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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jas88
This isn't an EFI motor, is it? It is my understanding the EFI motors already have the old-style 0 degree timing set.
No.
This is a carburated motor.
The EFI motors are not 'retarded', but they do not have the nylon coated gears and hy-vo chain that quickly wear out either.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jas88
He said it "equates to like 4 degrees advanced ". I took this to mean installing the "straight-up" timing set would advance his cam 4 degrees from stock, since the stock set would be retarding the cam 4 degrees from 0.

This isn't an EFI motor, is it? It is my understanding the EFI motors already have the old-style 0 degree timing set.
Yes sir. It is my understanding that it was a 4 deg retard stock. Putting it 4 degrees advanced from that is 0. Or do I have that backwards? Say I get a Cloyes DR and then set it with the dot and keys lined up, that should be what I want right?

I also don't have the tools or experience to degree a cam. So I was hoping I didn't need to. Next on the list after this is a dizzy recurve. My neighbor and my uncle say that headers are pointless as one has to retighten them all the time, I am going to buy them anyway. I figure the risk it worth the reward.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
My neighbor and my uncle say that headers are pointless as one has to retighten them all the time, I am going to buy them anyway. I figure the risk it worth the reward.
Your neighbor and uncle are obviously fans of buying the ****tiest cheapest parts available...

Make sure u get headers with nice thick flanges.


Ive had a set of Kooks headers on my GTO for 5 years and 60,000+ miles
Never re-tightened them
 
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:07 AM
  #19  
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Good to know. This straight up timing install doesn't seem that hard. I just have to make sure its rotated to zero on the balancer, check for it pointing at the #1 cyl at the dizzy, check for tdc #1 cylinder, then swap in a new style +4 key set. Going to give it a good ole college try! Headers will be down the road, I was going to buy everything until I realized how expensive y pipes are. I just wanted to do headers into a 3 inch pipe back to a muffler and out in rear of pass tire. Apparently I need a y pipe to do that and I don't know what I need. May just be easier to run 3 inch duals and save on the y pipe cost.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by glovemeister
I reaI just wanted to do headers into a 3 inch pipe back to a muffler and out in rear of pass tire. Apparently I need a y pipe to do that and I don't know what I need. May just be easier to run 3 inch duals and save on the y pipe cost.
If you go dials. U may wanna go a bit smaller. Will keep the velocity up. And help with scavenging.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #21  
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I've got a "performance" double roller chain with the gear sets coming in the mail. I was mentioning that to my uncle and the neighbor today as they were helping me work on my pickup, and they said that "there is nothing wrong with the nylon gears, if you change your oil", and that "it won't matter if I run straight up timing anyway, because I will burn valves as my cam isn't set up for that." Near as I can tell its a bolt in and go affair in terms of that, although they have 30+ years of mechanics between them and I have about 5 or less. Any truth to this?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by KrautBurner
If you go dials. U may wanna go a bit smaller. Will keep the velocity up. And help with scavenging.
Well I can get a dual kit, and not have to purchase a y pipe which are damn pricey, in addition to my headers, and exhaust kit. I may run 3 inch out to 4 inch tips after my muffler, incase I ever want to swap out to a diesel.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 11:03 PM
  #23  
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The shards of nylon gears are what clog your oil pickup.
Changing the oil doesn't do a damn thing to clean that crap out of the screen. (wait 'till you try)
Your uncle might ought to have been working on Chevy 350's all those years, Because the asymmetrical cam and exhaust port restriction in the Lima engines almost demand that timing.
My last 460 lasted 315,000 miles, 285,000 of them with the cam advanced.
Leakdown never showed cooked exhaust valves.
Originally Posted by glovemeister
I was mentioning that to my uncle and the neighbor today as they were helping me work on my pickup, and they said that "there is nothing wrong with the nylon gears, if you change your oil", and that "it won't matter if I run straight up timing anyway, because I will burn valves as my cam isn't set up for that." Near as I can tell its a bolt in and go affair in terms of that, although they have 30+ years of mechanics between them and I have about 5 or less. Any truth to this?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #24  
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Ya what Jim said
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
The shards of nylon gears are what clog your oil pickup.
Changing the oil doesn't do a damn thing to clean that crap out of the screen. (wait 'till you try)
Your uncle might ought to have been working on Chevy 350's all those years, Because the asymmetrical cam and exhaust port restriction in the Lima engines almost demand that timing.
My last 460 lasted 315,000 miles, 285,000 of them with the cam advanced.
Leakdown never showed cooked exhaust valves.
I sure do appreciate that bud. I was wondering today they said that "I read into things to much" Well at least I can read lol.

Anyway, I'm going to do it and see what happens. Do you reccomend setting the timing over to 0degrees on the balancer before I pull the front cover off, and then also checking the number one cylinder to see if its btdc?
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 01:15 AM
  #26  
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Yes, rotate the engine to an indicated 0* and check that #1 is at TDC on compression.

Everything else is R&R

Check that the balancer is not scored where the front seal rides and be sure to lube the new seal before reinstalling it.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by KrautBurner
how much difference should this make?
power / tq / milage?
will it still run correctly on regular unleaded?
I don't have any numbers but when it came to pulling the fifth wheel I noticed more difference with the timing gear set than I did going from 3.54's to 4.10's.

Oh, yeah ..... I also got to replace the timing gear cover since mine was cracked!
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #28  
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Thanks Clyde,

that may end up on my list of things to do when time and cash free up

I just got a slide in camper for my 77 supercab.
any little bit will help
when I'm not hauling, it's nice to have those 3.54 gears
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 05:35 PM
  #29  
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Back when Clyde was tote'n an 11'3" slide-in the 3.54's were perfect!

With our first 7,000# Hitchhiker fifth-wheel they worked ..... with the 10,000#'er and our trips to southern Colorado I needed a little more "ooomph".

In hindsight (ain't it wonderful) I likely could have done just as well with 3.73's as with the 4.10's but since it was a major investment at the time and I didn't want to be disappointed I went "all the way".
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #30  
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just another point about pulling your water pump off. There is a bolt that goes into the timing cover right by the fuel pump. Make sure it is the right bolt, not to long. Your fuel pump will hit it and you will break the end of the pump off. It will be garbage and you will have a piece sitting in the pan.
 
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