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sticky lifters?

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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 12:49 AM
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From: ak
sticky lifters?

hey guys, i was out working on my boat (95 351 ho) trying to get ready for summer. Im doing a handfull of exhaust work so i thought i would run a compression test while the manifolds were off, everything looked good 135-150# except for #4 which was arround 30. I checked the exhaut valve and it wasnt closing all the way so i loosend the rocker towers and it seems that the springs are compressing and not the lifter. then i loosend the springs on a cylinder that tested good before and the lifters wouldnt compress anymore and had no pressure on compression stroke either. should i wait to try and fire this thing up to see if they will loosen up or put in all new roller lifters? I went and dug out an old pushrod from a tore down engine and tried hammering the lifter a bit but it didnt seem to want to compress. I am also running rotella 15-40 i dont know if that would have any effect on the lifters.
thanks for any ideas
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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rotella is great oil so no worries there. since you have the motor that torn down why not replace the lifters then. better to do it now then later or run the risk of bending a pushrod.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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From: ak
can the lifters come out on the roller motor with just the intake off, or do i have to pull the heads?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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heads can stay. be sure to place the same pushrods back in order also.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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cool, after reading a few other threads im not sure on the lifters though. I was assuming that they were roller lifters, but looking down the pusrod holes last night i didnt see any special hardware down there. It jut looked like lifters sitting in the hole flush with the block. I wonder if the didnt use roller lifters in the marine/industrial aplication because of the mild cam. Its a 95 ho marine motor.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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My family has stored cars for both short and long term duration....I can definitely relate to dealing with sticky lifters! I agree, to start the engine would be a little risky. What I have found that worked for me, is to spray a decarbonizer (PB blaster, etc) on the stem, then take a flat punch & with a good size hammer, tap the valve (with only moderate force) to get it to move...it takes a little bit of patient but it will work the carbon out. I rememeber one engine that I had sitting in a vehicle for 5 years....had multiple valves sticking...everybody was shocked and thought i was crazy but I poured kerosene over the valves, let it sit for about 1 hour, checked each one with the hammer, punch and low and behold all were free. I then poured oil (a couple of qts) over the valves and drained the oil. Fired right up and no problems.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 68highboy
cool, after reading a few other threads im not sure on the lifters though. I was assuming that they were roller lifters, but looking down the pusrod holes last night i didnt see any special hardware down there. It jut looked like lifters sitting in the hole flush with the block. I wonder if the didnt use roller lifters in the marine/industrial aplication because of the mild cam. Its a 95 ho marine motor.
If the lifters have no "dogbone" and are round then you have flat lifters. The stock roller lifters have a "flat" on the sides for the "dogbone" to register on.
See link for pic.
http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...rd-racing.html
 
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