I have a 1997 F250 HD, 4WD, automatic, 7.3 diesel. The rear differential ring and pinion gears sounds like they're going out. I hear a clinking sound when I'm backing up. I've checked the U-joints and they're ok. I had my wife pull forward and back up while I watched the drive line at the pumpkin and notice is seem to slip, like it jumped a tooth. The tag on the differential has S 132 P over 4L10 10 2 7G18. I assume this is a locking 4:10?? I called my local Ford dealer and was told the ring and pinion gears are obsolete. Anybody replaced these? Or found parts? I have a couple emails sent to some web sites, but no response yet.

 

I think its called randys ring and pinion, they handle parts. Shouldn't be that hard to find a ring and pinion, just a sterling 10.25 gear set. I'm not sure on your diff. tag.

 

I dont know what ur gears are but thiS link should help you. it has a link inside of it that if u put ur vin into it will will tell u everything about ur truck. kinda of over kill for finding just ur gears and diff type but its all i got for now https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-decoder.html

 

Check EBAY. do a search on "ring pinion sterling". You will usually find two different grades. The Yukon Gear ones are a little more expensive but are supposed to be stronger & quieter.

 

I'd pop the cover before buying anything.

 

Yup pop the cover first. May be just bearings.
I have an entire axle just like yours for sale but shipping to Hawaii would be incredible.
Bearings would be a good find.
Make sure and look at how the teeth mesh and wear together.

 

Thanks guys. I've pulled the rear cover off and everything looks fine. No metal or pieces laying in the bottom. The gear teeth are all intact and don't look to be excessively worn. There is just a little play between the ring and pinion gears. The pinion does not move around in the housing, so I believe the bearings are ok. When I turn the tire the othe side turns the same way. It's very hard to turn them the opposite directions, so it is locking up (?). I notice the tires will turn in the forward direction, but turning them backwards is a bit harder. The automatic trans is in neutral. All u-joints ok. Pulled my drums and breaks look fine. Could they chatter while back up? Any thoughts on anything else?

 

How much play is there in the gears? It's called backlash and there should be .008-.015 of an inch. There are You-Tube videos on how to measure it. Also, try putting the transfer case in neutral and see if it's easier to turn backwards.

 

There's too much play in the gears by what you say there should be. And I'm getting a shimmy at low speed if I have a trailer on. The gears looked ok physically, all the teeth where polished mirror finish. Is it possible to just re-shim the pinion to get the tolerance back? Or is this just a waist of time? Could the plates in the locking differential be going away? Should I replace it also just to be safe. And what gear oil do you guys recommend for these rear ends? Thanks again for the help.

 

OK, I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, and perhaps I am. I thought I had checked my U-joint, you know, grabbing the drive shaft and yanking it in all directions to see if there's any play, and I didn't feel or see any. This is the U-joint at the differential. Well, it blew up on me today. I checked the play in the pinion by rotating it back and forth, and maybe there's a one degree play in it. I don't have a caliper as yet so I didn't check the play when the cover was off. This is actually the third U-joint in five years that's worn out. The truck does have three inch lift blocks between the springs and axle in the back and one inch blocks in front. The angle of the drive line doesn't look too excessive, but I'm no expert. Could a worn ring and pinion gear cause the U-joint to wear out? Or to much of an angle between the drive line and flange?

 

Just a guess but I would say your ring and pinion are OK. If it slips in reverse your done it's not going work going forward and you said it looks good. If it was bad enough to slip in reverse you would have said it looks like toast. If your u-joint went out today I would guess that was your problem. A three inch lift in the rear would differently contribute to the short u-joint life. You need to check your driveline to pinion angle. You may need shim your rearend to get a better angle. I don't have the angle you need to achieve either some will chime in or I will find the angle and post it later.

Tim

 

Thanks Tim. The lifts are wedge shaped, the shorter end is to the front and measures 3 1/8", the back end measures 3 5/8", so it tips the differential up in the front. These were on the truck when I bought it. The front lift does through my steering wheel off center. I'll be getting a new U-joint tomorrow and putting it on and will see what happens.

 

I couldn't find what I was looking for this should help.

How To Set Pinion Angle

 

That's an interesting article. When I put the drive line back in I'll be sure to check what angle my truck has. What I'm getting from it is that the angle is anywhere between 2 and 7 degrees??? (6-7 for leaf springs) Different folks have different opinions. Anyone know what a stock PSD has? Mine's an extended cab and has a carrier bearing, so there's three U-joints.

 

I don't know what our trucks should have but my 1969 Bronco is at 2.5 degrees and I don't have any vibration. It was much steeper like seven degrees and it did vibrate. You know what they said lot of opinions but I would think around 2 to 3 degrees would be about right. I went Back and looked what they said and I think 6 to 7 degrees is to much angle.