another front cab mount?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
After doing these on a 65 I wouldnt even try to do it with the front clip on. Also it may sound like a pain but if you have the means just pull the motor and save yourself some headaches. If you hava 6 cyl it maybe easier but I doubt it. The tunnel area is a real pain to weld with everything in the way. I just let the rear of the cab fastened so you alignment stays within reason and just jack the front up and down. My guess is if you need cab mounts you probably need floors.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
I have the I6 so I think I can manage with the motor in but actually the floor pans are in excellent shape. not sure how that happened but I dont have to replace those lol. its just the very bottoms of the cab mounts that are shot.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
If they are rusty and just gone I would say they are done for. But if yours are like some other I seen that are just sinking and cracked around the bolt hole I would just fix the ones you have. We have used a 1/4" in plate to reinforce the bottoms and it works great.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
other than a lack of originality and a slight lack of structural support, for a quick fix till I get parts to fix it. would it be bad to just put some spacers or blocks inbetween the cab and the frame rails to reposition it? I would of course bolt them down or something so they didnt fall out over bumps.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
For around the house while fixing I would put a 2x4 or something under it so the doors dont hit the fenders. Other than that I wouldn't do that and drive it. The cab is meant to be fastened to the frame and wouldnt be very good in an accident if its rigged.
