Quick lift questions
#1
Quick lift questions
I have a 79 f250 4x4, currently I am running 35x12.5x16.5 bfg's on what I presume to be stock suspention. I would really like to put on some aggressive looking 40'' tires. What kind (how tall) of a lift am I looking at? And can I just get my springs rearched or am I beter off doing a shackle flip and all that jazz? I live in Ontario Canada and parts for these rigs are becoming scarce. Any input would be great.
#2
i have a 79 250 also it runs a 3" body and a 6" suspension and will clear 42" tire in off road situations without hitting... you shoudl be okay with a 6" suspension lift and maybe add a leafs all around if the 6" doesn't quite get it...i'm adding a 2" add a leaf so that i can clear 44s...
#3
i have a 79 250 also it runs a 3" body and a 6" suspension and will clear 42" tire in off road situations without hitting... you shoudl be okay with a 6" suspension lift and maybe add a leafs all around if the 6" doesn't quite get it...i'm adding a 2" add a leaf so that i can clear 44s...
#4
there skyjacker softride fronts rpring packs and blocks in the rear..for now...gonna due the flip this spring, will help reduce axle wrap and eliminate some of if not all the blocks...i run 2 shocks ea side up front and 1 rear ea side.. rides 1/2 decent for a truck on 40s but still flexes out nice in the muddy ruts... and may get a little worse with add a leafs..but i'll live..
#5
Ok great thanks for the reply I'd love to see a pic off your rig and susp. Setup maybe I will go bigger, nuttin wrong with big'ol meats. Is your rig a dd or should I say legal on the pavement? I want to drive mine round the city an blast loud exaust beside the lil fast n not so furious rice burners! Lol
#6
Get a set of pro comp 6.5" lift front springs from your parts store from a 2000ish gas superduty. Cost ya 300$ CND and all you need to do is dremel the front spring hanger hole open a tad bigger for the larger spring eye bolt and maybe a slightly longer set of shackles on the back of the front spring as well. For the rear do a shackle flip.
If you do just a simple shackle flip you will only get maybe 2"s lift. Your best result is throw away the rear mounted hangers and replace them with the ones that are your front ones. These have a lower mount and will gain you more lift. Now to even things out you can use a spring hanger from a early 80's chev truck for best results. It is very long and will help your spring sit even. It's critical on how you mount the rear hanger though so that the shackle can kick back and not get into a bind. I got lots of pics if this stuff I can post up only if your interested.
If you do just a simple shackle flip you will only get maybe 2"s lift. Your best result is throw away the rear mounted hangers and replace them with the ones that are your front ones. These have a lower mount and will gain you more lift. Now to even things out you can use a spring hanger from a early 80's chev truck for best results. It is very long and will help your spring sit even. It's critical on how you mount the rear hanger though so that the shackle can kick back and not get into a bind. I got lots of pics if this stuff I can post up only if your interested.
#7
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#8
#9
Get a set of pro comp 6.5" lift front springs from your parts store from a 2000ish gas superduty. Cost ya 300$ CND and all you need to do is dremel the front spring hanger hole open a tad bigger for the larger spring eye bolt and maybe a slightly longer set of shackles on the back of the front spring as well. For the rear do a shackle flip.
If you do just a simple shackle flip you will only get maybe 2"s lift. Your best result is throw away the rear mounted hangers and replace them with the ones that are your front ones. These have a lower mount and will gain you more lift. Now to even things out you can use a spring hanger from a early 80's chev truck for best results. It is very long and will help your spring sit even. It's critical on how you mount the rear hanger though so that the shackle can kick back and not get into a bind. I got lots of pics if this stuff I can post up only if your interested.
If you do just a simple shackle flip you will only get maybe 2"s lift. Your best result is throw away the rear mounted hangers and replace them with the ones that are your front ones. These have a lower mount and will gain you more lift. Now to even things out you can use a spring hanger from a early 80's chev truck for best results. It is very long and will help your spring sit even. It's critical on how you mount the rear hanger though so that the shackle can kick back and not get into a bind. I got lots of pics if this stuff I can post up only if your interested.
The 77.5-79 shackles for the front work well. These are the shackles you want if you have a 77.5 or earlier as those have a shorter shackle. It's definitely the best lift for the money.
#10
This page has some info and pics some of us put up recently, and will give you some ideas as far as the rear goes.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-tires-3.html
EDIT: I just realized all the same folks posting in here are the same ones that posted there... What gives?
I haven't messed with my gallery in a while, but some pics from my SD install should still be there...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-tires-3.html
EDIT: I just realized all the same folks posting in here are the same ones that posted there... What gives?
I haven't messed with my gallery in a while, but some pics from my SD install should still be there...
#11
#12
I know the feeling, was looking for an alternative for the rear besides blocks or a flip, because I still use my trucks for hauling and towing. Only other options seem to be re-arched springs or drop hangers. The chebbie 64" springs also come from the factory in different arches, and I was told some of them will get you some lift even without flipping the shackle. Still need to move hangers around though.
#14
#15
heres some copy and pasting from my build thread on pirate
My first attempt at this my angle was to far forward and not kicked back vertical enough and the hanger over extended inwards in a bind!!! Only way to undo it was lift from frame and pull it back. I realized my problem and redrilled the hanger holes to leave shackle leaning back to swing with suspension.
Live and learn.
The first hanger is the chevy one i mentioned. Nice and tall to make up for the rear flip. The back hanger second pic is the front one now in the back location which works perfect.
****NOTE see how the shackle kicks back a bit from vertical.. you need it like that or it will bind like i was saying
best way to mock it up is drill opposite corners of the hanger for maybe small 1/4" bolts to hold it on then lower the weight of truck down. If the shackle doesnt kick back then move the hanger more forward and re drill. this way you only leave 2 small little holes in your frame and could easily plug weld them if needed. you can actually see the extra holes i got in my frame from having to push it forward after it bound up
My first attempt at this my angle was to far forward and not kicked back vertical enough and the hanger over extended inwards in a bind!!! Only way to undo it was lift from frame and pull it back. I realized my problem and redrilled the hanger holes to leave shackle leaning back to swing with suspension.
Live and learn.
The first hanger is the chevy one i mentioned. Nice and tall to make up for the rear flip. The back hanger second pic is the front one now in the back location which works perfect.
****NOTE see how the shackle kicks back a bit from vertical.. you need it like that or it will bind like i was saying
best way to mock it up is drill opposite corners of the hanger for maybe small 1/4" bolts to hold it on then lower the weight of truck down. If the shackle doesnt kick back then move the hanger more forward and re drill. this way you only leave 2 small little holes in your frame and could easily plug weld them if needed. you can actually see the extra holes i got in my frame from having to push it forward after it bound up