looking for performance mods
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
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looking for performance mods
Hi im Hotrodx199, you can call me Hotrod. I drive a 1976 F250 with a very stock 390 with a 2 bbl carb and a single 2 1/2 burnt glasspack on it. I would like to know some simple bolt on mods that will raise performance around the 300 hp range, i want to keep it an N/A engine. I figure headers and a 4 barrel carb would help, but what else could? A chevy S10 with a 4 cylinder can pass me easily, so i want to beef up my engine just a little bit.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
Easy bolt ons would be headers, 4bbl carb and intake(dualplane). You can decide after that if you want to get a new cam. Word to the wise, don't bother with an Edel. Performer intake, you won't gain anything but less backache when you have to pick it up. 600-650cfm on the carb. Other than that, a standard tune up (filters, plugs, wires) always helps an old engine get a little pep in its step.
Oh and Welcome to FTE!
Edit: By the way are you sure you have a 390 and not a 360? The only way to know is to check the stroke.
Oh and Welcome to FTE!
Edit: By the way are you sure you have a 390 and not a 360? The only way to know is to check the stroke.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 2
From: Santa Fe Tx
welcome to fte, ditto to what sleepy said i like your truck btw. i have a 1979 f350 flat bed with a ''c'' code mustang motor and a granny 4 with a brownie everyone passes me up but that truck can pull anything just remebr that lol
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Easy bolt ons would be headers, 4bbl carb and intake(dualplane). You can decide after that if you want to get a new cam. Word to the wise, don't bother with an Edel. Performer intake, you won't gain anything but less backache when you have to pick it up. 600-650cfm on the carb. Other than that, a standard tune up (filters, plugs, wires) always helps an old engine get a little pep in its step.
Oh and Welcome to FTE!
Edit: By the way are you sure you have a 390 and not a 360? The only way to know is to check the stroke.
Oh and Welcome to FTE!
Edit: By the way are you sure you have a 390 and not a 360? The only way to know is to check the stroke.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
The first thing I would do is the headers and exhaust. The factory manifolds are very restrictive. The carb sounds fine.
To check the stroke get a wooden dowel and remove a spark plug. Put dowel in the hole and have a friend manually turn it over. Make a mark at the top and bottom of the stroke and measure the distance. 3 1/2"=360, 3 3/4"=390.
To check the stroke get a wooden dowel and remove a spark plug. Put dowel in the hole and have a friend manually turn it over. Make a mark at the top and bottom of the stroke and measure the distance. 3 1/2"=360, 3 3/4"=390.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: spotsy va
hey man welcome to fte u might want to remember ur tryn to move a 6000 lb truck but i agree w everyone else headers exhaust ,intake, carb double ck ur timing thats got alot to do with performance of ur motor i had a 75 highboy 390 4spd she was no race trk but she was a mule they will PULL anything u put behind it
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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What air cleaner are you running? Just by making sure you have cold air coming in from outside of the hot radiator air stream creates additional power.
Quoted from Schmidt Motor Works Ram Air Cleaner
The amount of horsepower an engine makes is directly related to the density of the air entering the engine.
The Ram Air Cleaner delivers higher density air by reducing the temperature and slightly increasing pressure at high speed.
For each 10° reduction in air temperature you can expect to increase horsepower by 1%.
Considering that under hood temperatures regularly reach 160° when the outside temperature is only 70°, the incoming air temperature may be reduced by up to 90° and gain 9% in horsepower.
On a 400 horsepower engine 9% is 36 horsepower! This cold-air intake made a 35 HP gain on a 466 HP Small Block Chevrolet!
The under hood temperature of the car was 118 degrees, with the SMW Cold Air Cleaner, the air temperature going into the carburetor was reduced to 68 degrees.
a few other suppliers Ram Air Box and Spectre Performance - Official Site
If your running a stock type cleaner just adapt a hose to the intake snout and run it up front someplace for a real cheap and fast boost....
Quoted from Schmidt Motor Works Ram Air Cleaner
The amount of horsepower an engine makes is directly related to the density of the air entering the engine.
The Ram Air Cleaner delivers higher density air by reducing the temperature and slightly increasing pressure at high speed.
For each 10° reduction in air temperature you can expect to increase horsepower by 1%.
Considering that under hood temperatures regularly reach 160° when the outside temperature is only 70°, the incoming air temperature may be reduced by up to 90° and gain 9% in horsepower.
On a 400 horsepower engine 9% is 36 horsepower! This cold-air intake made a 35 HP gain on a 466 HP Small Block Chevrolet!
The under hood temperature of the car was 118 degrees, with the SMW Cold Air Cleaner, the air temperature going into the carburetor was reduced to 68 degrees.
a few other suppliers Ram Air Box and Spectre Performance - Official Site
If your running a stock type cleaner just adapt a hose to the intake snout and run it up front someplace for a real cheap and fast boost....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
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From: Big Sky Country
I'll just echo the thoughts of the others, you're talking about a 3 ton 4wd truck here with the aerodynamics of a refrigerator so it's never gonna be a speed demon even with a mildly juiced up 390, but having said that, you can wake that FE up a bit with a set of headers, straight up timing set, 4bbl carb and aftermarket ignition.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Chino Hills
Like the guy above said headers and a decent dual exhaust will go quite aways or you.
The 650 Edelbrock is a fine choice, but I would try the Edelbrock AVS. Alot out guys here are Holley fans such as myself, but Edels run just fine for 90% of the engines 95% of the time.
I found a Carter AVS a week ago, and have been reading up on it and I am thinking I will give it a shot when I do my 4 barrel swap. This is the carb the Edel is based off of.
The 650 Edelbrock is a fine choice, but I would try the Edelbrock AVS. Alot out guys here are Holley fans such as myself, but Edels run just fine for 90% of the engines 95% of the time.
I found a Carter AVS a week ago, and have been reading up on it and I am thinking I will give it a shot when I do my 4 barrel swap. This is the carb the Edel is based off of.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,168
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
You might want to think about using an aftermarket ignition, MSD, or even converting the distributor to a DS2 and the GM 4 pin module. www.gofast4less.com
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Do you know a pair of headers where i can change the starter fairly easy? My dad had a '70 with a 360 and headers and it took him 4 hours to change a starter, but of course it had 2wd headers on a 4wd and the idiot before my dad got it welded the collectors to the exhaust...
And i still use the stock air cleaner, i used to always flip the cover just to hear my 2 barrel scream, but it probably gets a lot of hot air drawn in that way
And i still use the stock air cleaner, i used to always flip the cover just to hear my 2 barrel scream, but it probably gets a lot of hot air drawn in that way
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
, until i invested in a mini high torque starter, now header/starter clearance is not an issue.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
In order and as funds permit, I'd start with headers and dual exhaust, then address the induction (carb (600-650 cfm), intake, and free-flowing air filter), and then the ignition.
After that, it's really up to you... cooling (shroud, fan clutch, bigger radiator) or charging (3G alternator, HD cabling).
Time to get serious? Do a cam swap before the ignition. More serious? Aluminum heads with the carb, intake, and cam as a total top end package. It can live with the stock ignition.
After that, it's really up to you... cooling (shroud, fan clutch, bigger radiator) or charging (3G alternator, HD cabling).
Time to get serious? Do a cam swap before the ignition. More serious? Aluminum heads with the carb, intake, and cam as a total top end package. It can live with the stock ignition.
Last edited by HIO Silver; Apr 11, 2011 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Fergot the dern intake!!
