The link I posted above is the single function reservoir you need if you are going to eliminate the tank all together and run off just the one tank.

Also, the duel reservoir have little o-rings that can swell up and cause the reservoir not the switch. Replacing these o-rings have fix alot of others problems with the reservoir. Here is a link to the fix:

Ford Duel Function Reservoir Fix

Ford Duel Function Reservoir

 

All I'm saying is it's easier to fix an existing problem than to jerry-rig something that may or may not be safe.

And if the pump doesn't work, I'd wager that the sending unit isn't in any better condition.

However, if you Really want to convert to single tank, check out a junkyard and see how the single-setup is done and pick parts off to make your's a single.

 

Hey thanks im going to order it. By the way after a search under reservoir i came up with
F1UZ9B263B which is the dual function reservoir. when u put this into fordparts web site they do come up under the part#. just much more expensive. The ebay store is called auto parts direct to you. Im sure salvaged it would be cheaper but this ones new and has a lifetime warranty

 

9B263 is the Ford base part number for the dual function reservoir. Ford made a couple of dual function reservoirs for the 87-89 E & F Series with slight improvements with each one.

E7TZ-9B263-A was replaced with F0UZ-9B263-A
F0UZ-9B263-A was replaced with F1UZ-9B263-A
F1UZ-9B263-A was replaced with F1UZ-9B263-B

If you are going to keep both tanks and replace the DFR, I would also replace the in-tank fuel pump and sending unit. You can pick a new one up for less then $100. I would just stay away from the Airtech units as I have heard they are junk. I went with a Carter brand pump and sending unit which is make by Federal-Mogul.

 

oops i think thats exactly what i replaced it with. well see after i replace the reservoir weather it holds up i guess.

 

tdcarter72, thanks for the part number and note about replaced/improved part number info. Off Amazon looking at $187.

djma1, thanks for posting your issues, as they appear to be mine.

Good thread and a lot of help to me.

Cheers!

 

I put Carter/Federal Mogul's in mine and they didn't last a month. Had to drop both tanks AGAIN and replace them both.

 

Update, have replaced DFR. Still have a problem. Rear fuel not flowing when rear fuel tank selected. The front tank is feeding the engine by suction from high pressure pump and the return fuel line is going to the front tank. No cross feed now, but still having fuel starvation after about 20 miles of city driving. Seems like the high pressure pump is over heating as when at idle of waiting for a light the truck starts to stall. Verify fuel starvation on stall by mechanical fuel gauge on fuel rail on engine was reading less than 20 psi.

Attempting to install mech pressure gauge on tank feed lines to DFR and supply line to high pressure pump to verify rear tank not pumping, which would cause the DFR not to switch. Difficult to find Tee block with two 5/16 bung fittings and 1/4 NPT female fitting for 1 1/2 mech fuel pressure gauge.

Will post pics when I install them. Really not wanting to drop rear tank and replace in tank pump but that is where I am heading once pressure from intanks pump is verified.

 

do you have a pump in the fuel tanks ? there should be a low pressure in tanks and 1 high pressure on the frame ! if low pressure stops working then you will have problems like what you describe !

 

Update.....

After chasing this issue found the best way to analysis was removing bed. Short bed so only six bed bolts. Two near cab frozen. Replaced with grade 8 bolts. Lifted bed with cherry picker.

New intank Carter fuel pump had failed. Replaced under warranty, via Pepboys.

Found that running new fuel hoses, clear see through, from Helix, allowed me to see fuel moving into and out of DFR. Also by pinching fuel hose together was able to feel the pressure developed by intank pumps. I did install 15 psi mechanical gauges but they did not read much if any pressure, so feeling the fuel flow from the tank, DFR and return lines from the engine was far more effective. And when pinching the fuel hose between my fingers a turbulent flow was induced which I could see in the clear hose by bubbles of fuel.

Once everything was tested. Intank pumps, and high pressure pump by hot wires to pumps before installation, and once again with hot wire through open connector atop tank. I re installed bed.

Test drove. Ran fine 100 miles.

Then I began to notice high pitch sound from high pressure pump whenever the rear tank was selected.

I then pinched the return line with my finger at the exit/return hose out of the DFR, to the rear tank. This increased the pressure in the DFR. I believe this opened the DFR valve completely for the rear tank, and the high pressure pump then ran/sounded normal as it did on the front tank. This was done maybe 20 times and since the valve seems to open completely and is no longer "stiff".

Note while pressure testing every point in the fuel system with mechanical pressure gauges I made a hose/fine between the high pressure pump and filter. The Helix fuel clear fuel hose ruptured after about 70 miles/4hrs of use at 60 psi. EFI hose necessary after high pressure fuel pump!