I bought one of the "Diesel Compression Kits" from HF... I have not used it yet, (as I have not pulled my engine yet) but it SAYS it has the right size in it. (10MMX1MM)

Do I still need a whip to use it?

 

The problem with the included adapter is that it will contact the rockers, the fitting is shorter and the use of the whip allows that slight flexibility to not have to remove a thing.

 

Yes it will thread right into the fitting 1/8" grease whip is 1/8"NPT male fittings the reason for the flexible whip versus pipe is to not contact the rockers, it allows that flexibility to work around it and not remove anything.

 

Gotcha. I just want to make sure I have everything when I pull it so I'm not chasing my tail. I want to check compression when I pull it because if it has any bad holes I want to fix it once, if you know what I mean. Still debating whether do do new rings or not.... she only has 105k on it.... healthy AFAIK

Edit... I'd rep ya but it says NO! lol!

 

Hey all,

Does anyone think that having my block heater plugged in all night would be enough of a "warm up" for a compression test?

I have had my glow plugs and valve covers of a bunch!

Going to get a flex hose tomorrow and try again!

 

It will get it pretty close...Are you looking for a possible issue or just a general health check? If you are just checking for a dead hole, it will be pretty obvious. If you just want to get the general health assessment get it warmed. You can start it with the VC's off. Need GP's in though.

 

Not sure. If your in no hurry, do the test cold and log your results. If the results seem off, put the gp's in and the big harness up and fire it up with it plugged in. It should not take a whole lot to get it warm. I think with a good engine you'll probly get good readings. Last time I checked one on a stand I got 375 on all 8. On my engine the test results were horrible. 290 was my lowest and my highest may of been 360 but the numbers were all over the board. Thats the engine I'm still running and had Jody live tune at rre. Still kicking but I can't help but wonder what I'm missing! Soon enough

 

Compression results are in.

Finally got the hose whip. I plugged in my truck over night and the temps here in Mass have been warm. The truck was warm to touch but not "warmed up". Here are teh results.

1 - 380
2 - 320
3 - 380
4 - 365
5 - 360
6 - N/a
7 - 325
8 - 320

cylinders 5 and 8 were throwing the "contribution failure" code for the past three years. Performance has been declining since. I am happy to see the compression is not so bad in these cylinders. This leads me to believe that it was an injector or two that was the issue all along.

I couldn't get the tester in #6 cause the injector was cocked just a touch. Pretty embarresed that I couldn't get it and welcome scrutiny! I'm pretty confident that It was an injector issue that was making my truck run like crap. I am happy with these results for having 278,000 miles and 110,000 on waste veg oil. Thanks for all the guidence! I am grateful to all those who have the knowledge and are willing to help!!!

But now my truck is throwing a code. This is new. It wasn't throwing a check engine light before. If I reset my trucks computer by taking the battery terminals off, it runs like new for a second, then the check engine light comes on and it runs like crap. Any ideas on this? My buddy with the Snap-on scanner can't make it over till tomorrow, and its hard to find someone locally (which is amazing to me; seeing that Worcester Ma used to be one of the industrial capitals of the country!).

So close!!

 

Make sure you didn't knock off the plugs to the injectors, the passenger's side is pretty easy to knock them off if you aren't careful.

The injector was cocked so bad that you couldn't get #6. Not sure how you can **** it very far? There are 2 bolts that hold it in? I would investigate that one further, and try to get #'s FWIW I had 7 good and 1 bad hole on my previous motor.

 

# 6 was either just a smidgen cocked, just the smallest bit, or it was the rocker arm that was in the way.

The truck runs mint until the check engine light comes on. It comes on quickly, and then runs rough.

Looks like my buddy will bring the snap-on computer over in the morning.

Thanks for the ideas!!

 

Snap on comp results...

IDM code 1316 ... The injection computer is not communicating with the injectors. Cylinder 8 keeps coming up. I have 7 AD injectors and 1 AE in the number 8 slot. Maybe the reman is bad? Not sure what is going on...

I checked out the valve cover harness.. seemed to be ok. There was a loose ground that I soldered and seemed to fix it... but showing contribution failure on cylinders 2,4, and 8.. not 6. Hmm. I am getting another valve cover gasket, but don't think that it will solve the IDM code for number8..

Anyone know about buzz tests? They all sound the same except number 8... It buzzed with half the sound. I know that this injector is turned down for noise reduction, but it should buzz the same.. right? I can't figure out why # 8 is buzzing low and shutting down the injector module computre. I replaced the computer 3 years ago. $1000!!

Damn!!!!

 

Ok, first, sounds like the drivers side (2,4,6,8) UVCH is bad, or was getting a bad connection.

Second, AE is the #8 injector because it is put there to reduce cackle, it is most likely NOT a reman.

Lastly, the CPS can cause #3 and #8 to read bad on a CCT, so don't automatically assume it's bad.

P1316 could be an IDM issue... most likely it's due to the bad connection at the UVCH. And yes, they should all sound about even on a buzz test.

 

Sorry for my ignorance...

But what does CPS and CCT stand for?

Injector #8 had low voltage.. for clarity. I believe if I remember correctly that this was throwing the IDM code 1316.

Ya I am going to try a new valve cover gasket for sure.. Do you think this will help the voltage to #8? I tested the VC gasket with an ohm meter and it seemed to check out.

You are totally right. Gotta replace VC gasket and go from there. I just hate throwing parts at it hoping for a cure...

Thanks for the insight!

 

CPS: Welcome to guzzle's CPS R&R Web Page<

CCT: Cylinder Contribution Test.

P1316 (Injector Circuit/IDM Codes Detected) Doesn't mean one or the other cylinder, just that there is codes present. Again, frequently from a bad UVCH connection.

 

As stated the 1316 means that the IDM has stored codes, in order to pull those codes you would need to do a KOEO(Key On Engine Off) or BUZZ test. The other code you were getting for #8 is why you had the P1316, that code would be the important one not the P1316, it was probably a P1268 or P1278 High to low open or High to low short. It could be in the wiring or it could be the injector itself.