make entirely sure that you put "EACH" back their original places? If not, then you could have very well developed problems since each lifter and pushrod that is re-used, must go back to it's original location due to wear on the ball of the pushrod and the lifter to cam.
Was lifter tap "THERE" before the disassembly or develop after? If it developed after, you will need to check torque on the stud mounts. Could be just under-torqued and you are not getting the right amount of "seat" needed to open and close.
^^ Someone correct me if I misspoke about the statement above and below.>>>More
EDIT: The lifters themselves could be "tired", but how did the pushrods look? did you ensure you could look clearly thru the end of each one? When you dissassembled the lifters and the pushrods, did you make entirely sure that you put "EACH" back their original places? If not, then you could have very well developed problems since each lifter and pushrod that is re-used, must go back to it's original location due to wear on the ball of the pushrod and the lifter to cam.
Last edited by timbersteel; 04-27-2011 at 08:16 PM. Reason: More info
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#8
sorry not goin to school yet trying to fix truck so i can make the trips.... i plan on goin to johnson county KS. then to a high status school like wyotec. sender is new the sound developed after the build wat are the torque specs for the rocker studs. all the parts that i took off were ther-o-ly cleaned. found new set of 16 lifters for 60 just go agead and replace? would a thicker oil help pump up the hydrolic better and faster............ sorry for bad spelling
#9
If you can get the new lifters, that's a plus. I would also spend $25 bucks for some new pushrods. Could be more or less..I forget. I got a set of standard pushrods from Comp Cams on E-bay for about the above price. You want to match new with new. Be sure to get the correct length of pushrod too.
I think I have 18-19 lbs TQ on mine, and IIRC specs are 18-25.
Johnson County...Isn't Lenexa, KS located there? I lived in johnson county in 1999-2000
I think I have 18-19 lbs TQ on mine, and IIRC specs are 18-25.
Johnson County...Isn't Lenexa, KS located there? I lived in johnson county in 1999-2000
#10
ill try to save up the money for it do you think thicker oil will help my pressure issue? and ya i think lenexa is in that area.... i lived in garder ks in 1996-1999 then moved to osawatomie ks <---- worst place for a cars suspension. thanks for the help tho guys really appreciate it ford is kinda new to me i pre-fure 4 cylder honda v-tec moters but also love my 351
#12
osawatomie!!! Lived there too! Lived in garnett also.
You could try some 15-40 or 15-50 to see if it helps, but I can't say for sure. what torque were you dialed into when set the rocker arm bolts?
New cam not necessary. You need new lifters if either you mixed them up on install and did not get them back into their individual homes from the factory or if they are indeed not performing correctly.I f you ever want to change the cam, you will have to change the lifters. You can do new pushrods and new lifters fine as long as the cam is still working fine.
You could try some 15-40 or 15-50 to see if it helps, but I can't say for sure. what torque were you dialed into when set the rocker arm bolts?
New cam not necessary. You need new lifters if either you mixed them up on install and did not get them back into their individual homes from the factory or if they are indeed not performing correctly.I f you ever want to change the cam, you will have to change the lifters. You can do new pushrods and new lifters fine as long as the cam is still working fine.
Last edited by timbersteel; 04-28-2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: More info..
#13
did not torque because i have broke them before so kinda scared to tighten them to tight lol just makes me mad..... so many new parts and now a new problem and now that i think about it no they are not in the original home from factory. ya mind telling me wat the numbers on the oil means was told once but forgot.......
how in the world did you get out of this hell hole of osawatmie?
how in the world did you get out of this hell hole of osawatmie?
#15
Sorry 'bout the numbers on the oil, I just forgot the "W". 15w-40 or 15w-50 would fine. Smply the 15w will pump up fine in the block until colder weather, limit's it's pumpability factor. Think of molasses @ 20 or 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
The $356 for a rebuild kit, where did you source parts from? Jegs, summit, another retailer? If you went with just new standard lifter and pushrods you would only be looking @ maybe $100. I know $100 is a $100, and if you are pushing paycheck to paycheck it's another dollar that could be going to utilities, gas, food, rent or mortgage, and other endless other things before you can start dumping into a vehicle.
If indeed you did not torque the rocker arm bolts to spec, you could have a an easy fix, just by loosening them completely up and then torquing each one down with a "Known, Fixed" value. I know what you're thinking, but sometimes the only way to know for sure, is to redo it. But if I had to go back into it, then yes, I would have the new lifters and new pushrods before having to tear into once again.
Only reason I got out of there, was because I worked for a pipeline outfit, so we stayed at many different places and back on our way. And yes, there isn't much around there. Have you tried looking in Olathe for work or perhaps anything in Chanute?
Hope this helps.
The $356 for a rebuild kit, where did you source parts from? Jegs, summit, another retailer? If you went with just new standard lifter and pushrods you would only be looking @ maybe $100. I know $100 is a $100, and if you are pushing paycheck to paycheck it's another dollar that could be going to utilities, gas, food, rent or mortgage, and other endless other things before you can start dumping into a vehicle.
If indeed you did not torque the rocker arm bolts to spec, you could have a an easy fix, just by loosening them completely up and then torquing each one down with a "Known, Fixed" value. I know what you're thinking, but sometimes the only way to know for sure, is to redo it. But if I had to go back into it, then yes, I would have the new lifters and new pushrods before having to tear into once again.
Only reason I got out of there, was because I worked for a pipeline outfit, so we stayed at many different places and back on our way. And yes, there isn't much around there. Have you tried looking in Olathe for work or perhaps anything in Chanute?
Hope this helps.