I had the fuel pump replaced by a shop on my last vehicle. As like you, I had a full tank when it went bad. When I got the truck back the tank was nearly empty. When I went back in to ask what happened to the rest of the fuel I was told it was all put back in. Well how could I prove it? I guess the mechanic got a free fill up out of the job. Anyhow, I had a friend that replaced his as follows (redneck method). Peeled back cargo area carpet, Cut three sides of a square from floor above fuel pump, bent up the square, changed pump, bent square back down, siliconed cuts. I guess thats one way to do it .

 

how big was that square?

 

Cutting the rear floor to access the fuel pump is not uncommon for large SUV's.

 

I didnt ask, but I imagine just big enough - 8X8? I don't think it's the worst idea but I would be a little worried about throwing something heavy on the square and ripping the silicone seal. I also sleep in the back while camping, I'd be worried about kneeling on it. The same friend changed a fuel pump on his chevy pickup and instead of dropping the tank, he took out the four or six bolts that hold on the bed and slid the bed back a little.

 

Just put a sheetmetal patch on it.

 

What kind of mileage do these things start going out?

At 154,000 miles, I might do it before it fails so I won't get stranded.

 

Mine went south at 110K. Just drive until she goes (buy your replacement one so you can drop the tank and put it in with no delay).

 

From a previous post of mine:

I recently replaced the fuel pump on my 2001 6.8L eXcursion, here is how it's done:

Be really careful. I don't recommend putting cigarettes out in a tank full of gasoline or any other foolishly masculine manuevers. A tiny spark could lead to big trouble, be sensible. moving on.....

1 - Disconect the battery.
2 - Drain as much gas as you can from the tank. This isn't an easy task since you were probably stranded by the failure.
3 - Jack up and support the vehicle to make room to slide the tank from beneath it.
4 - Support the tank (with a trani jack, if possible) or some stable mechanism to lower it safely. I used a floor jack and a block of wood.
5 - Open the fuel door. Remove the gas cap and remove the 3 screws that hold the filler neck in place. This will help when you need to detach the filler hose.
6 - Remove the 4 bolts (2 front - 2 rear) that hold the tank and box to the frame.
7 - Lower the tank slightly, about 2 to 4 inches. Remove the fuel line, return line and breather tube from the plastic keeper. This makes a little room to manuever.
8 - Drop the tank as far down as you can without training any of these lines.
9 - Using the fuel line disconnect tools, insert and detach them. They're different sizes but I marked one of them at this point for easy reference. Remove the breather tube with pliers. Disconnect the electrical connection.
10 - Lower the tank to the ground and slide it out from under the vehicle.
11 - Clean to top of the tank so smudge doesn't fall into the tank.
12 - Using a non-ferous chisle (or wooden peg) tap the locking ring counter-clockwise until it spins off.
13 - Pop of the metal cap and be sure to save the rubber seal, it's re-used.
14 - Look in the tank and make reference of the orientation of the pump and level sensor.
15 - Reach in and press the 2 little tabs on the top of the pump towards each other while applying downward pressure. Pull the assembly straight up, it will be filld with fuel pour it back into the tank.
16 - There is a plastic pressure sensor on the metal cap, remove the electrical connection then push and turn to remove it. re-install it on the new cap.
17 - Carefully insert the new assembly into the tank in the proper orientation, push down until it clicks in place. Besure that the wires don't interfere with the float.
18 - Clean and replace the rubber seal.
19 - Fit the lock ring inplace and tighten accordingly.
20 - Reinstall the tank being sure to secure all connections. Check 'em twice, you don't want to redo this.
21 - Let it sit for a few minutes to disipate any gas or fumes.
22 - Reconnect the battery and turn the ignition on but don't start the vehicle. Cycle the ignition off and on a few times, leaving it on for 10 seconds each time. This purges the air from the lines.
23 - Start it.

I hope this helps others that have to deal with this fairly common issue.

Diamond-X

 

I changed one on a v10 ex in my driveway. The biggest problem was that the sheity china made fuel line tool from Autozogne is not made right, and it took me 5 hours of struggling with it to separate the fuel lines after I had to re shape the tool with my angle grinder.

Another scam of china made junk-those slimy two faced garbage producing pigs need to stop filling up our shelves with useless products. I HATE it!

Any way its an easy job to me, and this was the first tank mounted fuel pump I ever touched.

 

Am I pushing my luck at 154,000 miles? Will a pressure test warn me of imminent failure? I have already changed the filter. I found a good source for Motorcraft parts. I may go on and order the pump and have it done as the budget permits. I don't want to get stranded on the highway.

 

^^ This is a great idea. It's going to go sometime and it's a huge hassle when it does. I was very lucky that mine went as I was moving the X in front of my house. Mine failed at 160,000 miles. Not sure about a pressure test, mine seemed to be fine than..... nothing.

A friends failed in Havasu, Az and cost him $700 and a hotel room.

 

Mine just failed in my driveway about 15 minutes ago. Guess I get to work on it tomorrow?

 

What was your mileage? I've got a new pump in my truck waiting to be put on.

 

165,000 on mine.

 

Be glad it isnt a Chev, done a few and the pump alone is $800.