Distributor Q
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: New York City
Distributor Q
What type of distributor is this? My current timing is 10deg/600RPM and 35deg/2800RPM. Degrees begin to advance immediately once RPM increases. Advance is a lot faster in lower RPM range and slows down on higher RPMs. Also degree drops when I adjust idle lower than 600 RPM (normal?). I've been told that advance should not begin increase before 1000RPM. Correct me if I am wrong. This makes me think that I need to re-curve this thing properly. Before I rip into it, I'd like to get some heads up advice.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
No, I don't think it should be on mechanical advance at only 600RPMs, was that with the vacuum advance disconnected? (in case you have vacuum when you shouldn't)
It is, from my observations, pretty normal for the stock Ford distributors to advance quickly and then taper off. The distributors have two springs in them. Usually, one weak, one strong. The strong one is LOOSE, so the weak one is controlling the advance until the strong one tightens up.
From what you said, I'd open it up and see what's going on - the weak one might have stretched and it's allowing advance at below 600RPM.
It is, from my observations, pretty normal for the stock Ford distributors to advance quickly and then taper off. The distributors have two springs in them. Usually, one weak, one strong. The strong one is LOOSE, so the weak one is controlling the advance until the strong one tightens up.
From what you said, I'd open it up and see what's going on - the weak one might have stretched and it's allowing advance at below 600RPM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
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It looks like a Ford distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor conversion kit installed.
Your timing figures sound fine.
The timing comes on a bit slower as the rpms go up is likely due to one of the advance mechanism springs being stronger than the other and with a bit of play in the spring end loops, which should be normal.
Having the advance not start until the engine rpm goes above idle is a recommendation. I think it's to prevent engine hunting around idle. My distributor seems not to follow this rule and is about 5 degress advanced at 750 rpm. As I use a fairly high idle timing, this helps me when cranking the engine over as it's easier on the start motor. I havn't had any trouble with hunting.
Overall, your distributor sounds like it's working fine to me.
Your timing figures sound fine.
The timing comes on a bit slower as the rpms go up is likely due to one of the advance mechanism springs being stronger than the other and with a bit of play in the spring end loops, which should be normal.
Having the advance not start until the engine rpm goes above idle is a recommendation. I think it's to prevent engine hunting around idle. My distributor seems not to follow this rule and is about 5 degress advanced at 750 rpm. As I use a fairly high idle timing, this helps me when cranking the engine over as it's easier on the start motor. I havn't had any trouble with hunting.
Overall, your distributor sounds like it's working fine to me.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
Krewat beat me to the answer. I type too slow....LOL.
One advantage of not having the advance start a idle, is when you set the timing up statically, but that's not a common thing to do these days unless the distributor had been out and you have to install it with no marks as a guideline.
One advantage of not having the advance start a idle, is when you set the timing up statically, but that's not a common thing to do these days unless the distributor had been out and you have to install it with no marks as a guideline.
Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 75
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Distributor Questions on 76 F150 360cid
First some history. I was losing coolant via headgasket so I replaced top end gaskets and overhauled top end. The truck started up and ran fine for a week. At that time I had the distributor lock up on me and the truck sputtered spit and died. I replaced the distributir w/ OEM style. I could get it to run,had it about timed but it never would settle into time, then it started puking coolant out the exhaust and would not run worth a darn. I retorqued the intake bolts but it didnt fix it. I replaced the gaskets again and about to crank her up.
Now the questions.
-What is the little ball looking item in the distributor hole down on the block? looks like it will fit inside the dist at bottom of shaft.
-I remember reading in here that the old 76 Ford 360 was "detuned" and performance and milage could be inproved w/ proper adjustments. Any inputs to get it running this way?
thank you all for the input, I really like this forum.
Now the questions.
-What is the little ball looking item in the distributor hole down on the block? looks like it will fit inside the dist at bottom of shaft.
-I remember reading in here that the old 76 Ford 360 was "detuned" and performance and milage could be inproved w/ proper adjustments. Any inputs to get it running this way?
thank you all for the input, I really like this forum.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
You might be looking at the oil pump driveshaft. I suppose it could look like a ball when viewed from above. Anyway, it's a hex shaft and does fit into the distributor. The dist turns it, and it turns the oil pump. Somtimes, you have to play with things a bit to get the dist to drop all the way down. Usually turning the engine over a tiny bit with a socket wrench on the end of the crank will do it.
