Anywhere in the top 180 degree radius and you'll be fine, that way no mud, road debris, etc. gunks up the calipers.

 

Figure out lift first then do angle on bracket. Your truck is divorce t case so your rear angle is steeper than married t case. BUT a divorce setup is more ideal don't let anyone tell u different. It's the best of both worlds having the front driveshaft and rear at equal angles vs with a married case the front shaft gets steep but you rear is better. I prefer divorce that's how every monster truck has it's t case in the center.
I would build a cv rear shaft too with a 8" lift. A cv shaft cuts your driveshaft angle in half by sharing the angle between two top ujoints. So when it's done you NEED to rotate diff up to compensate and have pinion basically pointed directly at tcase..

 

Any chance you have any pics of the cv shaft your talking about that you could post up I'm figuring I will need custom driveshafts made anyways with the setup I will have 71 crew cab 8" lift 460 motor zf5 trans Dana 24 t case until I can get a np205

 

Man I got pics of everything! It's so much easier to describe with pics. I'll post them up later when I get home. Anyways a tip on finding a cv shaft find a 2000ish superduty front shaft with a 1350 1 ton shaft for cheap and cut it to length to work. I paid 7-800$ all new parts for mine but a used one could be found for about $100.

 

You can mount them at any angle, they won't get any less gunk being up than down. As long as the bleeders are the highest part of the caliper than you're good. If youre gonna be rock crawling then you may wanna mount them towards the top, but with a leaf spring truck you may find that banjo bolt and pin access are much better with them angled down a little.

 

I'll be looking forward to seeing some pics good Thing you mentioned the cv setup It's something to look into and another option and maybe better option then
regular driveshafts I think ill go with the bolt on brackets that sell for $47 a pair then once my driveline angles are setup ill see if there positioned right or not if not ill turn them to right position and either weld or try drilling new holes to bolt them up or do both

 

Way too much effort to post all the info you need on here when I've covered it. Read my post on this thread page 2,3 . I cover all the basics on how and why you should run a cv shaft.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-shaft-2.html

 

good thread with pics and tech talk. if you don't mind when i get to setting up my angles and getting driveshafts can i ask you for some advise? which would be better to run a solid driveshaft with the double u joints or a slip driveshaft (not slip yoke) with the double joint? dumb question but what makes it be a cv shaft is just a double u joint setup right?

 

just to clarify with everyone that i'll be getting the right parts from the parts store to go to disc brakes on my 79 DANA 60 my parts list is this

parts list:
1984 chevy K20 3/4 ton
rotors
calipers
caliper bolts (4)
pads
brake lines
custom DANA 60 brackets from place of my choice

 

Well you have to have a splined slip joint( which is a slip yoke) for it to be able to shorten and lengthen on suspension travel like all vehicle driveshafts.
This is what makes it a cv shaft


It will have 3 joints in total so it's critical that the diff is rotated up to pointing at the t case.

 

As for brake lines I used stock front rubber ones from a 80's chevette car which were perfect and dirt cheap.

 

my mistake should of clarified more about the slip yoke i meant meaning having it on the driveshaft instead of going in the trans/tcase by 3 total joints meaning 2 at the back of t case and 1 at the diff? and the parts list is correct for my application right? just maybe change the brake lines for the chevette as they may be cheaper

 

you nailed it, I also used Chevy car front lines, as stated they were dirt cheap, I did have to buy little adapters because my hard line was bigger than the car line/calipers. I can only confirm this on a 14FF and not a D60 though.

 

If you go with those chevette car brake lines maybe post up a part # to this thread

Here is a shot of the length of the ones I used

 

I actually have the part numbers around, I'll find them in the next 24 hours.