ignition problem please help!
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 33
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
I am quite ready to sell my Bronco at this point. It has this problem where it doesn't want to start if it has been running for a while, and sometimes it will just die while I'm driving down the road. I just had alot of electrical work done on it. Replaced the alternator, starter relay, ignition module, plugs, wires, distributor (the whole thing). The wierd thing is when it does decide to start, it always starts when I let go of the key instead of when I have it all of the way cranked. When it won't start it sounds like it starts to fire up for a rev or 2, but never gets started. It always seems to pick the worst times to do this too...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
ignition problem please help!
Sounds like one of the start terminals in your ignition switch is burnt out, probably from the bad starter relay you replaced already. If the engine is still spinning fast enough when you let the key go back to RUN, it cranks up. It'll be the one that feeds power to the ignition during cranking, so find it in the back of the Haynes manual and put a test light on that wire and watch it while you crank. If it flickers or goes out, the ignition system isn't getting power.
Since it can also die while driving, it may be the power wire from the switch to the ignition that's losing contact.
If you'd put more info about your truck (year, engine, mods, etc.) in your posts, your signature, or your profile, I might be able to suggest other possibilities.
Since it can also die while driving, it may be the power wire from the switch to the ignition that's losing contact.
If you'd put more info about your truck (year, engine, mods, etc.) in your posts, your signature, or your profile, I might be able to suggest other possibilities.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
Sorry, I am still pretty new at this. But I can say I have learned ALOT in the last 8 months of owning a Bronco. Mine is a 1980 with a 351M in it. Stock 2bbl carb which was rebuilt about 6 months ago. It is lifted. Can't tell how high. I can't put it in my signature for some reason it won't let me edit my profile. I don't even live in Denver anymore. I live alot closer to sea level. It started doing this in Denver though. It seemed to get alot better as we went through Nebraska and Iowa. Maybe something to do with the change in elevation? Well, thanks Steve for your help though! I will go check the ignition switch out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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ignition problem please help!
I have to agree with Steve's first suggestion. It sounds like a faulty ignition switch. I have had this happen on other vehicles, and a new switch always fixed it.
The clue is that it will fire when the pressure is released from the start position. It has to be a bad switch.
______
The clue is that it will fire when the pressure is released from the start position. It has to be a bad switch.
______
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
Steve and everyone....,
I changed the fuel filter twice in the last 6 months. Once before and once after the rebuild. I tested the switch at the ignition module with straight pins (i think i did it right) and it is getting juice, but that means nothing. It is very intermittent when it does this. I am going to go ahead and replace the switch though to see if it helps. I'll let you know what happens. (I hope I can figure out how to do this.....
) lol. Thanks for your help!
I changed the fuel filter twice in the last 6 months. Once before and once after the rebuild. I tested the switch at the ignition module with straight pins (i think i did it right) and it is getting juice, but that means nothing. It is very intermittent when it does this. I am going to go ahead and replace the switch though to see if it helps. I'll let you know what happens. (I hope I can figure out how to do this.....
) lol. Thanks for your help!
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
ok, replaced the ignition switch and found that I had completely tested it wrong 
BUT everything seems to be working great! Thanks for your help everyone!
BUT everything seems to be working great! Thanks for your help everyone!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
ignition problem please help!
Wait a week or so, and if it's still working fine, crack the old switch open and look at the terminals.
If it acts up again in a few days, then the old switch is probably still good, so keep it as a spare.
If it acts up again in a few days, then the old switch is probably still good, so keep it as a spare.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 33
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
I guess I did speak too soon. It left me stranded in a parking lot again yesterday. I popped open the hood and my choke was totally closed off. So I open the choke and it still doesn't work. I've been having alot of carb problems. I'm saving up for a reman. carb so I will see if this helps. The one on there right now leaks at the throttle body and floods alot among other things. But it still is starting on the release of the switch (when it's not flooded). When its cold it does just fine, and just after I shut it off it's fine, but if I shut it off and let it sit for 5-10 minutes it doesn't want to start. You can see me in various parking lots around town with the trucks hood up shouting curses at it.....
Posting Guru
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ignition problem please help!
Jake, don't give up on it yet. Your start bypass circuit has an open for some reason. That's why it won't fire when the starter is turning, and then fires after the key is released.
I assume you have the DuraSpark II ignition. You mentioned replacing the ignition module. Do you have the one with the "Blue strain relief"? If so, check the plug-in connector that has the red and white wires going to it. Make sure you have good connections, and if you have a multi-meter, check the red wire for voltage with the key on. Make sure these wires aren't reversed. The red must plug into red, and white into white.
There is also a black wire going from the module to the distributor (in the four-wire connector). It is the ground wire, and you can check it with an ohmmeter to insure it is actually grounding.
I assume you have the DuraSpark II ignition. You mentioned replacing the ignition module. Do you have the one with the "Blue strain relief"? If so, check the plug-in connector that has the red and white wires going to it. Make sure you have good connections, and if you have a multi-meter, check the red wire for voltage with the key on. Make sure these wires aren't reversed. The red must plug into red, and white into white.
There is also a black wire going from the module to the distributor (in the four-wire connector). It is the ground wire, and you can check it with an ohmmeter to insure it is actually grounding.
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Freshman User
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From: Indiana
ignition problem please help!
This is odd. I do have the module with the blue connector, but my red/white wires were switched. So I matched red-red and white-white. Turn the key and it's now starting when the starter is turning, but when I let go of the key it dies. So I put them back to their normal position and turned the key and it started just fine. So I turn it of and crimp the wire connectors where I had cut the wire and it does it's thing again. hmmmm......still need to check the ground wire though.... i forgot...lol
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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ignition problem please help!
Jake, there is a resistor wire under the dash that probably has an open in it. Try connecting the red/red and white/white wires back up, and test the coil positive terminal for voltage with the key at the "run" position.
If there is no voltage present, you have an open in the run circuit (wire running from the switch to the coil). You can either replace the resistor wire, or run a solid wire from the switch to the coil, with an aftermarket resistor in between.
Check the black ground wire first, just to rule out a bad ground.
If there is no voltage present, you have an open in the run circuit (wire running from the switch to the coil). You can either replace the resistor wire, or run a solid wire from the switch to the coil, with an aftermarket resistor in between.
Check the black ground wire first, just to rule out a bad ground.
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