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Yep 15s sound good but they take up lots of space. My single 10 box is 15x15x27. Many subs are made for porting & work better in a ported box. You might need a sub sonic filter to control the sub below the port hz. My amp has one built in. I am breaking in a new sub. I can't be slamming it for a few days. I set the gain last night. Its one loud sub. It moves 25 mm one way. I blow away the kids here with my 10. They buy the Walmart subs & pawnshop crap. Plus they don't know how to set them up. I was drowning out a pair of 10s with my system just the other day. He had his as loud as it would go & he could hear mine in his car with me 10 feet away. He wants me to build a box for him now. My truck gets me most of my installs. Its my slamming billboard. Once I sell my Tn house I'll build a shop. I'll build custom boxes for online sales then. Its my hobby but it can make some cash too.
I sure would like to know how to freshen up my 302, cam, intake, carb, etc, no headers, power gain is minimal unless you're revving the **** out of it, whatever I do it must look stock.
The seat is still coming along, no new video's of it tho.
If you change cams build around it. Get the spring kit & use the carb & intake that matches your setup. A Comp cam Magnum 270 cam kit with decent heads will boost your power.
My friend with the van has had serious health issues, one bad turn after another, I need to get out there and get it, have to figure out how I can get the lift slid to the rear, not sure who I can get to help me now that I've moved. I hate that all of this has happened to him, I fear he won't be able to be as active as he once was before, which is gonna be rough on him, he loved to tinker on stuff.
I had hoped to have that van ready to drive by next year, now when I get there, I have to remount the seat, and get back to getting in it the hard way, which will eventually result in a broken bone. Not to mention the lift at the slider, causing no passenger seat and tons of door closing issues, the reason I need it in the rear of the van. He got those stupid windows removed and holes filled in, pretty great to now have a panel van, ready for insulation to keep the heat in.
I have an HEI distributor, wires and plugs for it, not sure if I'll install them when I go pick it up, or wait till I drive it home, I want it in now tho, can't wait to test it out, see the difference from the old factory points, get to widen the spark gap.
I found a great old school amp for my Ranger. Its a Phoenix Gold MS 275. Super clean & strong. The whole board is 24 carat gold plated.It runs my 6.5 mids in the doors. You would like my system. I have 1 ten inch sub. I hot 138 db with just it.
I have to use what I have, not sure If I'll relocate the 15 or 12's into the 73 Econoline, no money for buying subs or I'd do 4 10's, 2 on each side SVC on either my 800x2 or 500x2 as they require 2 channel at 2ohm or 1 at 4 ohm. I badly need speakers, I picked up Pioneer components a few years ago, still in the box, unopened, need some for the middle of the van, not sure on size, makes no difference, it has one in the dash that's going bye bye. I'll be needing some speaker boxes built if I can't get the ones I have to fit, need them to sit off to the side where I can roll around them, since I'm entering the rear.
I've still not answered the power situation, can, heads, and intake for the 302, I want low RPM power, torque, tire roasting ability would be nice. No competition for my 5.4 in the 99, no matter how you look at it, yet it weighs 8000 lbs, hope to keep the 73 lighter.
It's still getting work, slowly but surely, the guy drug out some swaybars he had in his shed to test fit, gotta get some hardware to mount them. I'm back on the lift idea, if he can come up with the hinges, gonna gull the slider and slide the lift 6" to allow for a passenger seat. I need to get out to his house to see if I can help him work on it, not sure how I can hang out near him, wish I had an enclosed trailer to setup a make shift sleeper/camper.
Today's subs are much better than the older ones. Many are designed to be in ported boxes. You gain 3 db by just using a ported box.As long as you tune the port right you don't loose your lows. My 10 inch box in the Ranger is tuned to 30 hz. It gets low. I am building one for the F250.It will hold 2/10s. It will replace the center console. The subs will fire down. It looks like the box may run from the dash to the rear seat to clear the armrest.. I don't care. I have a box between the seats now with 1/10 in it.
I've not been on here in a while, I got her home last month, been driving it since, at the moment, as a daily driver, the white one went to the transmission shop.
I need to move the lift to the rear, requiring me to drop the tank to bolt it down, clean out the tank and replace the hose on it at the time. The slider has been a major issue, jumping track, until in frustration, I removed the urethane and modified it with a bolt, other than being severely worn, it's worked great since. I need to get the swivel base on my seat cut down maybe 2 inches, I sit too high, wish I could weld, the track base he mounted it to is amazing.
So, I one hand a 40 year old van with manual steering and manual drum brakes, I need a booster, or rebuild the one I picked up, and get a master cylinder, so I can install the bracket assembly for power, then I'm updating to front disc. I drive all over Murvul with it, no passenger seat yet, I need some buckets with armrests and a base.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.