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How to remove the Tank Selector Switch?

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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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How to remove the Tank Selector Switch?

I'm at the troubleshooting step where I need to test the actual tank selector switch. I've removed just about every screw I can find but the bottom part of the dash just doesn't want to com out.

I also don't see a way to access the switch by pushing the control panel (heat/air/vent/selector switch) from the front to move it behind and under the dash.

If anyone has done this before or has ideas on how I can get it out, please share.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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I thought I pulled the HVAC control way out of the dash to get access. But it was a long time ago.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I thought I pulled the HVAC control way out of the dash to get access. But it was a long time ago.
That's what I was hoping would happen. However, the hole is just big enough to allow the face to show, not to pull the unit through.

So, I guess I have to figure out how to remove the 'bottom layer' of the dash...do I need to remove the instrument cluster before that 'bottom layer' will come off?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Is this on the '85 in your sig line?
Did you remove the trim panel first?
If not, there are 2 screws above the radio (and clock, if you have one), under the edge of the dash. CAREFULLY remove the trim panel by tilting outward. After it is out, you can access the screws that hold the climate control in, and it will slide out somewhat towards the seat, with some maneuvering.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by drumfield
Is this on the '85 in your sig line?
Did you remove the trim panel first? After it is out, you can access the screws that hold the climate control in, and it will slide out somewhat towards the seat, with some maneuvering.
Thanks Doug. Yes its the truck in my sig. trim panel and top dash tray thing has been removed. I already removed the screws that hold the climate control in but didn't see a way to get it to come out.

I'll give it another go and tinker around some more.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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Man...no dice on it coming out w/o removing that whole front panel. How does the part all the way on the right/left that goes to the doors come out? I don't see any more screws to take out and I've already removed the glove compartment completely.

They sure don't make this stuff easy to get to do they...?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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You don't have to remove the dash.

First remove the **** on the fuel tank selector switch. There is a little spring metal tab sticking out at the back of the ****, you just push this in toward yourself (facing the HVAC control unit head-on) and pull it off. Removing all the ***** might give you that extra little bit of clearance when you're working on getting the HVAC unit out of the dash.

Now, push the left side of the unit further into the dash and turn it (gently) toward the driver side of the truck, until you can disconnect the connector for the fuel tank selector switch. It can be a pain since it's been connected 26+ years and it has two big plastic clips holding it on, but it'll come off with some persuasion.

If you can get the unit turned around like this enough to get the switch out, then this is all you have to do. I had mine out recently but I can't remember how the switch is held in.

If you can't get it out at this point, start working on getting the right side (the side with the tank selector switch) out of the HVAC unit's opening in the dash. You have to sort of press down on the dash plastic (basically bending it carefully) to widen the opening enough to fit one side of the unit through. Once you get one side out, you can then use the same method to get the rest of the unit out. It won't come out far though, unless you can get the vacuum connector loose from the back of the unit. I'd avoid disconnecting this unless absolutely necessary.

ALTERATIVELY....I think you can remove your radio, reach into the opening and remove the switch that way. You can look down the radio opening and clearly see the HVAC control unit. You'll be working in braille most of the time if you use this method though...lol
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:21 PM
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Hi Kirbyman...I tried to do that but there is metal along the bottom so it doesn't flex much. Did yours have the white things behind the holes? It's those little evil things that are causing me the headache.



I wound up working to get the dash off some more last night. Ran into several issues. I'll see about getting some more pics up to show ya'll what I mean.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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ok heres the secret.... since it appears you have the A/C control panel loose already you now need to remove the ash tray and the ash tray bracket, also take off the lower heater register (floor vent in center of dash) every thing has to go down the bottom of the dash. once those are removed you can slightly turn the panel sideways and get to the connectors to unplug them (it will cost you blood money as you have to contortion your hand and arm either up from bottom of thru the small opening where control was) then drop the whole unit or if you can just the switch down the bottom.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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I only know how to do it using what Kirby described.

Using that method, I was able to get it out EASILY but JUST ONCE, and that was in a junk yard, I've never been able to replicate it again.

Once you find the magic positions it comes out pretty easily, though.

The bottom won't bend but the top will.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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After the retaining screws are removed from the front, the ashtray and bracket are removed , and the control ***** are taken off, push the back of the heater control unit up and into the dash so you can angle the front straight down towards the floor. Then turn the unit slightly to the right and slide it out the bottom of the dash. Then you can gain enough space to remove all the connectors on the back of the control unit.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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Isn't the floor heater duct in the way though?

Ecfool, good call on the ashtray removal. I totally forgot about that step. lol

It -will- come straight out if you can widen the opening just enough to slide it out. You do have to play with it some.

Just be aware that if you pull the dash out, it could be a headache to get back on....you've got AC ducts, wiring, and other stuff to deal with. I suppose if you just pull it out enough to get the HVAC controls out you'll be okay, but I can tell you it wasn't exactly a joy swapping out my tan dash for a black one at like 1am....

Aww who am I kiddin, I enjoyed every minute of it LOL
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:56 PM
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the floor heater duct is what I call a register it has to come out then actuay kinda easy. got a question as I am fairly new to site. Do you guys mind pictures of various jobs? such as this since I need to remove mine anyway this weekend and I know from past experiance it shouldnt take over about 15 minutes to remove the whole HVAC control panel. I mean heck flat rate for R&R is only .9 and warrenty time only gives you .4
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
Isn't the floor heater duct in the way though?
I'll take a look at it this morning, but I have no recollection at all of having to pull the heater duct...I remember the back of the control box sliding up in front of the duct. The ***** do have to off though in order to have enough space to slide the unit out from the front.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ri_truck_guy
After the retaining screws are removed....Then you can gain enough space to remove all the connectors on the back of the control unit.
Thanks Bill, I tried your idea and with some cursing was able to get it out...thanks!



Then was able to get the actual switch removed...



Tested...



Result? The switch is working properly! Damn...I mean isn't that awesome!

Next step, check continuity between the orange and brown/white wire from the connector down to the fuel selector valve connector. I found this...



Yep, bad picture but its a hole that is in the orange wire that has severed almost all of the wire in there. It still passes the continuity test but obviously needs to be repaired.

I do sorta wish I had known about this before I did this...











However, I did learn some tips that a fellow newbie mechanic would like to know. For example, you know those 'Quick Disconnect' connectors that are supposed to be easy to take off the speedometer behind the instrument panel? Well, its only easy and quick if you know how the heck to use it.



That is the connector...you push on the one side which releases the latch.



Of course...to actually access that connector, you'll probably need to disconnect the main connector by pushing in on both sides of this...



Then the dash behind the instrument panel looks like this:

 
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