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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

D50 TTB to a solid D50

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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by pengintamer
Why won't an 8lug d44 work?
the drivers spring perch is cast into the pumpkin. It is not like you can weld on a perch in a different location
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #17  
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Why is that? I've seen it done many times.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pengintamer
Why is that? I've seen it done many times.
Ok. Go for it. I will be 1st in line to tell you I told you so
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #19  
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Jeez I was just asking. I've seen first hand people weld pumpkins. You just need the right welder, rod and someone who knows how. No reason to get high and mighty.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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This is the most confusing thread I have seen in awhile. The title says "a solid d50" but then there is all this discussion about a late 70's axle.

And it sounds like you are victim of the "ttb hate" syndrome. Don't knock it till you try it out for awhile. If all the joints are in good shape and you get it aligned at the shop, it will probably do what you want and have decent tire wear to boot. That's really the only thing that may be a disadvantage, is increased tire wear.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #21  
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A 78 d44 will work, you just move the mounting points (perches) outward, or in the case of the drivers side, just weld a new one on altogether...plenty of axle tube to do it with. That's even simpler than making a d60 coil sprung...

Btw, 93-97 d60 outers will work on a sd housing (same housing). Is a d50 different? I've never got a straight answer.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by blucollar4xford

Btw, 93-97 d60 outers will work on a sd housing (same housing). Is a d50 different? I've never got a straight answer.
This is my question. But instead most of the responses are about spring perch issues. Or about the ttb. This is my 4th ford with the ttb front end. I know what it can and can't do. So I want a solid front, even if some think I don't NEED it.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 01:51 AM
  #23  
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The only way to get a straight answer with no one seemingly having one, is to try it, if it don't work, then sell your parts and get a $1500 D60.

These guys have useful info, just not what you want to hear. Take it with a grain of salt and know that it is most everyones interest in here is to help out others.

Welding onto cast metal is from what I hear not too easy of a feat that usually ends up breaking any ways.


2 cents spewed.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 6fifty_f1fifty
The only way to get a straight answer with no one seemingly having one, is to try it, if it don't work, then sell your parts and get a $1500 D60.

These guys have useful info, just not what you want to hear. Take it with a grain of salt and know that it is most everyones interest in here is to help out others.

Welding onto cast metal is from what I hear not too easy of a feat that usually ends up breaking any ways.


2 cents spewed.
Yea, what he said.

The TTB really isn't a bad axle, despite their funky appearance and bad rep. Just like (I think Franklin, maybe) said, the only real downside is extra wear. I didn't have trouble with excessive tire wear so much as the u joints. That being said, I can probably write that off to being 16 and ignorant to maintenance procedures. Anyway, it probably would be best to at least run the TTB50 til it blows IMHO, I think you'll have a tougher time killing it than expected.

as far as running a monobeam front drive axle....can't blame you there, either. I myself just held out for a D60 (that junkyard balljoint axle I mentioned earlier), as it is pretty well a direct bolt in. Now, THAT being said (and like I said before) the housing (NOT including knuckles, spindles, etc.) on a D60 is the same from 93-05 (I think? Not sure when they quit using leaf springs on stupid duties). That would include spring perch width. The trac bars and steering linkage are different and would prolly be a PITA to adapt to an 80-86, but not impossible. Since the super duty D50 is the little brother to the D60, I think you get my point ^^^^

also, a pre-80's axle will fit under an 80-97 truck just fine. You will need to move the perches outward, as the 70's era trucks had narrower frames in the front. But as I said before, more axle tube on the drivers side (than an 85.5-up d60) means room to put a new perch (although if you had a monobeam axle from 85.5-up, it wouldn't need new perches lol). You (very obviously) won't be able to reuse the drivers side perch, but Jegs sells a pair of weld on perches for $12. I think a leaf sprung SAS would be even easier than the popular F-150 SAS, which involves a little fab work and some creativity when properly mounting the trac bar. Anyway, I've seen leaf sprung D44's under plenty of 80's fords, so with a tapemeasure, grinder, patience and a welder, anything is possible.

I'd say just try whatever it is you're wanting to do if your budget allows. Maybe run a SD rear til u figure out how to get your axle swapped over to 8x6.5"...also, maybe poke around the offroad section, as there is a LOT of SAS conversions and questions over there. It wouldn't suprise me if this hasn't been discussed already... Just my $0.02

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #25  
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SD axles have a wider spring perch width, which means you would need the new spring perch on the cast pumpkin. Ever see steel welded to cast? Not very strong at all
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #26  
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I know this is an old thread but i'm wondering if this guy did the SA D44??? Personally I thought about doing it myself then i looked at one and seen the perch is in the cast so I'm not going to do it!
 
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