When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys, I recently pulled my stock rear suspention off and started on my 4 link from NO LIMIT. I was wondering if anyone had a problem with the directions that come with the kit. Its all hand drawn half fast and the measurements seem to be a little off. I know all trucks are a little different but in the instructions it tells you to find your axle center line and measure 36" forward for the chassie bracket location. well 36" forward is the chassie brackets for the bed of the truck. so i cant get exactly 36" maybe a 1/8" off if its butted up to the other bracket. then with the bars adjusted to 30 1/4 my axle centerline is off by maybe a half inch. Should i just say hell with there measurments and adjust accordingly? this is my first four link ive attempted i wanna make sure its right the first time so all advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also if anyone is looking for some stock suspention brackets, springs, the stock dana 44 let me know.
hmmm I dont think ill have to trim that much off my bracket. Maybe he adjusted his axle center line. I guess i will have to re assemble my bed to make sure the tire looks centered in the fenderwell.
What makes you feel confident in your build is the right thing.
I have the same No Limit 4 link sitting at home. I did adjust for the centered wheel well in the front for the IFS but was not planning on doing it to the back.
I am going to stick with the stock center line and then add the 36" for the brackets. I am measuring my centerline off of the specs from the back of the No Limit catalog. In the back of the catalog there is quick tips and in those tips is the exact measurement for the rear (CI). So that number for my (CI) and then 36" to that. If I have to cut any I will cut the bracket.
I don't remember having that much trouble with my CPP 4 link. But it's been a long time since I put it in. So I can't remember for 100%. But I don't think I did.
Im starting to work on mine and got ahead of myself by removing every thing before i measured my centerline. I havent purchased my 4 link yet. Could someone tell me the stock axle centerline measurement. Im thinking 36" from end of top frame rail but would like an exact measurement. I could put it all back together i guess.
I just reviewed my catalog from No Limit, it states that the centerline is 37.5" (I believe that this is adjusted to center the wheel well) from the rear frame end. If you add 36" for the 4 link bracket then you will need to cut off 1" from the bracket. That is A LOT...
I think that the centerline is actually 36" from the rear and that you can add 36" more for the brackets and be safe with maybe .5" cushion. I am calling this weekend to validate. If I am correct then I will just go with about a 36.5" Centeline and then adjust accordingly.
This is Snook's pix, I think this is how it may end up, butted against the bracket
i would be careful welding the brackets onto the rear end.if you weld it solid ,it can warp the crap out of the rear housing.ask me how i know... i now have a new currier housing and a heavy boat anchor... that is what happened on my tci 4 link install. that took most of the fun out of it
i would be careful welding the brackets onto the rear end.if you weld it solid ,it can warp the crap out of the rear housing.ask me how i know... i now have a new currier housing and a heavy boat anchor... that is what happened on my tci 4 link install. that took most of the fun out of it
Good looking out, I will definitely keep that in mind. I have a 220 Hobart and will make sure I keep plenty of movement going on and take my time to prevent any warping. Someone also told me that the tubing is real thick and is good to heat up with a torch before welding. I will need to google some of that theory. I would think that extra heat would cause for more chances to warp. Unless it is a lot of barely warm up and tack and move to another area.
Originally Posted by bighalt56
I bet it did im gonna get a everyday welder to do mine. Just today i welded my box plates in to c notch my frame and realized my weldin skills suck
I was thinking almost the same way but after a lot of practice and A LOT of grinding and redoing, I have a decent hang of it. You can check out my work on the front, welds are not the prettiest but I over killed it and grinding to beautiful finish. No Limit IFS Install pictures by svtxcno - Photobucket
I just reviewed my catalog from No Limit, it states that the centerline is 37.5" (I believe that this is adjusted to center the wheel well) from the rear frame end. If you add 36" for the 4 link bracket then you will need to cut off 1" from the bracket. That is A LOT...
I think that the centerline is actually 36" from the rear and that you can add 36" more for the brackets and be safe with maybe .5" cushion. I am calling this weekend to validate. If I am correct then I will just go with about a 36.5" Centeline and then adjust accordingly.
This is Snook's pix, I think this is how it may end up, butted against the bracket
Thats exactly how i did mine and so far so good. With the bars originally set at 30 1/4" I was able to adjust the bars in 6 full turns top and bottom both sides and my centerline was dead on. I used the center of the original bump stop for my center line point didnt see anything about measuring 37" to find it but i put one bed side on and a fender and it looks good and centered. I also tacked the axle brackets in a 2 deg down with the frame level.
Its kinda hard to figure out your ride hight when your doing air bags because those degrees will change when the frames no longer level. I guess ill figure that out later down the road when i tack those brackets up and get my bags in. Thanks for all the support guys this forum truly makes the impossible, possible.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.