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Speed Density ?

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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #16  
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No.. mustang shorties don't fit at all, get some truck shorties instead.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #17  
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ok I found them ford racing part number M-9430-T50. Says they will clear the gt40p heads. Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:42 AM
  #18  
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DO i need new lifters with this cam and will I need to replace valve springs
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #19  
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The springs that come on the GT40 heads are sufficient for this cam so you don't absolutely "need" new ones but if you have to buy springs for those heads then get those recommended by Comp Cams. And there is no need to replace the lifters when swapping roller cams, if your motor has excessive miles on it(200k) then it's not a bad idea but that is your call.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #20  
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the motor has 170,000 comp sells a hit with lifters cam and timing set for 499.00 so i think i am going to buy the whole set from them peace of mind plus ive been real hard on the truck too.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #21  
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kit* sorry and is there anything i need to block off on the gt40p heads and how hard is it to delete the smog system? And can I block off the egr without meesin something up
sorry for all the questions just never dealt with speed density.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #22  
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you should consider a complete rebuild that new top end will hammer the bottom end. jmo
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #23  
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im going to do a complete rebuild i know whats going in the bottom end just dont know nothin bout these heads and extra holes or whatever that is associated with later model vehicles. I know every year it seems like the epa gets stricter and stricter and i got a set of 98 heads going on a 92 truck just wondering if all my sensors and crossover tube and all that will bolt straight up. definetly going to build the whole thing though. Crank grind if needed new pistons cause im sure it will need boring with that many miles on it. bearings and im putting new oil pump timing set water pump thermostat oil sending
unit(s) everything. I have built a 302 but never did a build like this on speed density. I am in Kuwait right now and when I get home I am going to start on this jewel. The down time while everything is at the machine shoop will be painful i have spent enough time away from the truck already and the parts waiting to be installed pile at home keeps gettin bigger and bigger. I guess with the down time I can paint my oil pan and valve covers and put the new fuel fiter on it.O forgot about the 4 inch lift i can do that. I guess i got plenty of stuff to do while it is at the machine shop. It is getting the 4.88s installed right now. It should be a beast when I get done with it. 302 gt40p heads, headers, comp cam 35-312-8, 4.88 gears, front dana trac lok rear ford limited slip, Brand new 35/12.50 buckshots and am swapping the two flowmasters for a dual in dual out with Xpipe magnaflow dumped after rear axle. I like that magnaflow with the x pipe in it two birds with one stone.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #24  
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The whole thermactor smog system can be deleted without affecting the computer you just have to keep the TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected. GT40p heads do not have ports for the air tube at the back of the motor so you may as well remove it all. The EGR system cannot be deleted without setting a code however so I suggest retaining it, you can put a blockoff plate between the valve and intake to prevent all that carbon buildup inside the intake manifold though.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #25  
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where and the tab and tad solenoids located
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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Right next to the coil..

 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #27  
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So leave the wires hooked up to those two sensor but undo everything else from the smog system and put a block off plate between the egr valve and tha intake manifold correct?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #28  
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The complete EGR system has to stay intact including the EVR solenoid in that pic and the vacuum line to it and from it to the EGR valve. The vacuum lines attached to the TAB and TAD solenoids can be removed however but the vacuum supply lines for those devices have to be capped or completely removed from the vacuum harness. The complete vacuum harness that runs around the back of the motor can be lifted right off the engine by the way which makes it easier to remove the lines you don't need.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #29  
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Will I notice a difference in anything by deleting the smog system cause if not I will just leave it there and remove the crossover tube since the gt40p heads dont have one. I am going to do the egr block off plate though. I just dont want a headache when i get the engine back in after all this work and it not run because i didnt leave something hooked up or left the wrong thing hooked up. I may tackle that on down the road after this build.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #30  
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The smog air pump produces an insignificant amount of drag so removing it will make no difference to power or milage, the smog system itself is only active at cold start the rest of the time it just pumps air back to atmosphere.
 
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