Camshaft position sensor
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Camshaft position sensor
How do I go about replacing the CMP? I've looked everywhere and can't find detailed instructions on how to do it. I was hoping someone here could tell me. I have the p0340 code which tells me circuit malfunction. I found the sensors are really cheap, $25 so I'm just going to buy one and replace it. I am not sure where it is but I think its under the coil packs? Should I remove those first? And what about this realignment tool? Do I need to do that just to replace the sensor? One more question, will replacing the sensor get rid of the chirping noise? Thanks guys....
97 Ford Explorer AWD
FYI: Symptoms are: poor fuel economy, sluggish engine response, chirping noise coming from under coil packs
97 Ford Explorer AWD
FYI: Symptoms are: poor fuel economy, sluggish engine response, chirping noise coming from under coil packs
Last edited by 4.0 Beast; Mar 30, 2011 at 10:34 AM. Reason: added symptoms
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Do you have the V6 or the V8? At least on the V8, the CMP is installed where the distributor would have been on an older engine.
I don't have experience changing these on the V6 or the V8 so I cannot speak to the need for the alignment tool. On the Taurus the CMP can easily be the cause of a chirping noise and a new one should eliminate that chirp. I imagine the same holds true here.
-Rod
I don't have experience changing these on the V6 or the V8 so I cannot speak to the need for the alignment tool. On the Taurus the CMP can easily be the cause of a chirping noise and a new one should eliminate that chirp. I imagine the same holds true here.
-Rod
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Have the v8 and i found the sensor. Pulled the connector with the 3 wires and sprayed tuner spray in both ends. If that doesnt fix it i dont know how to get a socket wrench in there cuz its real tight. The wires all look good all the way back so i suspect the actual sensor plus its chirping.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Northfield, MI
If it's chirping then don't be surprised if the synchronizer is destroyed due to the sensor coming apart on the inside. When the bearings go bad in the synchronizer, the vibrations can knock the internal parts of the sensor apart. They then get tangled up with the rotating part of the synchronizer and everything gets chewed up.
If you have to replace the synchronizer due to damage, you will need the special tool to install it.
If you have to replace the synchronizer due to damage, you will need the special tool to install it.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Alright....... I picked up a new CMP at AZ and will install it in the morning (when truck is cool)... $25 and also a snubby socket wrench which i didn't have. The tuning spray didn't work, CEL came back on, same code (p0340). Will let you know how it goes tomorrow....
FYI - the guy at AZ said I wouldnt need the synchronizer tool just to replace the sensor (I don't trust those guys that much, theyve been wrong many times before - we'll see...)
FYI - the guy at AZ said I wouldnt need the synchronizer tool just to replace the sensor (I don't trust those guys that much, theyve been wrong many times before - we'll see...)
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
One other thing, how do I check continuity of the circuit? I have a multimeter but don't know which color wires are what... I just wanna make sure the problem isnt with the wiring. Can I do that with a multimeter on the wires?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Ok thanks aquanaut and shorod. I needed both to diagnose.. now I know which wire is which and how to test. I'm going to pull off the wire harness and test that with my multimeter in dc volts and check ground as well...
the readings will be correct with the key in the on position right? I don't have to try and start the vehicle just to get a reading?
the readings will be correct with the key in the on position right? I don't have to try and start the vehicle just to get a reading?
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Elder User
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Alright...... I was able to replace the sensor, what a PITA because I was able to do it without removing anything else like the coilpacks or the heater/coolant hoses. Anyway, I pulled the old one off and it was all mangled. Here is a pic:
And here is what the new one looks like (just to compare):
The chirping is gone and I feel more response from the engine however p0340 is quick to come back on just like before, about 4 seconds after starting the truck. I tested the wires as well as the alternator output and battery voltage and all is within limits. Could a messed up synchronizor throw a 0340 code? I looked at and felt the top of the synch and it seemed decent however I didnt pull it out because i don't have the realignment tool nor would I have had enough clearance. Truck is running smoother than ever now so I'm not sure where to go from here....
And here is what the new one looks like (just to compare):
The chirping is gone and I feel more response from the engine however p0340 is quick to come back on just like before, about 4 seconds after starting the truck. I tested the wires as well as the alternator output and battery voltage and all is within limits. Could a messed up synchronizor throw a 0340 code? I looked at and felt the top of the synch and it seemed decent however I didnt pull it out because i don't have the realignment tool nor would I have had enough clearance. Truck is running smoother than ever now so I'm not sure where to go from here....
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 668
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From: Northfield, MI
Did you actually LOOK at the synchronizer? The mangled, twisted, semi-flat piece of metal in your sensor pic is part of the synchro that was broken off when the sensor came apart and jammed, like I described in post #4.
Take the sensor back off and look at the top of the synchro. There should be a metal 'post' that sticks up from the center rotating part of the synchro. If that is gone, you need to replace the synchro.
Take the sensor back off and look at the top of the synchro. There should be a metal 'post' that sticks up from the center rotating part of the synchro. If that is gone, you need to replace the synchro.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
I found one here and ordered it:
Ford Explorer Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer - AM Autoparts
2 huge questions, does the synchro just pull out straight up? And since I'll be using the alignment tool, do I need to do all those positions with TDC and 0 degrees and all that?
Ford Explorer Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer - AM Autoparts
2 huge questions, does the synchro just pull out straight up? And since I'll be using the alignment tool, do I need to do all those positions with TDC and 0 degrees and all that?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 668
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From: Northfield, MI
Since the tab is broken off, then yes, you will have to set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke.
The synchronizer is just like a distributor, just remove the hold-down bolt, twist back and forth and pull. Note the orientation of the original before you remove it and set the new one in the same position. If it is a tooth off either way, it is ok as long as you can get the sensor on without it hitting anything.
When installing the new one, remove the sensor, install the tool on top (you will have to rotate the synchro to get it lined up,) put some oil or grease on the o-ring on the housing, and slide it in. As the gears mesh it will rotate slightly, so account for this when you are lining it up.
The oil pump drive shaft is driven by the sychro and sometimes will come out when you remove it. If so, I usually take a very small piece of paper and put it on the end of the drive shaft then wedge the shaft into the synchro before installation. The paper won't hurt anything if it comes loose in the engine. Be careful not to drop the shaft into the synchro hole, or you will be pulling the oil pan to retrieve it.
The synchronizer is just like a distributor, just remove the hold-down bolt, twist back and forth and pull. Note the orientation of the original before you remove it and set the new one in the same position. If it is a tooth off either way, it is ok as long as you can get the sensor on without it hitting anything.
When installing the new one, remove the sensor, install the tool on top (you will have to rotate the synchro to get it lined up,) put some oil or grease on the o-ring on the housing, and slide it in. As the gears mesh it will rotate slightly, so account for this when you are lining it up.
The oil pump drive shaft is driven by the sychro and sometimes will come out when you remove it. If so, I usually take a very small piece of paper and put it on the end of the drive shaft then wedge the shaft into the synchro before installation. The paper won't hurt anything if it comes loose in the engine. Be careful not to drop the shaft into the synchro hole, or you will be pulling the oil pan to retrieve it.