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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Amsoil oil and other fluids?

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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 10:15 PM
  #31  
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After being taught a lesson by a friend, I have changed my mind. I hope I'm allowed to do that. Change the oil after 5 to 7.5k. Extended drain intervals do not work.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 05:55 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Striderwv
After being taught a lesson by a friend, I have changed my mind. I hope I'm allowed to do that. Change the oil after 5 to 7.5k. Extended drain intervals do not work.
I hope it wasn't an expensive lesson.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Troy Buenger
Golden Advice Beachbumcook.... However I'm not so sure that running a 10W 30 oil is really bad for the 6.0. Alot of people have been using it with great oil analysis to back it up.

BTW.... I'm running 15W 40 and I'm at 150k miles with all original injectors.
If memory serves me correctly, Ford states that 10W-30 is allowed to be used.... but not for towing and not when ambient temps are above a certain temperature (basically it is to be used for extremly cold ambient temps... but not for towing due to the lower viscosity protection versus that of a 15W-40 or 5W-40 weight oil)!!!!

This is why many of us who use 15W-40 or 5W-40... our oil analysis shows that due to shearing it ebds up as a 30 weight oil... but if you change your oil every 5,000 miles, you will be fine... this is why extended oil drains is NOT advisable..... sheared oil is sheared oil.... if one starts with a 30 weight oil and tows or drives hard... then you are "flirting with trouble".

If someone needs cold weather protection... then use 5W-40 synthetic and get the best of both worlds and never worry about it!!!!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:23 AM
  #34  
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I put the Amsoil bypass kit on my truck hoping to get extended drain intervals but have decided against it due to the info I've found on this board. I did get a Blackstone oil analysis at 5k miles on my last oil and they said everything looked good and that I should be able to easily get another 2k out of the oil. I changed it at 5500 miles anyway because it had been a full year and I wanted to get it done before the summer started and I really started putting the truck to work pulling my travel trailer.

FYI, I got 17qts of Amsoil for $115, which is only a few bucks more than the some of the other synthetics that are sold at WalMart. I may switch to a different brand next time though in order to save some money, but will keep the bypass system operating just for piece of mind.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Striderwv
After being taught a lesson by a friend, I have changed my mind. I hope I'm allowed to do that. Change the oil after 5 to 7.5k. Extended drain intervals do not work.
Oh, they work... if you're the one selling high priced oil and filters and not having to pay for the repair of your truck and motor.

Oh... you mean they do not work for you (and me)... you are 100% correct!!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #36  
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Oil is cheap compared to the damage you could accumulate, the 6.0L enjoys fresh oil. Mr. Cook has great advice and has a good track record here on FTE with results. Some of you newcomers may not know him but I can assure you he shoots straight.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 02:28 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Beachbumcook
If memory serves me correctly, Ford states that 10W-30 is allowed to be used.... but not for towing and not when ambient temps are above a certain temperature (basically it is to be used for extremly cold ambient temps... but not for towing due to the lower viscosity protection versus that of a 15W-40 or 5W-40 weight oil)!!!!

This is why many of us who use 15W-40 or 5W-40... our oil analysis shows that due to shearing it ebds up as a 30 weight oil... but if you change your oil every 5,000 miles, you will be fine... this is why extended oil drains is NOT advisable..... sheared oil is sheared oil.... if one starts with a 30 weight oil and tows or drives hard... then you are "flirting with trouble".

If someone needs cold weather protection... then use 5W-40 synthetic and get the best of both worlds and never worry about it!!!!
The manual states below 50f suitable for 10w-30, and you are correct with the towing recommendation of 40wt.

Many of us, including me, have switched to 10w-30 year around with excellent UOA results. I don't tow heavy, but I do tow, and haul up to and including 4000# in the bed during 90f+ summer heat. It seems to work for me with my driving habits. Somewhere here there are some of my UOA's posted if anyone cares to look them up to compare.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Roasted7
Spend the money on 5000 mile oil changes. It's like buying insurance. If you can't afford that then maybe you should consider a Honda.
Actually, if anyone near upstate SC is selling a little beater POS 5-speed Honda Civic for around $2,000 I'll take it! 14 MPG at about $4.00/gal and driving to school and back, 20 miles one way, and doing that at least once, if not twice a day is getting EXPENSIVE!!! Plus if I can get me a little beater to take out most of my mileage then I won't have to worry about extended drain intervals anymore

And on that note (I realize this is off topic but it's my topic, so I'll get over it), FICM tune helping with fuel mileage is HORSE *****. I'm actually pretty sure mine went down. I've talked to the guy about it and he seems to think it's my PCM strategy and thinks I should have it rolled back to the older/original strategy. I'm just afraid to sink another $150 into a lost cause.

But anyways...thanks for all the info guys. I think I'm pretty much talked out of it. But is Rotella 5w40 synthetic any better for the truck than just standard Rotella 15w40? If not then I don't find it to be worth it to go from $12/gal to $20/gal.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I hope it wasn't an expensive lesson.
Been ok so far for 8k, but only time will tell. Thanks for the good thought.

I'm assuming shear is a mechanical breakdown of the oil. If so, fuel dilution is another thing that gets you when you go extended drain intervals, or at least it did me.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #40  
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I just bought Synthetic Rotella 5w-40 and a Motorcraft filter. Usually I have the dealer service my truck but I think it is time I start taking over the duties. Now, to find a 36mm socket.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Excurvelle
I just bought Synthetic Rotella 5w-40 and a Motorcraft filter. Usually I have the dealer service my truck but I think it is time I start taking over the duties. Now, to find a 36mm socket.
Sears is where I got mine.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:41 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Excurvelle
I just bought Synthetic Rotella 5w-40 and a Motorcraft filter. Usually I have the dealer service my truck but I think it is time I start taking over the duties. Now, to find a 36mm socket.

If you already have a 1 7/16 socket, they work also.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #43  
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How does amsoil tranny fluid work in these trucks? Safe?
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 08:17 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Roasted7
How does amsoil tranny fluid work in these trucks? Safe?
Ford specifies that you use either Mercon SP or Mercon LV and using will work transmission fluids is at the users risk. Ford engineered this transmission to use a certain type of oil which is relatively inexpensive compared to other claimed will work transmission oils.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TexasA&M
I put the Amsoil bypass kit on my truck hoping to get extended drain intervals but have decided against it due to the info I've found on this board. I did get a Blackstone oil analysis at 5k miles on my last oil and they said everything looked good and that I should be able to easily get another 2k out of the oil. I changed it at 5500 miles anyway because it had been a full year and I wanted to get it done before the summer started and I really started putting the truck to work pulling my travel trailer.

FYI, I got 17qts of Amsoil for $115, which is only a few bucks more than the some of the other synthetics that are sold at WalMart. I may switch to a different brand next time though in order to save some money, but will keep the bypass system operating just for piece of mind.
There is no problem running a "by-pass oil filter"... the problem is people trying to run their oil well past the engineered and protection levels of their oil, filter and the motor itself.

The only way Amsoil and some other oil brands can justify their high prices is to market/sell users on the idea of longer service intervals in order to bring the "per oil drain" costs down.

What everyone has found since the 6.0L motor was built is that OEM filters from Walmart at $19.00/ea is as good as it gets.... and brand name quality API certified oil changed out every 5,000 miles is cheap maintenance (and fun to perform on one's own truck).

Many choose to run synthetic 5W-40 motor oils due to cold weather starting or better "high heat protection"... but many have done quite well with dino 15W-40.... if they change their oil and filter on time and with OEM filters!!! If running a 15W-40 motor, then one needs to let their oil warm up in the winter before driving off versus the thinner viscosity of a 5W-40 motor oil... and the time it takes to circulate and protect your turbo bearings as well.

I too run a by-pass oil filter and the most I have ever gone between oil changes was 6,000 or so miles (due to being on vacation to the West coast)... bust since I change my oil and full-flow filter every 5,000 miles... I was not worried.

By the way, for cost reasons, I only change the by-pass filter every second oil change just to save the money and time in buying these more expensive filters.

Good luck,
 
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