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Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 1 of 10
Page 1 of 10
1994-1997 Ford 7.3L Diesel Fuel Bowl Rebuild Instructions
(
DieselOrings.com Kit # 6-002) These instructions are based on a 94-95 fuel bowl and there
are some slight differences between the 94-95 and the 96-97 fuel bowl with port locations but
the largest difference is the type of screen filter on the FPR. The 94-05 has a plastic canister
for the filter where the 96-97 has a flat screen with a plate and cir-clip along with a solid fuel
line coming from the bottom of the fuel bowl.
Begin by draining the fuel bowl by opening the drain valve located at the front of the fuel
bowl. Attach a piece of hose and catch the fuel in an appropriate container. Disconnect the
electrical harness located on the side of the fuel bowl
Remove the lid from the fuel bowl, remove the fuel filter and replace the lid on the bowl. To
remove the fuel bowl from the engine compartment, remove all the fuel lines from the fuel
bowl; remove the two bolts holding the fuel bowl to the block at the bottom of the fuel bowl..
With the fuel bowl on the workbench, you can begin to disassemble the components from the
main canister.
(94-95 ONLY) There is a small check ball and
cover located under the upper fuel bowl drain
valve port. Carefully remove this cup and ball
from the port as you will need to clean the area
and the parts may become dislodged during the
process of cleaning the fuel bowl. Set these
parts aside for cleaning.
are some slight differences between the 94-95 and the 96-97 fuel bowl with port locations but
the largest difference is the type of screen filter on the FPR. The 94-05 has a plastic canister
for the filter where the 96-97 has a flat screen with a plate and cir-clip along with a solid fuel
line coming from the bottom of the fuel bowl.
Begin by draining the fuel bowl by opening the drain valve located at the front of the fuel
bowl. Attach a piece of hose and catch the fuel in an appropriate container. Disconnect the
electrical harness located on the side of the fuel bowl
Remove the lid from the fuel bowl, remove the fuel filter and replace the lid on the bowl. To
remove the fuel bowl from the engine compartment, remove all the fuel lines from the fuel
bowl; remove the two bolts holding the fuel bowl to the block at the bottom of the fuel bowl..
With the fuel bowl on the workbench, you can begin to disassemble the components from the
main canister.
(94-95 ONLY) There is a small check ball and
cover located under the upper fuel bowl drain
valve port. Carefully remove this cup and ball
from the port as you will need to clean the area
and the parts may become dislodged during the
process of cleaning the fuel bowl. Set these
parts aside for cleaning.
Remove the Fuel Drain Valve:
Use a #2
Phillips screwdriver and remove the 2 machine
screws that hold the valve to the bowl. The
extension handle will separate from the valve
once the unit is removed. The keyway is
configured so the handle extension will only
couple with the valve in one position so there is
no need to be concerned with handle
orientation. Set the drain valve aside to be
cleaned with the other parts.
Phillips screwdriver and remove the 2 machine
screws that hold the valve to the bowl. The
extension handle will separate from the valve
once the unit is removed. The keyway is
configured so the handle extension will only
couple with the valve in one position so there is
no need to be concerned with handle
orientation. Set the drain valve aside to be
cleaned with the other parts.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 2 of 10
Page 2 of 10
.
Remove the Fuel Pressure Control Sensor:
This sensor is threaded into the Fuel Bowl
pressure line. On the 94-95 models it is at the
bottom of the bowl while the 96-97 models have
it threaded into the Fuel Pressure Relief body.
Set the sensor to the side to be wiped clean as
it should not be submerged in cleaning solvent.
pressure line. On the 94-95 models it is at the
bottom of the bowl while the 96-97 models have
it threaded into the Fuel Pressure Relief body.
Set the sensor to the side to be wiped clean as
it should not be submerged in cleaning solvent.
When reinstalling this sensor, do not over
tighten as the aluminum casting can easily
be cracked.
Remove the Fuel heater electrical connector
& Water in fuel Sensor
tighten as the aluminum casting can easily
be cracked.
Remove the Fuel heater electrical connector
& Water in fuel Sensor
: The Water in Fuel
sensor will unscrew from the fuel bowl by using
a 9/16” box end wrench. Set it aside to be
cleaned with other parts later.
sensor will unscrew from the fuel bowl by using
a 9/16” box end wrench. Set it aside to be
cleaned with other parts later.
Remove the Fuel Bowl Heater Element:
To
remove the element you will need a 3/4 “
crowsfoot" wrench. The black filter stand pipe
must be removed by un-screwing it from the
fuel bowl. It is a left hand thread and once you
break it loose it will unscrew by hand. Once you
remove the stand pipe, you can reach into the
bowl with a pair of needle nose pliers and
disconnect the heater’s electrical plug.
remove the element you will need a 3/4 “
crowsfoot" wrench. The black filter stand pipe
must be removed by un-screwing it from the
fuel bowl. It is a left hand thread and once you
break it loose it will unscrew by hand. Once you
remove the stand pipe, you can reach into the
bowl with a pair of needle nose pliers and
disconnect the heater’s electrical plug.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 3 of 10
Page 3 of 10
Remove the Fuel Pressure Regulator assembly:
Two 10mm head bolts are all that hold the FPR to
the fuel bowl. The 94-95 models will have a black
plastic canister hanging from the FPR that contains
a screen filter within it. The 96-97 models will have
a hard line fitting connected to a plate under the
FPR. When separating the FPR from the bowl,
there is a small screen that may try to fall out from
between the two bodies. Watch for this screen so
you will not loose it.
The Fuel Heater electrical connector is a little trickier to remove. You must twist the entire
connector to unlock the top tab from under the aluminum locking tab of the fuel bowl. Once
you have turned it 45 to 90 degrees from its original position, using a very thin flat
screwdriver, gently pry the fitting from the bowl by going around the circumference of the
connector. It may take a few times of going around the connector and prying up just a small
amount until the entire fitting lifts from the bowl. By gently prying in various locations around
the connector, you are trying to keep from cracking the unit by putting too much force on
one spot.
the fuel bowl. The 94-95 models will have a black
plastic canister hanging from the FPR that contains
a screen filter within it. The 96-97 models will have
a hard line fitting connected to a plate under the
FPR. When separating the FPR from the bowl,
there is a small screen that may try to fall out from
between the two bodies. Watch for this screen so
you will not loose it.
The Fuel Heater electrical connector is a little trickier to remove. You must twist the entire
connector to unlock the top tab from under the aluminum locking tab of the fuel bowl. Once
you have turned it 45 to 90 degrees from its original position, using a very thin flat
screwdriver, gently pry the fitting from the bowl by going around the circumference of the
connector. It may take a few times of going around the connector and prying up just a small
amount until the entire fitting lifts from the bowl. By gently prying in various locations around
the connector, you are trying to keep from cracking the unit by putting too much force on
one spot.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 4 of 10
Page 4 of 10
Here is the small screen that is located between the
FPR and the fuel bowl. Notice the accumulation of
debris on the screen that almost occludes the flow of
fuel into the FPR. The screen is sitting on what
appears to be a white nylon part that functions as a
bleeder orifice for the FPR. There are two o-rings on
this white bleeder orifice.
Be very careful removing the bleeder orifice as there
is a check ball sitting in the recess below it. This
check ball has a lot of bounce and will be difficult to
locate if it falls out and decides to leave. In this photo
you can see the check ball, bleeder orifice with the
two o-rings, the sealing o-ring between the FPR and
the fuel bowl body and the screen.
Here is the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve removed from
its containing port. There are only three parts to this
valve, the seat, spring and brass cap. Set all these
parts aside to be cleaned in the parts cleaner tray.
FPR and the fuel bowl. Notice the accumulation of
debris on the screen that almost occludes the flow of
fuel into the FPR. The screen is sitting on what
appears to be a white nylon part that functions as a
bleeder orifice for the FPR. There are two o-rings on
this white bleeder orifice.
Be very careful removing the bleeder orifice as there
is a check ball sitting in the recess below it. This
check ball has a lot of bounce and will be difficult to
locate if it falls out and decides to leave. In this photo
you can see the check ball, bleeder orifice with the
two o-rings, the sealing o-ring between the FPR and
the fuel bowl body and the screen.
Here is the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve removed from
its containing port. There are only three parts to this
valve, the seat, spring and brass cap. Set all these
parts aside to be cleaned in the parts cleaner tray.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 5 of 10
Page 5 of 10
The 1994-1995 models have a screen filter
canister that is attached to the FPR. It simply
unscrews from the FPR. The screen element
slips over the tube that is cast into the FPR
and the spring that sits in the bottom of the
canister holds it in place. You will want to use
a soft bristle brush to thoroughly clean the
filter and blow dry with compressed air.
(96-97 Only) When removing the c-clip and
plate from the regulator assembly, the filter
is exposed. This filter can be removed and
washed in solvent until the fluid runs clean.
Take all your loose parts, springs, plugs and main bowl to the parts wash tub and
thoroughly clean with a stiff bristle parts cleaning brush. Rinse all parts with fresh
solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Lay out your cleaned parts on the
workbench, grouped by general placement.
canister that is attached to the FPR. It simply
unscrews from the FPR. The screen element
slips over the tube that is cast into the FPR
and the spring that sits in the bottom of the
canister holds it in place. You will want to use
a soft bristle brush to thoroughly clean the
filter and blow dry with compressed air.
(96-97 Only) When removing the c-clip and
plate from the regulator assembly, the filter
is exposed. This filter can be removed and
washed in solvent until the fluid runs clean.
Take all your loose parts, springs, plugs and main bowl to the parts wash tub and
thoroughly clean with a stiff bristle parts cleaning brush. Rinse all parts with fresh
solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Lay out your cleaned parts on the
workbench, grouped by general placement.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 6 of 10
Page 6 of 10
REASSEMBLY:
To disassemble the drain valve, remove the two
main o-rings and turn the stem 180 degrees from
the normal drain position so you can see the flat
side of the upper ball through the main o-ring
opening. In this position you can lift the stem out of
the valve body. If you use a #6-32 machine screw,
slightly threaded into the white “cone” that is
inserted into the top of the stem. You can use the
screw to assist in removal of the stem. Once the
stem has been removed, pull the cone from the
stem using the #6-32 machine screw but be careful
not to loose the small check ball that sits under the
cone (
main o-rings and turn the stem 180 degrees from
the normal drain position so you can see the flat
side of the upper ball through the main o-ring
opening. In this position you can lift the stem out of
the valve body. If you use a #6-32 machine screw,
slightly threaded into the white “cone” that is
inserted into the top of the stem. You can use the
screw to assist in removal of the stem. Once the
stem has been removed, pull the cone from the
stem using the #6-32 machine screw but be careful
not to loose the small check ball that sits under the
cone (
many of the 94 and 95 models do not
have this ball). Remove the old o-ring from the
stem and clean all parts including inside the valve
body with special attention to the bottom.
Lube the top stem o-ring with diesel fuel and “roll” it
on to the stem (O-ring #2 in the Size Comparison
Chart included in the o-ring kit). Insert the stem into
the valve until the stem o-ring touches the valve
body. Turn the valve upside down so the top of the
valve is on the workbench and the bottom of the
valve is pointing upwards. Using the palm of your
hand, push on the bottom of the valve until you feel
the stem o-ring pop into place in the body. Turn the
stem 180* to the normal drain position. You should
be able to see a hole in each of the two stem valve
“*****” through the main o-ring openings when it is
in the correct position. Insert the two main o-rings
(Size Comparison Chart O-rings #1) and seat
them by pushing them in with your thumb. ( for 94-
95 models: Put the small cup and check ball back
in the upper bowl drain hole and secure the valve
back on the fuel bowl with the two Phillips headed
machine screws).
have this ball). Remove the old o-ring from the
stem and clean all parts including inside the valve
body with special attention to the bottom.
Lube the top stem o-ring with diesel fuel and “roll” it
on to the stem (O-ring #2 in the Size Comparison
Chart included in the o-ring kit). Insert the stem into
the valve until the stem o-ring touches the valve
body. Turn the valve upside down so the top of the
valve is on the workbench and the bottom of the
valve is pointing upwards. Using the palm of your
hand, push on the bottom of the valve until you feel
the stem o-ring pop into place in the body. Turn the
stem 180* to the normal drain position. You should
be able to see a hole in each of the two stem valve
“*****” through the main o-ring openings when it is
in the correct position. Insert the two main o-rings
(Size Comparison Chart O-rings #1) and seat
them by pushing them in with your thumb. ( for 94-
95 models: Put the small cup and check ball back
in the upper bowl drain hole and secure the valve
back on the fuel bowl with the two Phillips headed
machine screws).
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 7 of 10
Page 7 of 10
FPR Reassembly
:
After cleaning the Heater electrical connector, use
the O-ring #4. Lube the o-ring area with some
light oil or motor oil and insert it back into the
heater port on the fuel bowl. Rotate the connector
so the tall tab interlocks under the tab cast in the
fuel bowl.
After cleaning the Water In Fuel Sensor, use
the O-ring #6. Lube the o-ring area with
some light oil or motor oil and screw it back
into the WIF port below the Heater connector.
The main FPR seat valve is straight forward -
seat, spring and cap in that order. Install the new
o-ring on the brass FPR cap (use the O-ring #8).
Lube the o-ring area with some light oil or motor
oil and screw it into the port making sure the
spring is center on the pointed spike on the brass
plug.
After cleaning the Heater electrical connector, use
the O-ring #4. Lube the o-ring area with some
light oil or motor oil and insert it back into the
heater port on the fuel bowl. Rotate the connector
so the tall tab interlocks under the tab cast in the
fuel bowl.
After cleaning the Water In Fuel Sensor, use
the O-ring #6. Lube the o-ring area with
some light oil or motor oil and screw it back
into the WIF port below the Heater connector.
The main FPR seat valve is straight forward -
seat, spring and cap in that order. Install the new
o-ring on the brass FPR cap (use the O-ring #8).
Lube the o-ring area with some light oil or motor
oil and screw it into the port making sure the
spring is center on the pointed spike on the brass
plug.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 8 of 10
Page 8 of 10
The FPR bleed port is the only direct physical
connection between the fuel bowl and the fuel
pressure relief valve. It is there to allow any
trapped air in the fuel bowl to escape back to the
tank. There are two o-rings on the white bleed port,
the smaller o-ring that goes into the FPR first is the
inboard o-ring (use the
connection between the fuel bowl and the fuel
pressure relief valve. It is there to allow any
trapped air in the fuel bowl to escape back to the
tank. There are two o-rings on the white bleed port,
the smaller o-ring that goes into the FPR first is the
inboard o-ring (use the
O-ring #7). The other
larger o-ring is the outboard o-ring (use the O-ring
#6) Lube the o-ring areas with some light oil or
motor oil as this part is tough to get seated back
into the FPR. Drop the ball in the FPR and push
the bleed valve in as far as you can set it for now.
The screen and o-ring will not be used until we get
ready to bolt the FPR to the bowl.
This is the Filter screen canister for the 94-95
models. The canister will use the O-ring #9.
larger o-ring is the outboard o-ring (use the O-ring
#6) Lube the o-ring areas with some light oil or
motor oil as this part is tough to get seated back
into the FPR. Drop the ball in the FPR and push
the bleed valve in as far as you can set it for now.
The screen and o-ring will not be used until we get
ready to bolt the FPR to the bowl.
This is the Filter screen canister for the 94-95
models. The canister will use the O-ring #9.
IMPORTANT STEP FOR 96-97 FPR:
To keep
from damaging the o-ring that seals the plate to
the FPR body, use a c-clamp to keep the plate
parallel to the body while you compress the o-ring
enough to re-install the c-clip. Keep in mind that
if the plate tips to one side, it will try to push
the o-ring into the area that seats the c-clip.
When the plate straightens out it will cut the oring,
damaging it where it will not seal
properly. Use O-ring #10.to seal the plate to the
FPR body and use O-ring #3 to seal the hard line
to the plate.
from damaging the o-ring that seals the plate to
the FPR body, use a c-clamp to keep the plate
parallel to the body while you compress the o-ring
enough to re-install the c-clip. Keep in mind that
if the plate tips to one side, it will try to push
the o-ring into the area that seats the c-clip.
When the plate straightens out it will cut the oring,
damaging it where it will not seal
properly. Use O-ring #10.to seal the plate to the
FPR body and use O-ring #3 to seal the hard line
to the plate.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 9 of 10
Page 9 of 10
Mount the FPR to the Fuel Bowl:
Place the cleaned screen filter into the port
opening on the fuel bowl and set the new
opening on the fuel bowl and set the new
O-ring #5
.into the recess.
Set the reassembled FPR over the port
making sure that the white bleed valve
stays in place in the FPR. Secure the FPR
to the Fuel Bowl using the two original
10mm bolts.
(96-97 models Only) Here is the O-ring #3
Set the reassembled FPR over the port
making sure that the white bleed valve
stays in place in the FPR. Secure the FPR
to the Fuel Bowl using the two original
10mm bolts.
(96-97 models Only) Here is the O-ring #3
inserted into the recess in the FPR base
plate that seals the hard line to the FPR.
plate that seals the hard line to the FPR.
Fuel Bowl Rebuild Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
© 2009-2011 DieselOrings.com
Page 10 of 10
Page 10 of 10
Fuel Heater Element:
Set the heater element sideways into the fuel bowl.
This will allow you to reach in and plug the element
into the electrical connector with your hand or by
using a pair of needle nose pliers.
Place the heater element on the stand pipe port
with the tab of the element plate
Set the heater element sideways into the fuel bowl.
This will allow you to reach in and plug the element
into the electrical connector with your hand or by
using a pair of needle nose pliers.
Place the heater element on the stand pipe port
with the tab of the element plate
to the left of the
aluminum tab cast into the fuel bowl. These tabs
keep the heater element from turning while
tightening the stand pipe and causing damage to
the electrical wire and connector.
You can now remount the fuel bowl in the engine bay and reconnect the wiring harness
and fuel hoses. It will be necessary to connect the hose attached to the bottom of the fuel
aluminum tab cast into the fuel bowl. These tabs
keep the heater element from turning while
tightening the stand pipe and causing damage to
the electrical wire and connector.
You can now remount the fuel bowl in the engine bay and reconnect the wiring harness
and fuel hoses. It will be necessary to connect the hose attached to the bottom of the fuel
bowl prior the bolting the bowl to the engine.
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