Starting problem
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
Starting problem
I have an interesting problem with my 86 f150 302 efi.
In 11/09 I replaced my starter, solenoid, alternator, and the safety switch on the transmission as well as the one on the steering column. 2 months ago I replaced all the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and button.
Now the problem:
After sitting all night, I'll go out crank it up no problem and drive 15 minutes down the highway to run some errands. Then, when I come out after 5 or so minutes, I start it up but it cranks really slow like its not going to start at all and then speeds up and starts.
I have no idea what's causing this. Thoughts?
In 11/09 I replaced my starter, solenoid, alternator, and the safety switch on the transmission as well as the one on the steering column. 2 months ago I replaced all the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and button.
Now the problem:
After sitting all night, I'll go out crank it up no problem and drive 15 minutes down the highway to run some errands. Then, when I come out after 5 or so minutes, I start it up but it cranks really slow like its not going to start at all and then speeds up and starts.
I have no idea what's causing this. Thoughts?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 2
From: Mexia, TX
If it's cranking slowly, that's gonna point to either the starter or the starter solenoid. If it was an ignition system problem, it'd crank normally but wouldn't run properly or at all. Sometimes the carbon brushes inside the starter don't make good contact like they should or the moving parts that hold the brushes get hung up.
Get the starter tested, auto stores usually test them for you for free. Couldn't hurt to pick up an extra solenoid too.
Get the starter tested, auto stores usually test them for you for free. Couldn't hurt to pick up an extra solenoid too.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
If it's cranking slowly, that's gonna point to either the starter or the starter solenoid. If it was an ignition system problem, it'd crank normally but wouldn't run properly or at all. Sometimes the carbon brushes inside the starter don't make good contact like they should or the moving parts that hold the brushes get hung up.
Get the starter tested, auto stores usually test them for you for free. Couldn't hurt to pick up an extra solenoid too.
Get the starter tested, auto stores usually test them for you for free. Couldn't hurt to pick up an extra solenoid too.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Ford (Motorcraft) ignition modules have a feature wherein the ignition timing is automatically retarded on (warm/hot?) startup, this feature helps prevent this exact problem.
Aftermarket modules generally don't have this feature.
Is your ignition timing perhaps too far advanced?
Aftermarket modules generally don't have this feature.
Is your ignition timing perhaps too far advanced?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
This took me a few days to figure out but it actually makes sense.
My problem involved the air temperature sensor which is located on the drivers side of the intake manifold near the fuel rail. Replaced it and all is well again.
BTW the coolant sensor is located in front of the distributor and the passenger side under the big air hoses.
See, I thought that the coolant temperature sensor was there and since each sensor is the same size I replaced the air sensor with a coolant sensor and figured I needed to replace the pigtail connector.
I drove it like this for a couple months with the wiring just dangling. Today I woke up and decided to run some errands but before that cut the wires so I could take the connector in and make sure it was the right one. Never made it to the parts store because it kept stalling on me. Finally made it home and pulled each sensor and figured out my error.
My problem involved the air temperature sensor which is located on the drivers side of the intake manifold near the fuel rail. Replaced it and all is well again.
BTW the coolant sensor is located in front of the distributor and the passenger side under the big air hoses.
See, I thought that the coolant temperature sensor was there and since each sensor is the same size I replaced the air sensor with a coolant sensor and figured I needed to replace the pigtail connector.
I drove it like this for a couple months with the wiring just dangling. Today I woke up and decided to run some errands but before that cut the wires so I could take the connector in and make sure it was the right one. Never made it to the parts store because it kept stalling on me. Finally made it home and pulled each sensor and figured out my error.
