79 ignition Q's

If you look at the above diagram you will notice the resistor only goes to the coil supply. My manual says it's value can be 1.05 to 1.15 ohms. So I don't see why you couldn't retro-fit one of those big white ceramic resistors the stores sell if it was the right value.
The red wire gets straight 12 volts in the run position.
The white wire gets 12 volts in the starting mode only. It is used to retard the timing about 12 degrees to make the engine turn over easier. It's a nice feature, but can be left out. If you don't want to have to search out the correct place to put the white wire under the dash, you can buy yourself a starter relay that has two little terminals instead of just one. One of the little terminals will engage the starter as it does now, and the extra small terminal will give you 12 volts when in starting mode only. You can hook the white wire, and the coil to this terminal which will give you the retard during start, and the hotter spark during start. The hotter spark during start is what the resistor bypass is for.
Try measuring the voltage at the coil positive terminal. It should have about 12v when the starter is turning, and about 7-8v with the key on. If you get values close to this, then the resistor wire is OK.
What does it mean when the coil makes a high pitch squeal?
The wierd part is when i was trying to test it before i did not even have the red wire connected and it ran.
1. Connect the red DS module wire to a switched 12v source; the
white one can be left disconnected, or wire it as Franklin
describes.
2. Trace the coil positive wire (on the 86) back to the firewall, and
wire in an aftermarket resistor, in series, then run the wire to
the DS coil.
3. The larger DS module plug (4 wires) goes toward the distributor.
One of the 4 wires (green) goes to the coil negative terminal.







