I thought i'd question the forum for ideas for my 5.8 overhaul. It'll be going into my '91 Bronco which pulls a heavy trailer frequently. Interested in boosting torque and horsepower while using the factory fuel injection and ECM. I would go as far as a stroker kit, but need some numbers to kick around.

 

Some guys will chime in soon enough, but i would advice posting this same question in the F-150 (of our same period) section of the site, you will get more answers there. Do it also on the Windsor engines section.

 

For towing, if you have the original gears, I like stock sized tires to address the torque issue. BFG Long Trail Tour to reduce whipping and increase load. Pull codes, tuneup, oxygen sensor, and check timing chain slack.

 

a good free flowing exhaust and gears are your best bet. a cam upgrade to a 35-255-5 would be computer friendly and give some gains also but not Huge gains.

what size tires are you running now?

 

Right now I have 32" tires, 3.50 gears. Good for highway and off road, OK for towing. Current engine is a 5.0L from '89 with .040 overbore, hperetic flattop pistons and a Crane Cams shaft. It really wakes up after 2500 rpms, not good for lugging a tractor around. I have acquired a running 5.8 engine,with harness, 5.8 ECM, and complete underhood wiring harness from a '90 F250. I want the 5.8 for it's torque and mid-range horsepower. But while I have it on an engine stand to check the bearings, heads, crank, etc for wear, it's an oppritunity to do some mods to squeeze a little more out of it. We will also have to keep in mind pump gas around here is 90 octane 10% ethanol, and it's a daily driver! I drive an average of 50 miles to work and back 6-7 days a week.

 

My 5.8 upgrades are as follows:

Ignition: coil, cap and rotor, spark plug wires...let's you bump your timing a couple degrees.

Air flow: K&N air flter, 56mm BBK throttle body, Bassani headers, 2 into 1 high flow cat and muffler w/ 3" exhaust.

Cam: Comp Cam RV as mentioned above.

Transmission: Paul's valve body (kind of like a shift kit)

Wish list: 4:10 gears and custom intake

 

I think the intake tube itself flows really well, the actual intake manifold could use a good upgrade.

 

Get the edelbrock truck performer efi intake. Nicely made and much larger ports than stock. Add a set of headers either shorty or long tube and a better flowing exhaust. A new cam would be useful as well but be sure to get one for a truck application.

 

I'm not sure how far you could take it if its got speed density.

 

Proven mods that really wake up the 5.8 and play nice with the stock EFI system.

Crane 444232 in a flat tappet motor(pre '94) or the Comp 35-349-8 in a roller block('94+).
Longtube headers. You get what you pay for.. Pacesetter, MAC, and Bassini fit well and last, Flowtech, Summit, and Headman don't fit well at all and don't last.
GT40 cylinder heads. Found on '96-97.5 Explorer 5.0, Lightning 5.8, and '94-96 Mustang Cobra. 97.5-2k Explorer got GT40p heads that actually flow even better but create header fitment problems due to the radical spark plug angle.

The intake system isn't as bad as people think and will actually feed a motor with these upgrades.

 

You need 4.10s.. assuming you have an overdrive transmission put it on the list.


That's what a 5.0 does so it needs even more gears.

Whatever you do.. DO NOT remove or change any wiring in your truck.. it's simply not necessary and will just complicate matters. Get your engine ready and put it in where the 5.0 was with a 28oz flywheel/flexplate for what transmission you have, connect it to the original wiring harness and just swap the 5.8 EEC in.. that's it. All trucks of this vintage use batch fired injectors and both these motors are wired exactly the same so no changes are necessary, you just need to 5.8 specific programming in the EEC.

 

Gday mate.

I know my 351 build was a Cleveland, but check out the specs on my motor in my gallery.
(Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - RottenRon's Album: Finally done

I went a bit nuts withe the forged this and that, in this motor, as I had intended to use it in a lot lighter truck and was going to chase a lot more horses. Anyway, you'll get the idea.

I've just ordered a new cam from ISKY, and according to my computer program, will pick up an extra 30 ft/lbs plus.
That will bring this motor up to 470 ft/lbs or so @ 3,000rpm, and about 400 hp.

If you check out some of my other posts, you'll get a feel for what I'm doing with my truck.

I guess you motor is a Windsor, but any increase in stroke, intake manifold vacuum, exhaust scavenging, modest port work and right cam, will give you what you want.

I have a program, that includes 4,500 camshaft files. If you like, give me as many details as you can on what you intend to use in this motor, I'll spit you out a cam and a readout of the out puts.

I know these figures are not "real world" but it's better than shooting in the dark. My motor for instance is remarkable close to the predictions.

Cheers.

 

you may consider going up to 9-1 or 9.5-1 compression ratio also. this is one step i failed to think about with my most recent 5.8 build. I stayed with my stock roller cam also due to funds but will consider a cam swap after the motor has more miles on it. currently its at 3800 miles.

 

Been down that route already! The harnesses are basically the same, BUT, ford in it's wisdom changed the pin locations at the fenderwell connections from year to year. It took me several posts on this forum and a long time following wires from sensors to the ECM to get the engine to run correctly. Hence the complete underhood harness. Might not use it, but I have it to compare to the existing one, as well as spare connectors if I should break one while moving wires to the correct connection. I have the M5 tranny now and am going to "upgrade" to the ZF because it was designed for heavier duty applications.
Will have to do some "shopping" to see what parts I can come up with, the lightning heads sound like fun, I like the Ultra Flow headers I have on my 78/ 460 Bronco. I am sure they make one for the SB fords.

 

Yes exactly and that is why the wiring harness is best left alone, just disconnect everything at the sensors/actuators right on the engine comming out and plug them back into the replacement motor after it's mounted.