I purchased my F-350 Lariat loaded with every option available and have been following this site since I purchased the vehicle. I have taken it into the dealer on 4 different ocassions for my transmission shifting like a high school kid learning how to drive a stick shift. The dealer claims to have fixed it each time with a re-flash, and every time I drive it away it has never been resolved. Additionally, when I put it in 4 wheel drive it sounds like someone hits the differential with a sledge hammer, but this is not to be outdone by the loud knocking noise that occurs under my feet every time I turn left...Oh and BTW, they told me the new diesel was going to get anywhere from 17-22 MPG and it actually gets 11. OMG I almost forgot about the check engine light that they can't make go away but they tell me it's just a programming issue and not to worry about it. Man it's getting hard to keep up with all this stuff. Ford has agreed to buy my vehicle back but I have to purchase another Ford or Lincoln of equal or greater value as part of the terms. The kicker is they are charging me $6K for "usage" for the past seven months, even though 1 month of that "usage" the truck was sitting in the dealer shop. My dealer is the worst place I have ever conducted business and essentially could care less that my $60K purchase has been a nightmare. Words can't describe the amount of time and frustration I have had on this purchase. Good luck to all you out there with these tranny issues, Ford and their dealers are just going to continue to deny it because they can't fix it.

 

Sounds like you gotta lemon, and a incompetent dealer.. Id take the buy back and take my business to a diff dealer. Not all 6.7s are lemons.. Fact alotta people like their 6.7s and their pretty reliable for a first year motor.

 

Yeah I know, I hate to be such a downer and glad that a lot of people aren't experiencing these issues. I'm just bitter I have to pay $6K because I purchased a lemon with issues beyond my control.

 

What is the basis of the buy back?

 

6k for usage aint bad.. Considering when most people "buy" new vehicles and drive em off the lot, they instantly deprciate by 10 grand..

 

I for one am tired of incompetent dealers. Im surrounded by three small town dealers and sad to say id take a big city dealer anytime... For sales or service. I took my '11 with 25k mi to trade for another 11 and small town guy says 32k trade big city guy (30 mi away) says 42k. New truck would be 47k. Not to mention all the bs trying to convince the service manager theres a new tsb out, or that my trans goes into neutral for no reason. Sh@# happens, but the way it is handled means everything. Fighting between fomoco and the dealers is like a bad girlfriend in high school.

 

I hear you man, I didn't buy this truck or the extended warranty because I didn't think it would ever break. I thought that Ford required certain standards of their dealers and that they had technicians that were capable of fixing things, but I was wrong.

Oh at @ I eat hybrids $6K isn't reasonable; I had a 2005 F-150 lariat that I purchased for $34K and sold for $24K 5 years later. Additionally, I am out my tint job, bed liner, rust proofing, scotch guard and over 50 hours of my time and stress on a $60K lemon that Ford and their dealer couldn't fix. So I disagree that I am in any way "winning" here...

 

I would escalate to the owner of the dealership and if he doesn't do the right thing I would get a lawyer. Have you documented everything? If so, you will win this and they will end up paying your lawyer fees as well.

 

Every state has its own version of the "lemon law". We had a car (not a ford) that we went through this with a few years ago. The steps in the process must be specifically followed and documented. We did that and the dealership took our car back and exchanged it for a brand new one. No usage fee, etc. The process took about 3 months to get through.

 

On what basis did Ford do a buy back? Can you post the decision? Which dealership in AK was this at? You should go buy a lotery ticket because you have a one in a million truck. Most have only seen one or two of your issues and hardly anyone has all of them!

From your OP - the clunk going into 4WD is normal, the shifting issues have been greatly improved by 2 flashes, mpg will be 11 if towing some weight and most get in the 16+ range, the CEL if related to the DEF Is supposed to be corrected in the latest flash. This leaves the clunk turning left ..... I would have guessed any reasonable dealer could correct that.

Please update us with the above info. TKS.

 

Yes, please update us.

 

I think you should contact the state attorneys office and lemon law it.

do not use that dealer anymore.

 

FWIW and I don't know if it was a good deal or not, but I was able to get a dealer to do a swap for my Job 1 2011 F250 with 3500 miles and 5 months of use for a new Job 2 2011 F250 at a difference of $2500. Sticker on the Job 2 was $300 more and both trucks were essentially identical.

 

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=230>FORD:
</TD><TD>2008-2011 F-Super Duty</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


This article supersedes TSB 10-7-3 to add a production fix date. ISSUE:

Some 2008-2011 F-Super Duty vehicles built on or before 11/15/2010 may exhibit a pop or clunk noise heard/felt under floor pan when turning, and may be more noticeable when cold.
ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Install Chassis Ear JSP97202 in Rotunda Technician Tool Program or equivalent to the right and left number 1 body support mounts located under the A-pillars.
2. Drive the vehicle using any of the following methods to generate the noise:
   1. Approximately 20 MPH (32 Km/h) with aggressive left/right steering inputs.
   2. Approximately 10 MPH (16 Km/h) while transitioning from a flat road surface to an inclined surface.
   3. Approximately 10 MPH (16 Km/h) drive in a figure eight with steering wheel going lock-to-lock, generally an event that causes some level of frame twist and then returns to normal vehicle attitude.
3. If a noise is heard from either or both of the number 1 body support mounts, proceed to Step 4. If noise is not isolated to either of the number 1 body support mounts, do not continue with this procedure. Use normal diagnostics. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-00.
   <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>USE OF AIR TOOLS TO LOOSEN BODY SUPPORT MOUNT BOLTS CAN CAUSE THE CAGE NUTS TO SPIN INSIDE BODY.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
4. Use hand tools to loosen the number 1 body support mount bolt(s) from the affected side(s). Use air tools to complete removal of the bolt(s).
5. Use a wire wheel to clean all thread lock material from the threads of the body support mount bolt(s).
6. Apply Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer to the threads of the body support mount bolt(s).
7. Reinstall the number 1 body support mount bolt(s) and torque to the high end of specification, 87 lb-ft (118 N-m).
8. Repeat Step 2.
9. If noise is no longer present, remove chassis ear and return vehicle to customer. If noise is still present, loosen all body support mount bolts from the affected side using hand tools except the front end sheet mount (located behind the front bumper). Use air tools to complete removal of the bolts.
10. Use a wire wheel to clean all threadlock material from the threads of the bolts.
11. Raise vehicle cab slightly approximately 1" (25 mm).
12. Install a shim between the floor pan and number 1 upper body support mount that exhibits the noise. (Figure 1)
    
    
    Figure 1 - Article 10-25-3
13. Lower vehicle cab.
14. Apply Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer to the threads of all body support mount bolts.
15. Reinstall number 1 body support mount bolt and torque to the high end of secure specification, 87 lb-ft (118 N-m).
16. Reinstall the remaining body support mount bolts and torque to 76 lb-ft (103 N-m).

 

+1

The issues you have are all 1st year growing pains that have been addressed. It's horrible that you got all of them in one truck, but any competent dealer should be able to get your truck in good working condition much quicker than a month. As for the 11mpg... I have no idea what is causing that unless you are towing or have 4.11 gears, 17" tires and a really heavy foot. I can drive mine like a teenager on his way to his girlfriends house when her parents are out of town... and still not do worse than 13 in the city or 15 on the highway. Being in alaska, you might be on winter blend fuel or worse - pure #1 - which will give you bad mileage all by itself.

Don't lose heart. you have options left at your disposal, and you have a buyback offer on the table already. This will get resolved. Best of luck!